Phalaenopsis Orchid

The phalinopsis orchid (Phalaenopsis) is a flowering plant from the Orchid family. In nature, these spectacular flowers are found in the Southeast Asian states and the Philippines, and are also found on the Australian continent. Most of these plants are epiphytic and live on trees, but some species also adapt to life on rocks. The discovery of phalaenopsis belongs to the German traveler and botanist Georg Rumph. He met representatives of this genus in the Indonesian Spice Islands.

The name of the plant means "resembling a moth" - it was with tropical butterflies that the director of the Botanical Garden in Leiden, Karl Blum, compared the flowers of phalaenopsis, inventing a name for it.

The great popularity of phalaenopsis in floriculture is due not only to the beauty of these graceful orchids. Caring for the phalinopsis orchid, in comparison with other similar plants, although it requires some skills, is not very difficult.

Description of the phalaenopsis orchid

The phalaenopsis bush forms a basal rosette, which is made up of two-row long and succulent leaf blades. Flower buds are located in their axils. They begin to wake up in the same order as they appeared - the first flower stalks are formed from the most mature. Usually, at home, the shoot appears from only one such bud at a time. On the peduncle that appears from it, racemose inflorescences are located, consisting of large flowers, similar in shape to butterflies. Their color can be very diverse, including purple, white, red, pink, yellow, and even green or brown. The petals can be decorated with a pattern, while the flower lip often has a contrasting shade and stands out against their background.

In addition to flower buds, the peduncle also has buds, from which new, lateral peduncles, as well as offspring, can form. Such an orchid does not form an underground rhizome - bulbs. The dormant period in phalaenopsis is almost not pronounced, the plant rests in the intervals between the appearance of peduncles. Phalaenopsis usually forms flower stalks twice a year - in autumn and spring, but with perfect care, you can expect a third wave of flowering.

Native to the humid tropics, this orchid makes enough demands on its growing conditions. In order for the phalaenopsis flower to feel as good at home as in the forest, you will need to create a certain microclimate. Like all orchids, it has a special structure, different from most indoor plants:

• In part, a pot with a substrate is necessary for Phalaenopsis for support: its largest roots are located on the soil surface, just like leaves and shoots, they photosynthesize and need light.Such a bush is securely attached to the ground with the help of small thin roots and through them receives nutrients from the soil.
• Under natural conditions, the aerial roots of this orchid receive the necessary moisture from the air and thanks to precipitation. This is possible due to the special outer layer of such roots, which is capable of absorbing atmospheric moisture. The main nutrient for orchids is the old tree bark and the remains of plants stuck in it. In this case, the aerial roots of the flower can begin to branch out in search of new feeding points. At home, they must be monitored, otherwise the phalaenopsis roots are able to get into a pot standing nearby.

By the way, the phalinopsis orchid has several varieties, but the most popular among them are hybrid phalaenopsis, Luddemana, pink and pleasant. All of them, with proper care, bloom profusely for a long time.

Brief rules for growing phalinopsis orchids

The table shows brief rules for caring for a phalinopsis orchid at home.

Caring for the phalaenopsis orchid at home

In order for the home phalaenopsis orchid to feel good and bloom regularly, you will need to create an optimal watering and feeding regime for the flower, and provide a suitable temperature. The plant will also need insect protection and disease prevention. The climate of your apartment plays an important role in caring for phalaenopsis.

Lighting

Phalaenopsis prefers moderately bright and diffused lighting, so the best corners for it are the windows of the east and northeast, as well as the west. If the only place for the orchid is a strongly lit south window, place the container with the flower a little further from the light, and hang a light tulle on the window to help shade.

The bright direct rays of the sun can result in burns on the leaves and flowers. They will look like spots. In addition, excessive lighting in the summer leads to shrinking of the leaves of the bush. Moreover, after a sunny summer in winter, the plant will be less able to tolerate short daylight hours. A healthy plant that gets enough light should have a deep green leaf.

In order for the orchid bush to form evenly, it should be periodically turned towards the sun in different directions. Usually the pot is rotated about twice a month, but during the budding period, you should not disturb the plant. In addition, the plant does not tolerate transfers from its usual place, so it is better not to move it unnecessarily.

