Garden chrysanthemum

The chrysanthemum plant (Chrysanthemum) is a representative of the Astrov family. This genus includes almost 30 species, among which there are both annual species and perennials. The name of the flower comes from the Greek language and refers to the yellow color of the inflorescences of most of the chrysanthemum species. Translated, it means "blossoming with gold."

Although chrysanthemums can grow in different parts of the Northern Hemisphere, they are most often found in Asian countries. It is known that the inhabitants of China have known this flower for more than 1.5 thousand years, mentions of it are found in the writings of Confucius. It is China that is considered the birthplace of chrysanthemums. The plant received truly royal status in another Asian country - Japan. There, the image of a chrysanthemum became a symbol of the imperial family and to this day is considered the unofficial emblem of the country, sometimes used as a state one. You can even see the symbolic image of a chrysanthemum on Japanese passports. There is also a holiday dedicated to this flower in the country.

The rich history of chrysanthemums also includes many beliefs associated with the flower. Chinese wisdom says that chrysanthemum bushes help protect against negative energies and give the owner hope, even in difficult times. The flower is associated with longevity, and is also widely used in oriental medicine and cooking. Chrysanthemum petals contain many essential oils and valuable minerals. In dried form, they, like the flowers themselves, are added to tea. This addition gives the drink a special aroma and expands its taste. Chrysanthemum tea is considered tonic and helps to normalize the nervous system.

In European states, chrysanthemum appeared only in the 18th century, and became widespread only a hundred years later. Today, this flower has several hundred decorative varieties, the list of which is still being replenished. The most widespread in horticulture is the garden chrysanthemum. It is believed that this species was formed by crossing the Chinese large-flowered and Japanese (according to other versions - Indian) small-flowered chrysanthemums.

Chrysanthemum description

The genus of chrysanthemums includes annual and perennial grasses or small shrubs. Their roots have a ramified structure and do not extend into the depths, but parallel to the ground. Shoots can be naked or pubescent. Some species form an almost non-branching stem, while others are capable of forming highly branched globular bushes. The sizes of the bushes range from the miniature 15 cm to the more impressive 1.5 m.Simple foliage also sometimes has pubescence. Leaf blades can be of various sizes and shapes: dissected structure, notches or notches. The color of the leaves includes various shades of green. They also have a peculiar smell reminiscent of wormwood. It is he who helps to distinguish chrysanthemum from other flowers.

Inflorescences are baskets, sometimes very large in size. The basket is made up of tubular flowers and ligulate flowers arranged in one row. Most hybrids have several rows of reed flowers at once, forming double inflorescences. Chrysanthemum coloring is represented by a huge palette of colors and shades. It includes tones of orange and yellow, lilac, pink, purple and red, white and even green. There are varieties with two-color flowers, as well as with multi-colored "petals".

The flowering period of chrysanthemum falls in the fall, allowing the plant to be used to decorate the garden at a time when most of the plantings have already faded. After flowering, fruits are formed - achenes. Usually with their help annual or small-flowered bushes are propagated.

In culture, the most widespread is garden chrysanthemum, also called mulberry or Chinese. This group includes hybrid plants. Small-flowered chrysanthemums, known as Korean and not distinguished as an independent species, are also referred to garden chrysanthemums. Their bushes are considered more frost-resistant and unpretentious.

By combining different types and varieties of chrysanthemums, you can create a beautiful flower bed that will bloom from July until late autumn. Due to the wide variety of shapes and sizes of bushes, chrysanthemums can be used to decorate any tier of a group flower garden.

Brief rules for growing chrysanthemums

The table shows brief rules for growing chrysanthemums in the open field.

Growing chrysanthemums from seeds

Sowing seeds in the ground

Despite the fact that the vegetative method of propagation of bushes is considered simpler and faster, chrysanthemums are often grown from seeds. Usually, sowing is resorted to when breeding annual species, as well as some perennials (for example, Korean chrysanthemums).

After all frosts have passed, holes are made on the planting bed at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other. They are watered with lukewarm water, and then placed in each hole with 2-3 seeds. From above they are lightly sprinkled with earth and covered with a film. This allows you to create greenhouse conditions for seedlings. With the appearance of sprouts, the film must be removed, and the earth in the garden must be carefully loosened. 1.5 weeks after germination, the crops are fertilized with a weak solution of a complex mineral composition.

