Weigela is an ornamental plant from the Honeysuckle family. This genus includes 15 species. All of them are shrubs that shed their foliage for the winter. In nature, they can be found in the southeast of Asia. They also live on the island of Java. Some species of weigela also grow in the Far Eastern regions.
Weigela's name comes from the surname of the botanist and pharmacologist K.E. von Weigel. Of the 15 plant species, about 7-10 are found in culture. Quite a lot of spectacular varieties were obtained on their basis. The beauty of the weigela is combined with its relative unpretentiousness and ease of reproduction.
Described by weigels
Weigels are moisture-loving and shade-tolerant shrubs. They form straight shoots with petiolate leaves, which have an opposite arrangement. The leaf blades have a serrated or serrated edge. Loose inflorescences include funnel-shaped or bell-shaped flowers. Sometimes the flowers can be arranged singly. Their size is about 5 cm, and the color is cream, yellow, white, pink or carmine. Often, as the flower develops, its initially light color becomes more intense. Due to the fact that the flowers do not bloom at the same time, both light and bright flowers can be on the same plant. After flowering is complete, bivalve fruits are tied on the bush in the form of bolls filled with tiny seeds.
Brief rules for growing weigela
The table shows brief rules for growing weigela in the open field.
Landing | Weigels usually start planting in the spring. You need to try to complete all the procedures before the buds begin to swell in the bush. |
The soil | Saplings are planted in loose clay or loamy soil. Her reaction can be both slightly alkaline and neutral. |
Lighting level | Best of all, the bush will be able to develop on the south side. Bright light will contribute to the beauty and abundance of the flowering, as well as the saturation of the color of the flowers. |
Watering mode | Bushes will need watering only during periods of severe drought. Watering should be abundant. |
Top dressing | Weigels carry out top dressing of bushes regularly. Any mixture containing potassium and phosphorus and nitrogen will do. |
Bloom | Many species of weigela bloom twice a year. The first, the most abundant wave, begins in mid-May. The second wave occurs in August and continues until early autumn. |
Reproduction | Cuttings, seeds, layering. |
Pests | Aphids, caterpillars, spider mites, thrips, bears, May beetle larvae. |
Diseases | Gray rot, spotting, rust. |
Planting weigels in open ground
The best time to plant
Weigels usually start planting in the spring, trying to complete all the work on time. You need to try to complete all the procedures before the buds begin to swell in the bush. But at the same time, the earth should already warm up enough: only in this case the bush will root in the best way. If you start planting weigela in the autumn, the bush will not have time to take root and will die.
To place the weigel, they choose an elevated place, protected from the cold wind, otherwise frequent drafts and ice gusts will lead to dropping of buds and flowers. Best of all, the bush will be able to develop from the south side of any structure or fence. Bright light will contribute to the beauty and abundance of the flowering, as well as the saturation of the color of the flowers. Bushes should not be placed in the lowlands - in this case, the risk of planting freezing increases.
For planting in the garden, only plants not younger than 3 years old are used. Saplings are planted in loose clay or loamy soil. Her reaction can be both slightly alkaline and neutral. The only exception is the Middendorf species, which can grow in slightly acidic soil with a high peat content.
If the weigela bush was purchased in the autumn, you can save it until spring. The first way is to dig in the seedling in the garden, placing it at an angle. This will allow you to cover the branches of the plant with earth, and in the spring, excavate and transplant the bush as expected. If this method is not suitable, you can plant the seedling in a suitable container and keep it at home. The bush in the container is watered moderately. After the foliage has fallen off, it is transferred to a cool (no more than 6 degrees) place. Content is acceptable even at low negative temperatures. During this period, the bush is watered only occasionally, trying to keep the earth from drying out. Closer to spring, after swelling of the buds, the plant is returned to light and watered more often. By April, the plant can be fed, and by the end of May, it can be transplanted into the garden.