Temperature

Phalaenopsis grows and blooms best when the room keeps from +16 to +25 degrees.A short heat (up to +42 degrees) or coolness (at least +12 degrees) will not harm the plant, but you should not expose it to such critical temperatures too often. Despite the need for ventilation of the room, cold drafts are very harmful for the plant, so you should not install the pot in the path of air currents.

Watering

If direct rays do not fall on the bush, it can spend a couple of weeks without watering. Phalaenopsis is usually watered only after the soil in the pot has completely dried out, but still it is not worth keeping the soil dry for too long. If the flower was planted in a transparent container, it should be watered as soon as moisture disappears from the walls of the pot. The soil in an opaque pot can be excavated a little to assess the moisture level. Pallor of orchid roots is also considered a sign of a lack of water. After moistening, its silvery-gray roots acquire a green color, and as the soil dries up, they gradually turn pale again. But from an excess of moisture, they turn brown.

When watering phalaenopsis, you need to try so that drops of water do not fall on the leaves. To do this, you need to either gently pour water directly into the ground, or use only bottom watering. For this, the flower pot is immersed in a wider container filled with water. The soil will begin to absorb moisture thanks to the holes in the bottom of the pot. But at this time, the roots should not be in direct contact with water.

For watering such an orchid, it is recommended to use filtered, boiled or distilled water. About once a month, the bush can be washed under a shower or a tap, but then be sure to wipe it thoroughly and gently. From waterlogging of the soil, the leaves of the phalaenopsis can begin to fade, and the growth points are likely to begin to rot. Sometimes after this, the bush may begin to release side branches, but without adjustment, such conditions end in the death of the flower.

Humidity level

The optimum humidity for phalaenopsis growth is approximately 30-40%, provided there is constant ventilation. Lower rates can lead to falling flowers and wilting of foliage. You can slightly increase the humidity level with damp pebbles.

Excessively high humidity harms Phalaenopsis no less: its roots and leaves can also begin to rot. Regular spraying is not recommended: the ingress of moisture into the leaf sinuses leads to its drainage to the core of the plant and its subsequent decay. In addition, water droplets on leaves on a sunny day can cause burns.

Top dressing

They try to combine phalaenopsis fertilization with watering it, diluting the nutrient compounds in water. Full fertilizers are applied twice a month, but if the flower is fed weekly, the dose of nutrients should be reduced accordingly. During periods of rest, you can moderately feed the bush with nitrogen, and during periods of flowering, phosphorus and potassium.

Transfer

Phalaenopsis must be moved to a fresh substrate if it has been growing in the same container and soil for more than 2-3 years. During this period, the soil in the pot cakes and begins to sour, becoming unsuitable for growing, and needs to be replaced. In addition, old soil often contributes to the development of diseases. Another reason for transplanting is excessive root growth. In this case, they begin to vigorously branch and germinate into the holes in the bottom of the pot. But a phalaenopsis transplant can be done only when it fades.

A healthy plant that was grown in a coarse-grained substrate can be carefully moved to another pot, slightly larger than the old one. Large particles do not allow the earth to crumble strongly and leave a lot of air voids, so necessary for the roots of phalaenopsis. This allows you to use such a soil longer than usual. At the same time, for a full-fledged transplant into a new soil, a substrate of the same composition and structure as the old one should be selected.

Before moving, you should first carefully examine the roots of phalaenopsis and remove any rotten, dried or yellowed. All sections are treated with an antiseptic. Empty places are filled with fresh mixture, which should include bark, which has medium and fine fractions, as well as sphagnum. You can use store-bought soil to grow these plants, or you can make it yourself.

First of all, a thick layer of drainage is laid on the bottom of the container. Usually expanded clay or chopped polystyrene is used in this capacity. After that, a layer of bark (middle fraction) is poured on top, and then a mixture of smaller bark with finely chopped sphagnum moss. But before planting, the bark must be additionally prepared. In dry form, it easily passes water in order to avoid this, it is first thoroughly washed, and then left in water for two days to allow it to swell. After that, the bark is washed again, dried and only then placed in a pot.

When planting, the phalaenopsis orchid should not be heavily sprinkled with earth, this is done loosely in order to facilitate the flow of air to the root system.