When the size of the seedlings reaches 7-10 cm, they are thinned out, leaving the largest and strongest sprout in each hole. By this time, the seedlings should already have 3-4 full leaves.The seedlings remaining after thinning can be transplanted to another bed. When grown by seed, annual species will begin to bloom in late summer. For earlier production of flowers, you can resort to the seedling method.

Sowing seedlings

Chrysanthemums are sown on seedlings using low containers with soil containing peat, humus and greenhouse soil in equal proportions. Store-bought flower primers are also suitable. Before planting, the soil must be sieved and disinfected, for example, by calcining it in an oven at a temperature of about 120 degrees.

A drainage layer is laid at the bottom of the planting container, and prepared soil is poured onto it. On it, the seed is superficially distributed. Seeds of perennials are only slightly pressed to the ground, without sprinkling. Annual species can be lightly covered with soil - the layer thickness should be no more than 0.5 cm. Crops are moistened with a spray bottle using lukewarm water, and covered with glass on top.

The container should be kept in a warm place, periodically checking the moisture content of the soil and, if necessary, spraying it again. If all conditions are met, seedlings appear within a couple of weeks. After the seeds germinate, the box is placed in a lighter place. The shelter should be removed gradually - for several hours a day, allowing the seedlings to get used to the changing conditions of detention.

If the seedlings have sprouted too densely, they should be cut down. Grown up shoots with 2-4 true leaves are distributed in separate cups filled with soil of the same composition. The transplant is carried out carefully, trying not to injure the roots of the seedlings. To do this, before a dive, the ground in a common tank is well watered. The picking process also allows you to reject weak or painful shoots. To improve survival rate, seedlings can be sprayed with Epin or another growth stimulant.

Seedling care

The cut seedlings of chrysanthemums are moved to a cool place, where they keep about 16-18 degrees. It should be well lit. Watering is carried out less often - only if necessary. In this case, fertilizing with mineral compositions should be regular: they are carried out every 2 weeks. If the seedlings lack sunlight, lamps can be used. Chrysanthemum seedlings do not differ in rapid growth rates, therefore, even a couple of months after the emergence of seedlings, the bushes can be relatively small (up to 20 cm) in size.

Before planting chrysanthemum seedlings in the ground, they must be hardened. Tempering procedures should begin about a week before transferring to the street. The bushes are exposed to the air, first for 15 minutes, and then gradually increase their time outside the house.

Planting chrysanthemums in open ground

When is the best time to plant

Chrysanthemum seedlings are planted in the ground only after the heat is finally established on the street - in late spring or at the very beginning of summer. In some cases, the seedlings are transferred to the beds in the autumn, but it is important to do this at least a couple of weeks before the arrival of frost. Otherwise, the plants will not have time to take root.

Chrysanthemums need a warm and bright place to grow, as well as protection from waterlogging. Bushes do not tolerate stagnant moisture at the roots, so they are recommended to be planted in elevated places, sheltered from strong winds. The landing corner must be lit for at least 5 hours per day. It is good if the sun hits the bushes not at noon, but in the morning or evening hours. Low-light areas can significantly affect flowering.

Bushes will grow best on loamy soil that has a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. If the land on the site is too heavy or sandy and very light, organic fertilizers can be added to it. But instead of fresh manure in this case, humus or vermicompost should be used. All additives are added to the soil right before planting seedlings.But it should be remembered that a large number of nutritional supplements can enhance foliage growth at the expense of future flowering.

Landing rules

Cloudy weather or even rain is best suited for transferring seedlings to a permanent place. The more moisture there is in the soil, the faster the plants will take root, moreover, in such weather, the bright sun will not further weaken the planting. The bushes are placed in separate holes or in a pre-dug trench, retreating from each plant about 30-50 cm. The distance depends on how much a particular flower variety grows. You should not thicken the planting.

The site for planting chrysanthemums must have a drainage layer. The seedlings are moved into the ground, trying not to bury them too much. Large varieties can be placed directly next to the supports. To speed up adaptation in a new place, you can water the seedlings with Kornevin's solution (1 g of the product per 1 liter of water). After transplanting and watering, the bushes are pinched for better tillering, and then the flower bed is covered with a suitable covering material. Greenhouse conditions during this period will contribute to the rooting of seedlings and their more active development. As soon as the seedlings take root, the shelter can be removed.

Caring for garden chrysanthemums

Growing chrysanthemums does not require special knowledge, although experienced gardeners have their own subtleties of caring for a flower. The most favorable place for growth and abundant flowering will be a place where there is enough sunlight and open space, as well as good fertile soil. Chrysanthemums grow poorly in dark, cool and damp places.