Landing features
The depth of the hole for planting a weigela bush should be about 40 cm.In poor soil, its size should be increased. In this case, not only a drainage layer (about 15 cm) will be laid on the bottom of the pit, but also a layer of fertile soil. The drainage can be brick debris, fine gravel, or sand. Compost can be used as a nutrient layer by adding nitrophoska to it (for 1.5 buckets about 100 g). To facilitate the adaptation of the plant to a new place, the roots of the seedling can be treated with rooting stimulants.
The distance between the bushes directly depends on their size. Instances of medium-sized varieties, whose height does not exceed 1 m, can be placed at a distance of about 80 cm from each other. If adult plants can grow up to 2.5 m, the distance between them should be at least 1.5-2 m.
During planting, the roots of the seedling must be straightened. They are gradually and carefully sprinkled with earth and lightly tamped to avoid voids. The root collar of the bush can be buried by only 1-2 cm. So after watering and shrinking the earth, it should be at ground level. Watering is carried out after transplanting, and then the area around the bush is mulched.
Sometimes, during planting, the weigela shoots of the bush are shortened by half. If the plant is already in bloom, no pruning should be done. The first couple of weeks after transplanting, it is advisable to shade the bushes.
Weigela care in the garden
Caring for a weigela is not a big deal, even for a novice florist. But in order for the plant to be decorative and bloom profusely, it should not be left completely unattended. Bushes will need watering only during periods of severe drought. Watering should be abundant, although if the bush is mulched, their number can be reduced. After flowering, reduce watering, and do not forget that weigela does not like stagnant water at the roots.
The area next to the bush must be periodically cleaned of weeds, and also loosened.The depth of loosening should not exceed half of the shovel bayonet: the weigel root system is located close to the surface of the earth.
Top dressing
Weigels carry out top dressing of bushes regularly. If, before planting, nutrients (compost, nitrophoska) were added to the ground, you can forget about feeding for about 2 years: these substances will be enough for the plant for about this period. Starting from the 3rd year, in the spring they begin to feed the bush with mineral compounds. Any mixture containing potassium and phosphorus and nitrogen will do.
Starting from the end of spring, during the period of bud formation, the bushes are fed again using formulations without nitrogen (superphosphate, potassium sulfate, etc.). This will allow the weigela to bloom longer and more luxuriantly, and will also help strengthen its shoots. The last top dressing of the season is carried out in the fall, digging up the soil. Wood ash is introduced into it (about 200 g per 1 sq. M) or special fertilizers designed for autumn feeding. They are brought in according to the instructions.
Pruning
Weigela requires periodic pruning to maintain health. Young bushes are pruned only for sanitary purposes: at the very beginning of spring, damaged or diseased shoots are removed from them, as well as those that contribute to the thickening of the bush.
Adult specimens will need shaping. Such pruning is carried out after the end of spring flowering, around the middle of summer. The procedure must be completed before fresh shoots begin to appear on the bush. It is on these branches that flowers will reappear at the end of summer, therefore, if they did not have time to cut the bush at the right time, they do not touch it until next year.
Older shrubs are renewed every 3 years, cutting off all shoots from them that are more than 3 years old. The remaining shoots are cut by a third. In some cases, all branches are cut off from weigels, but even after deep pruning, the bush is restored quite quickly.
If the weigela branches are frozen, they are cut off at a level of 10 cm. Living buds at the roots can give fresh shoots. It is recommended to process the cut sites with garden varnish.
Bloom
Many species of weigela bloom twice a year. During these periods, the shrub is covered with elegant flowers. The first, the most abundant wave, begins in mid-May. Its duration is about a month. Flowers during this period are formed on last year's branches. The second wave occurs in August and continues until early autumn. This time, weigela blooms less luxuriantly, but the buds are already forming on fresh shoots of the current season.
Weigela does not bloom solely due to mistakes in care - the wrong planting site, lack of fertilizing or pest infestation.
Weigela after flowering
Seed collection
Weigela seeds ripen by the beginning of autumn, but they should be harvested only in October, when the capsules have already begun to crack. To prevent the seeds from spilling onto the ground, you can pre-wrap the required number of boxes in a thin cloth and fix it on a branch. After ripening, the boxes are cut off and brought into the room. There they are taken out of fabric bags and the ripe seeds are poured onto paper. After allowing the seeds to dry, they are poured into paper bags, signing on them the characteristics of the bush, as well as the date of collection. In this form, the seeds can be stored in a dry, dark place until spring. Their germination capacity will persist only for the first couple of years. Plants obtained from such seed may not inherit the parental traits.