Pruning

After the completion of the flowering of the phalaenopsis, the peduncle needs to be observed for some time. As soon as the arrow acquires a yellow tint and withers, it is cut off, but healthy, juicy and green arrows do not need to be cut off. In this case, the probability remains that after 2 months the phalaenopsis will begin to lay fresh flower buds on it. Then a lateral shoot forms on it, on which buds will also appear.

If the older arrow is stretched very strongly, you need to shorten it, trying to cut it about 1 cm above the awakened kidney. The higher the first peduncle is cut, the less lush the lateral bloom will become. But below the 3rd bud, pruning is not recommended: this increases the break between the periods of bud formation.

Phalaenopsis flowering period

Phalaenopsis can begin to bloom at any period, basically the timing depends on the health of the bush and the conditions in which it is located. Its flowering can last from 2 months to six months. Most often, two waves of flowers appear per year, but sometimes a third can occur. Each flower arrow usually blooms from 3 pieces to several dozen buds. In diameter, they can reach 15 cm, although there are also species with much smaller 2 cm flowers.

The number of flowers on each arrow may depend on the degree of its branching, as well as on the favorable growing conditions. The length of the arrow can sometimes reach almost 1 meter, in this case, about a hundred flowers of a fairly large size can form on the plant. Each flower has a delicate scent. The palette of possible colors is very diverse: the petals can have a yellow, white, red, purple or pink base color with various specks or specks on its background.

Lack of flowering

Phalaenopsis usually blooms again 3 months after flowering. If this does not happen, and the bush simply continues to grow, there may be several reasons at once:

• Lack of light. When normal conditions are restored, the plant should form flower buds.
• An excess of nitrogen fertilizers. In this case, you will have to wait until the phalaenopsis assimilates and processes all the nitrogen accumulated in the soil. In parallel, the flower can be fed with phosphorus fertilizers.
• Plant fatigue. The orchid does not have enough strength to form flower stalks, and it takes time to recover. After some period, you can try to stimulate flowering. To do this, it is recommended to lower the night temperature in the room (the optimal difference between day and night should be about 7 degrees), and also to reduce watering, while simultaneously using drugs to accelerate the formation of buds. Such conditions will help the bush to bloom again.

Post-flowering care

Most often, after the end of the flowering arrow, this phalaenopsis shoot begins to dry out, after which it is removed.But sometimes the arrow stays healthy and green. In this case, there are three options for action:

1. Save the peduncle.
2. Prune it for branching.
3. Remove the entire arrow, leaving only a short stump.

The cut arrow can be placed in a glass of water. There, after a while, a baby will be able to form on it. Left in place, the arrow will eventually give side shoots, where buds will also form, but this flowering will be weaker in comparison with the main flower branches.

Reproduction methods of the phalaenopsis orchid

Reproduction with the help of children

There are orchids that can reproduce by dividing the rhizome, but Phalaenopsis is not one of them. In nature, it usually propagates by seeds and shoots, but the seed method in indoor conditions is rarely used: it is very complex.

The easiest way to propagate such an orchid is vegetatively. Usually, side branches are used for this, growing from the peduncle or from the base of the leaf rosette. At the same time, pruning can be carried out only after the phalaenopsis has faded and rests after that for at least a month or two. Only those baby shoots that have formed at least two leaf blades and have grown air roots about 5 cm long are subjected to jigging. But you should not wait too long: too large children can deplete the parent plant. The separated baby must be dried for at least a day, and then planted in a substrate formed from a fine-grained bark. An impromptu greenhouse is arranged over the seedling, where the temperature is maintained at about +23 +24 degrees.

At the same time, phalaenopsis independently forms lateral processes quite rarely, usually the reason for their appearance is errors in plant care, leading to decay of the growing point. If the flower is looked after correctly, it is possible to stimulate the growth of its buds by artificial means. At the base of a faded peduncle, a sleeping bud is sought for this. With the help of a sharp instrument, a shallow incision in the form of a semicircle is made on the bark of the kidney, trying to touch only the upper scales. After that, the cut area of ​​the bark is removed with tweezers. From above, the kidney can be treated with a solution that stimulates root formation. It is sometimes replaced with freshly harvested birch sap.