Tall bushes often need reliable support. To do this, pegs are placed next to the plantings, or they are surrounded by wire or mesh structures. They will not let the bushes fall apart. Fading baskets are recommended to be removed. This will help prolong flowering.

Watering

The lack of moisture significantly affects the decorativeness of the plantings. The shoots of such chrysanthemums begin to grow stiff, and the flowers become less spectacular. To avoid this, the bushes should be watered abundantly enough. For irrigation, use soft rain or well-settled water. It is recommended to add 2 drops of ammonia to the latter. The watering can is directed directly under the roots so that drops do not fall on the foliage. After watering, the area near the bushes is loosened and weeds are removed. For ease of care, after transplanting the bushes into the ground, the garden bed with them should be mulched.

The amount of watering can be calculated based on the structure of the flower leaves. So varieties with small and hard foliage require less moisture than bushes with soft and pleasant to the touch leaves. The latter evaporate much more moisture. But overflow should not be allowed - because of it, the bushes can shed their buds.

During periods of cold snaps, as well as after the completion of flowering, the bushes require much less moisture. An excess of water in the ground during such a period can lead to the development of diseases.

Top dressing

For normal growth and development, chrysanthemums require periodic feeding. During the season, they are carried out about 3 times, alternating organic compositions with mineral ones. At the beginning of growth, plantings will require nitrogen - ammonia is ideal. It will allow the bushes to form a sufficient number of shoots. For more abundant and prolonged flowering during budding, chrysanthemums are fertilized with compounds including potassium, phosphorus and magnesium. You can use humates or complex formulations for flowering species.

All fertilizers are applied only in liquid form, feeding the plants a day after precipitation or watering. From organic flower products, bird droppings or rotted mullein are suitable. For the first time, feeding is carried out within 1.5-2 months after transplanting into the ground. Excess fertilization can be harmful to plants, so it is best to under-feed the flowers a little.

Pinching and trimming

One of the ways to get lush and neat bushes is to regularly pinch them.It is carried out when the bushes transferred to the ground have time to take root and at least 8 true leaves are formed in them. Then the pinching is carried out when the side shoots are formed at the bush, and their size reaches about 10 cm.This will allow to get neat and dense plants with a spherical crown by the end of the season. It is important to pinch in a timely manner: a couple of months before flowering.

Pruning large-flowered chrysanthemums is done differently. In such bushes, on the contrary, the lateral shoots are removed, trying to leave only the largest and strongest branches. So the inflorescences blooming on them will be larger and more beautiful. The shoots remaining from pruning can be tried as cuttings.

Transfer

Chrysanthemums cannot grow in one place for more than 3 years. As a rule, after this period, the bushes will begin to lose their visual appeal, and also get sick more often. To prevent chrysanthemum flowers from becoming smaller, in the spring such bushes are transplanted to a new place.

Most often, the transplantation procedure is combined with division, which makes it possible to obtain new copies of chrysanthemums. The bush is pulled out of the ground, trying not to touch its roots, and then they are cleaned of soil residues. The plant is divided into several parts so that each has its own roots and shoots. Separation is carried out with a sharp instrument. Then the resulting cuttings are planted in a bright corner of the garden according to the same principle as seedlings.

Chrysanthemums in winter

To improve the frost resistance of plantings, at the beginning of autumn, a third feeding is carried out, again treating the chrysanthemums with phosphorus and potassium. With the onset of the first frost, perennials remaining in the soil (especially small-flowered varieties) are cut to a height of 10-15 cm.After that, the bushes are spudded, and then the garden bed is covered with a layer of dry foliage 30-40 cm thick.If winter is expected to be especially harsh or with little snow , spruce branches or brushwood are placed on top of the foliage. It is undesirable to use dense covering material: due to the lack of air exchange, the bushes can vanish.

Preparing for winter

Unlike the more winter-hardy Korean chrysanthemums, which can hibernate in the open field, tall large-flowered varieties are much more sensitive to a strong drop in temperature. The exception is Russian hybrid varieties specially designed for growing in the middle lane. Other plants do not winter in such latitudes, but you can try to save them until next year.

The first way is to transfer the bushes to storage in an unheated, but warm enough room. Chrysanthemums are dug up together with a soil clod and transplanted into a wooden container. It is brought into a bright room, where it stays at about 2-6 degrees, and the humidity is about 80%. A small number of bushes can be distributed in separate boxes. The moisture content of the soil in them must be monitored, maintaining the soil in a slightly moist state.