Wintering period
By the beginning of November, when leaves fly around from the bushes, the weigel's near-stem area is covered with soil, forming a mound up to 20 cm high. The branches of the plant are bent to the ground and securely fixed. Then the weigel must be covered with a covering material or sheets of roofing material, fixing the shelter so that the wind cannot tear it off. If you cannot bend the branches, you can cover them in an upright position. To do this, the bush is tied with a rope, trying to tighten the shoots tightly enough. The tied bush is then surrounded by a metal or plastic net.The inside of the resulting cylinder is filled with dry foliage. From above, the structure is covered with a dense layer of covering material. This procedure will also help protect the branches of the plant from deformation under a layer of snow.
The older the weigela bush, the more winter hardiness it has. In the southern regions, the plant hibernates without shelter.
Weigela breeding methods
Growing from seeds
Weigela is easily propagated by seeds, although the highest germination rate is observed only in the first year of storage. For sowing, it is not necessary to use greenhouses or the seedling method: the easiest way is to use self-sowing, which gives the main plant. In the spring, when the seeds that have fallen into the ground begin to germinate, some of the strongest shoots are left, and the rest are removed. The selected plants will need to be grown for about 2 years, in the spring they are planted in the chosen place. But the characteristics of the variety with this method of reproduction may not be preserved.
For self-sowing, you will need a shady corner of the garden. The seeds are spread superficially, lightly sprinkling them with sand, then compacted and moistened. If sowing is carried out in spring, the seedlings are covered with foil. The sprouts appear within 3 weeks. In winter, plants need to be lightly covered. Such weigels will begin to bloom only for 4-5 years. If necessary, you can grow seedlings before planting at home.
Propagation by cuttings
To avoid the loss of valuable varieties, vegetative propagation methods should be used. In this capacity, cuttings, layering, as well as young branches extending from the stump are used. As cuttings, you can use both green fresh shoots of the current year (they are cut at the very end of June), and last-season cuttings that had time to partially woody (they are cut in early spring, before the start of sap flow). Root shoots are also suitable for grafting.
The length of the segment should be about 10-15 cm. The foliage, which is located in the lower part of the segments, should be removed, and the upper plates should be shortened by about 2 times. The lower cut is kept in a root formation stimulator for several hours, and then the treated cutting is planted in a peat-sand mixture. A 4 cm layer of sand should be laid on the surface of the substrate. At the same time, the cutting itself is buried by only 1 cm. Each seedling is covered with a transparent container to create greenhouse conditions. Every day, the shelter is briefly removed to ventilate the soil and, if necessary, water it.
Once fully rooted, the plants can be transplanted into containers. When the seedlings start to sprout, they are pinched for more tillering. As part of the care, the bushes are watered and fed. You can transfer them to a permanent place for 2-3 years, when at least 3 full-fledged shoots up to 80 cm tall are formed on the plants.
Reproduction by layering
For the formation of a layer from the bush, bend a strong lower branch. In the place where it touches the ground, the bark is slightly incised. After that, the branch is fixed on the ground and covered with soil. The cuttings should be fully rooted by next spring, but replanting such a plant to its final place is necessary only when it is 3 years old.
Diseases and pests
Aphids and caterpillars can appear on the weigel, gnawing the foliage of the bush. During periods of severe drought, spider mites or thrips sometimes settle on plants, but by this time the bush usually has time to bloom. This allows you to freely use specialized or folk remedies against insects. Most insecticide preparations are based on strong chemicals, so many try to get rid of pests with more gentle methods. For example, small lesions can be treated with infusions of burning plants: wormwood, garlic, or hot pepper infusion.
If the foliage of the seedlings turns yellow and withers, underground pests may be the cause. Among them are bears and beetle larvae. Most often, such pests enter the soil in humus or compost.To destroy underground insects, the soil is spilled with a solution of Karbofos, Aktara or other similar preparations.