For disinfection, you can treat the kidney with cytokine paste, and then cover it with a piece of moss. After a couple of months, a rosette of several leaves will begin to develop from the treated bud, and a little later it will develop its own roots. To accelerate the development of the baby, you can put a transparent bag on the bush. It will help create a warm and humid environment for the baby to develop faster. After the roots have reached at least 2 cm, the baby is cut off along with a section of the mother's branch and planted in a pot, again closing the seedling with a bag to create increased moisture. In order not to harm the maternal phalaenopsis, you should not wake up more than one kidney at a time.

A cut green stalk can also be used to produce a baby. A scale is removed from the kidney on it in the same way, then the arrow is immersed a few centimeters in a very weak (0.005%) solution of mineral fertilizers. After that, the peduncle is placed in an impromptu greenhouse and the water in the vessel is regularly replaced.

Phalaenopsis diseases

Phalaenopsis diseases can be infectious or non-infectious, but they are all usually caused by improper plant care. Among the main infectious diseases:

Fusarium

Often a fungal disease affecting this type of orchid. The root system of phalaenopsis suffers first from it, and then the symptoms of the disease begin to appear on the plant itself. The main cause of fusarium is an excess of moisture in the soil. Such a disease cannot be cured, all that remains is to completely get rid of the bush. Other similar diseases (other types of rot, rust, anthracnose or mottling) can be treated by spraying with fungicidal agents.Usually, to destroy a small focus, two treatments are required with an interval of 10 days.

Hives

Another common orchid disease. Diseased specimens can be recognized by spots on the leaf blades, their size can be up to 3 cm.The main cause of such a disease is considered to be too high humidity in combination with a cold atmosphere in the room and poor ventilation. After the flower returns to normal conditions, it should recover.

Botrytis

Weak air movement and excessive moisture can cause another disease - botrytis. Flowers are the first to suffer in this case. Dark brown specks appear on the petals, after which the flowers begin to fade. You can slow down the development of the disease by increasing the temperature in the room. In addition, you need to try to adjust the conditions for keeping the bush by increasing ventilation and treating it with a bactericidal preparation.

Non-communicable diseases are also the consequences of improper care of the phalaenopsis orchid. Usually, they are caused by untimely watering, an incorrect feeding schedule, excess light, or the use of pesticides. The foliage of the diseased phalaenopsis begins to dry out or become covered with specks, and the roots die off, in addition, other plant tissues may be affected. So the dropping of leaves can be caused by direct currents of cold air, the instability of the bush can be caused by root problems, and wilting of the foliage can be caused by an incorrect watering schedule. A chance to save the bush will appear when the root cause of the problem is identified, but it will not be easy to leave a diseased specimen, in this case it is much easier to try to prevent the disease than to cure it.

The main pests of the phalaenopsis orchid

Sometimes phalaenopsis can fall prey to harmful insects:

Mealybug

The appearance of a mealybug leads to yellowing and flying around the foliage of the phalaenopsis. You can get rid of the pest by treating the leaves and twigs of the bush with a soap solution.

Spider mite

The reason for the appearance of spider mites is usually too low humidity in the room. Signs of damage are a thin, light cobweb covering the foliage. You can get rid of small foci by treating with a soap solution, it is also used in the fight against aphids or worms. A large number of mites can only be removed with an appropriate acaricidal agent.

Thrips

Orchid flowers and leaves can infect thrips. Usually, in this case, small brownish spots are formed on them. Only insecticidal agents will help to save the plant, while from the whole variety it is recommended to choose more gentle and less toxic ones, for example, Fitoverm.

Shields

The appearance of brownish tubercles on the leaf blades indicates the presence of scale insects. These insects feed on the sap of the plant and cause it to wilt. To get rid of them, you can try a soap solution, which will require at least two treatments with a weekly break.

Slugs

If the orchid grows in a country house, slugs or snails can attack the plant. Due to their large size, they quickly devour the foliage of the phalaenopsis. You can get rid of pests by getting up at night and collecting them from the plant by hand. Another way to track down slugs is by arranging bait for them. For this, chopped vegetables or fruits are laid out on the surface of the substrate: carrots, cucumbers or apples. To prevent mold from appearing on the ground, the pieces should be removed in the morning.