If there is no light and cool room, the bushes can be stored in the cellar, where they keep about 0-4 degrees. They are laid tightly on the earthen floor, right with soil lumps.

Another way is to create a shelter for flowers right outside. In the fall, a trench is dug in the garden half a meter deep, the width is calculated from the number of plants. Bushes are transferred to it, and the areas between them are filled with soil. Until the frost comes, the trench is not closed. This prevents the development of fungal and viral infections. After frost, wooden boards or boards, slate or any other sufficiently strong material are laid on top of the trench. On top of such a "roof" a layer of foliage is poured, and on top it is covered with a layer of earth. A covering material is placed on top of it, securely fixing it so that the canvas is not blown away by the wind. The main disadvantages of this method are laboriousness and the inability to monitor the condition of the bushes.

In addition to the large-flowered thermophilic varieties growing in the ground, greenhouse specimens, hybrids bred in other countries, as well as new varieties, the winter hardiness of which have not been established, should also be dug.

Breeding methods for chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums can be propagated in several ways: by cuttings, seeds, by dividing the bush.

Reproduction of chrysanthemum by cuttings

Perennial chrysanthemum species are often propagated by cuttings. This allows you to keep all the varietal characteristics of the plant. Cuttings are harvested in the spring, when it is warm enough outside (20-26 degrees), and the frost has already passed. For this, shoots are chosen that extend directly from the root, and sometimes lateral branches. Cuttings are cut with a clean instrument.

The size of the cutting should be about 6.5 cm. It is cut just above the leaf bud. The lower cut of the cutting must be treated with a rooting stimulator. Then it is placed in a container with moist nutrient soil. The segment is placed at a slight slope, and from above it is covered with a layer of sand up to 2 cm thick so that the buried part of the cutting is in the sand, and not in the substrate. For rooting, seedlings are exposed in a bright place, where they keep about 15-18 degrees. The soil in the container must remain moist at all times. If these conditions are met, the roots should form within 2-3 weeks. After that, the cuttings can be transplanted into open ground.

It is believed that small-flowered varieties of chrysanthemums take root more quickly. This process takes the longest for bushes with large and fleshy branches.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by dividing the bush is carried out in the spring. To do this, it is necessary to separate a small part of the plant, on which there will be several shoots, and transplant it to another place.

Diseases and pests of chrysanthemums

Diseases

Thickened plantings and improper care of chrysanthemums can lead to the development of common fungal diseases:

• Verticillary wilting - the fungus affects the roots of the plant, leading to yellowing and death of leaf plates. The disease often develops due to long cultivation in one place, especially on light soils.
• Powdery mildew - diseased bushes are covered with a whitish bloom. The disease manifests itself when a combination of heat with high humidity, an excess of nitrogen and a lack of potassium.
• Rust - chlorotic areas appear on the aerial parts of the plant, gradually acquiring a brown color. The foliage turns yellow and the shoots become thinner. Most often, the disease affects low-growing varieties of flowers during periods of high humidity.
• Septoria - spots appear on the lower foliage of the bush, gradually covering the leaves completely and moving towards the upper part of the bush. Develops due to high humidity and low light.
• Gray rot - manifests itself in the form of blurry brown spots, over time, covered with a fluff, provoking decay. High humidity contributes to the spread of the disease, most often it affects weakened bushes.

Copper fungicides are used against fungal diseases. So, rust can be dealt with with colloidal sulfur and an emulsion that includes copper and soap. Bordeaux mixture will help from gray rot and powdery mildew, and copper oxychloride will help from septoria.

Preventing these diseases can be easier than fighting them. Flowers must have good immunity to resist infections. To do this, it is important to follow all the rules for caring for plantings, try not to thicken them, and also regularly inspect them in order to notice the signs of the disease in a timely manner.

Chrysanthemums can also be affected by viral diseases. Among them:

• Aspermia - the foliage of the plant acquires a speckled color, and the flowers are deformed.
• Dwarfism - bushes lag behind in development from the rest, and bloom ahead of schedule.
• Mosaic - a mosaic pattern appears on the foliage.

A remedy for viral diseases has not yet been found, so such plants will have to be removed from the site in order to prevent infection of the rest. To prevent the appearance of viruses, you should timely deal with the pests that appear on the bushes that carry them. Viruses can also be accidentally introduced using a dirty tool while cutting or dividing a bush. It is important to always sterilize the knife or pruner before the procedure.