Weigela can suffer from gray mold, and sometimes mottling and rust. Fight fungal diseases or bacterial infections with the help of Bordeaux liquid (you can prepare it yourself by mixing copper sulfate with milk of lime). As a preventive measure, the bushes can be treated with a 3% Topsin solution during the period of leaf formation.
Types and varieties of weigela with photos and names
In middle latitudes, weigel species are most often grown, which have greater frost resistance. These include the following:
Weigela early (Weigela praecox)
Far Eastern view. Weigela praecox forms 2-meter bushes with a spherical crown. The leaves of this species are slightly pubescent. In inflorescences 2-3 flowers bloom. On the outside, they are pink in color. The flower pharynx is light yellow, and the buds are colored in shades of purple. Inflorescences are formed on fresh lateral shoots. Flowering occurs at the end of May and lasts about 2-4 weeks. This species has a variegated (variegated) shape. Such bushes have yellow specks on green leaves, which acquire a creamy shade by summer.
Weigela florida
Or blooming weigela. The species forms tall bushes up to 3 m in size. Weigela florida has pubescent shoots. On the serrated foliage, fluff is also present. On the front side of the sheet, the hairs are located along the main vein, and on the seamy side - along all the veins. The inflorescences include up to 4 flowers with a deep pink color. Flowering occurs at the very end of May, lasting about 3 weeks. Among the most popular forms of such weigela:
- Alba - dwarf weigela with white flowers that turn pink as they bloom.
- Variegata - variegated form, characterized by high frost resistance. The foliage of such bushes is small, and their pink flowers form tassel inflorescences.
- Victoria - forms 1 meter bushes with burgundy leaves and crimson flowers.
- Purple or red - forms wide bushes up to 1.5 m high. The foliage is colored reddish-brown, and pink flowers are complemented by a yellow throat. They appear in early summer. There is also the Nana Purpurea cultivar, which resembles this shape, but has a more miniature bush size.
- Pink - on the outside, the flowers have a carmine pink color, and on the inside they are almost white.
Weigela hybrid (Weigela hybrida)
This group includes hybrids obtained by crossing various weigels. It is these plants that are most often used to decorate gardens. They form sprawling shrubs with a height of about 1.5 m. Weigela hybrida is distinguished by its spectacular flowering. Its tubular flowers are collected in medium-sized and loose inflorescences or are located singly. Their color depends on the variety and is lilac, pink, reddish-purple, purple or white. Main varieties:
- Bristol Ruby Is an American variety obtained in the middle of the 20th century. The height of the bushes can be up to 3 m, but the crown width usually exceeds it. The foliage is colored bright green. The pink flowers are decorated with a ruby-red border and may have an orange center. The bush has a fast growth rate. Flowering occurs at the end of June.
- Red Prince Is another American variety with a smaller size. The height of the bushes reaches 1.5 m. Such a weigela is distinguished by drooping shoots, has green foliage and bright red flowers.
Weigela Middendorff (Weigela middendorffiana)
Forms bushes up to 1.5 m tall. The species lives in forests in the east of Eurasia. Weigela middendorffiana has upwardly directed shoots and large yellow flowers adorned with orange specks on the throat. The size of the flowers reaches 4 cm. They can form small inflorescences or bloom one at a time. Flowering occurs twice a year.
In addition to those listed in gardening, the following types of weigel can be found:
- Korean - Japanese species, the cultivated form reaches a height of about 1.5 m, flowers of pink shades change color as they develop (from fairly light to brighter).
- Maksimovich - another Japanese species, flowers are painted in a delicate yellow shade. The flowering is not too lush.
- Profusely blooming - this species lives in highlands. The height of its bushes reaches 3 m. The flowers have a bright red color, and then brighten.
- Nice - endemic species with purple-pink flowers.
- Sadovaya - forms 1 meter bushes with carmine-pink flowers. Mature bushes are more cold-hardy than young ones. There is also a white-flowered form of such a weigela.
- Japanese - Japanese mountain view up to 1 m in height. The flowers are carmine in color.