Pests

The main pest of chrysanthemums is a nematode. When they appear, mosaic spots appear on the leaves, the color of which gradually darkens. It is impossible to remove this pest, therefore it is important to prevent its appearance. When planting or replanting bushes in autumn, you should treat them with Phosphamide, and then spray the adjacent soil with Formalin. If the bushes have already become infected, they will have to be destroyed.

Another common pest is aphids. This insect feeds on chrysanthemum sap, living on the back of foliage and buds. The presence of aphids leads to a deterioration in flowering, as well as a decrease in the rate of development of the bush. A small number of insects can simply be removed from the bushes by hand, removing them along with the foliage. A large number of pests are destroyed with Aktara or Aktellik by adding laundry soap to the spray solution.

Chrysanthemum juice can also feed on meadow bugs. The foliage because of them becomes spotty, and then dies off, and the buds stop opening. Against bedbugs, the bush can be treated with baby shampoo (1 tsp per bucket of water). Phosphamide also helps to prevent the appearance of such pests.

Sometimes a spider mite settles on the bushes. He also eats juice. The presence of a pest is signaled by a characteristic cobweb on the foliage of the plant. The leaves themselves begin to turn brown and fall off. Acaricidal preparations help against the tick.

Chrysanthemums are often harmed by gastropods - snails and slugs. They eat flowers and foliage of plantings. Slugs can serve as an important component of the garden ecosystem, so it is recommended that they simply be deflected from the flower beds. Next to the chrysanthemums, you can install bumpers, plant nearby plants that snails do not like, or cover the ground next to flowers with small eggshells. If there are too many slugs, they can be caught by placing traps near the garden bed - bowls of beer.

Types and varieties of chrysanthemums with photos and names

There are many conditional classifications of numerous varieties and varieties of chrysanthemums. In each country, the division into groups can be different - a single official system has not yet been invented. A number of classifications are widely used by professionals, but are too complex for other gardeners. In amateur gardening, varieties are most often subdivided into the following groups:

Classification by flower size and height

Chrysanthemum large-flowered

Forms large bushes up to 1.2 m high. Large baskets with a diameter of 10 to 25 cm are located on them. Typically, such chrysanthemums are used for cutting. These varieties are very decorative, but they are often thermophilic and cannot overwinter in the ground. But modern breeding already allows breeding varieties that are more resistant to cold weather. Among them:

• Anastasia - bushes 80 cm to 1 m high, flowering starts late - in October. The inflorescences have needle-like ligulate flowers of a delicate green hue. With sufficient cover, it can overwinter in the ground.
• Zembla Lilak - bushes less than a meter high. Terry inflorescences are made up of wide reed flowers, painted in shades of pink-lilac. Plants can overwinter in the ground. This variety also has forms suitable for pot cultivation.
• Tom Pierce - half-meter bushes have a spectacular two-tone color of flowers. On the outside, the petals are colored red, and on the inside, orange. The diameter of the basket reaches 22 cm. It blooms from September.

Chrysanthemum mid-flowered

This group is also called "decorative".Bushes and baskets are medium in size. The height of the plants reaches from 30 to 70 cm. The sizes of the inflorescences vary from 10 to 18 cm. These varieties can be grown both in the garden and in portable pots or containers. The flowers can also be used for cutting. Among the most winter-hardy varieties of this group:

• Splashes of champagne - forms bushes up to 90 cm tall, inflorescences include needle-like petals. Their diameter reaches 10 cm, the color is pale pink, with a yellow tint as it approaches the middle. There is a yellow-flowered version of this chrysanthemum. The flowering period lasts from October to cold weather. Bushes tolerate winter well.
• The Golden Fleece - has bushes up to 60 cm tall. The baskets are colored yellow with an orange tint. Flowers appear at the end of September. The variety is considered frost-resistant.
• Pink daisy - variety with dark pink petals and a noticeable yellow center. The diameter of the semi-double inflorescence is about 7 cm, the size of the bushes reaches 90 cm. Flowering starts in September and continues until frost.

Small-flowered chrysanthemum, or Korean

This group of chrysanthemums is also known as "oak" due to the characteristic shape of the foliage. The size of the bushes can be quite miniature - from 25 cm or more - up to 1.2 m. During the flowering period, a large number of small (2-10 cm) simple or terry baskets of various colors are formed on them. The flowers have a characteristic wormwood aroma. Such chrysanthemums are considered one of the most unpretentious and cold-resistant, and also do not pose any particular problems during reproduction. In one place, the bushes can grow up to 4 years. Inflorescences appear in September and last until frost. Popular varieties:

• Multiflora - one of the new varieties that managed to win the interest of flower growers. Such plants can be planted both in gardens and in mobile containers. Flowering can begin as early as August. The flowers are spherical and of various colors.
• Slavyanochka - forms bushes up to 60 cm tall, decorated with pale pink inflorescences with a brighter center. Flowers appear in the last weeks of September.
• Etna - the size of the bushes reaches 80 cm. The inflorescences are semi-double, needle-like, about 8 cm in diameter, appear in October. Their color is pink-lilac.

Classification by the shape of inflorescences

Simple varieties:

• Non-double - with single-row reed flowers (Ben Dixon, Pat Joyce);
• Semi-double - with several rows of reed flowers (Amazon, Baltika, Natasha);
• Anemonic - with a raised center (Andre Rose, Lady's Beauty, Vivienne).

Terry varieties:

• Spoon-shaped - each petal is rolled up like a spoon (Sutinki; Smile with lilac inflorescences)
• Lucid (or needle-like) - ligulate flowers of such baskets are rolled up in a tube (Magdalena, Mirage, Pietro, Tokyo);
• Bent - the petals of such inflorescences are slightly bent downward (Max Riley, Regalia, Tracy Weller);
• Spider-like - with especially long and thin ligulate flowers, slightly curled at the ends (Spring dawn on the Su-ti dam with pink flowers, Grace, combining several shades);
• Flat - in structure they resemble daisies, are considered unpretentious (Wally Roof, Swan Song);
• Pompom - with small inflorescences of the correct shape (Bob, Denise, Fairy);
• Hemispherical - numerous petals do not overlap the center of the basket, varieties are quite cold-resistant (Gazella, Zlata Praga, Trezor);
• Spherical - have the shape of a ball or cone. Usually they have a weak frost resistance and are very fond of bright places (Arctic, Broadway, Krepysh).
• Bristly - with thin and often curved petals.

Flowering classification

Early flowering:

• Deliana - blooms in September, white inflorescences with needle-like petals. The diameter of the basket is about 16 cm.
• Zembla Yellow - flowers appear in early autumn. Inflorescences are large, spherical, up to 15 cm wide. Their color is yellow.
• Hands - in structure, the inflorescences are similar to chamomile, but have a delicate lilac color, increasing towards the center, and a white border.Flowering begins in September.

Average flowering time:

• Anastasia Lilak - with lilac needle-shaped baskets up to 20 cm wide, which appear in October.
• Orange - bright yellow-orange inflorescences up to 20 cm in diameter. Flowering begins in October.
• Froggy - medium-sized spherical lemon-green baskets appear in October.

Late flowering:

• Avignon - forms pinkish inflorescences-balls up to 20 cm in diameter. Blooms in November.
• Larissa - white-yellow inflorescences that appear in November.
• Rivardi - has inflorescences in the form of yellow balls up to 20 cm in diameter. Blooms from November.

Perennial and annual species

All the varieties of chrysanthemums described above are considered perennial. Popular annual species include:

Chrysanthemum keeled (Chrysanthemum carinatum), or tricolor

The species forms branching bushes up to 70 cm tall. Chrysanthemum carinatum has fleshy shoots. They have double-pinnate leaves. The inflorescences reach up to 7 cm in diameter and can have a different number of reed flowers. The middle flowers are burgundy, yellow or reddish-white.

• Cockard - forms simple white baskets with a carmine base. Flowering lasts all summer.
• Nordstein - large white baskets with a red-yellow center.
• Flammenstahl - red flowers with a yellow-brown center.

Field chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum segetum), or sowing

According to the modern classification, this chrysanthemum, as well as keeled chrysanthemum, belongs to the genus Goldflower, belonging to the same family. The species is distinguished by branched bushes up to 60 cm tall. The lower foliage of Chrysanthemum segetum has a feathery structure, and the upper foliage is supplemented with denticles. The flowers resemble chamomile and are up to 5 cm in diameter. The main varieties are:

• Crown chrysanthemum - the size of the bush can be up to 1 m, on the stems there are many pinnately-divided leaves, although the plant also has oblong toothed plates. Inflorescences reach up to 3 cm, "petals" can be white or yellow, and tubular flowers are yellow-green in color.
• Tetra comets - large semi-double inflorescences have a different color.
• Helios - the baskets are painted golden yellow.
• Stern des Orients - inflorescences have a light yellow color and a dark center.