Azalea

Azalea (Azalea) is one of the most spectacular houseplants. Thanks to the beautiful flowers that abundantly cover the bushes, it looks incredibly decorative. Azalea belongs to the genus of rhododendrons. In nature, these miniature evergreen or deciduous shrubs are found in India, Japan and China, but are also found in southern European countries and the North American continent. The name of the plant means "dry". Sometimes azalea can be called by the name of the whole genus - rhododendron, although these plants have a number of differences, for example, in the number of stamens.

Azaleas have several hundred different species. The flower was brought to Russia only in the 20th century, using it only as a greenhouse plant. Over time, two types of azalea - Indian and Japanese - began to grow in apartments.

But, despite its elegance, this flower is considered very delicate and capricious. It is not uncommon for azalea bushes to dry out or shed their leaves due to improper care or shortly after the plant was brought from the store. To preserve the beauty and get a healthy and strong azalea bush, you must comply with all the requirements for caring for her.

Description of azalea

Azalea is a dwarf shrub with a large number of twigs. Its main characteristics depend on the species. The dimensions of the Indian azalea do not exceed half a meter. Its foliage has a rich green color and is small up to 3.5 cm in size. There is a slight reddish pubescence on the surface of the plates. The flowering period is in winter and usually starts in November or December. The size of each flower reaches 3-5 cm.

The Japanese azalea variety can be more miniature: from 30 to 50 cm. It has small shiny foliage and smaller flowers. At the same time, Japanese azalea can be grown not only in a pot, but also outdoors.

Numerous varieties of azaleas can have different flowering times: early (early winter), medium or late (early spring). Flowers can appear on the bush from two weeks to two months. If you collect plants of all types and take care of them properly, then the total period of their flowering can reach up to six months.

Indoor shrubs attract with the abundance of their flowering. Beginning at 3-4 years of age, azaleas begin to be covered with delicate flowers. Their color palette includes scarlet, lilac, snow white, lilac and hot pink. There are also two-color varieties. Flowers can be simple or have varying degrees of doubleness.

Care should be taken when buying a new azalea bush. Preference is given to specimens with a large number of unblown buds. In this state, the azalea adapts better to changing conditions than a lush flowering bush. Also, the plant must be inspected for signs of disease or the presence of pests. Having tilted the bush, it is worth looking for dry leaves. A large number of them may indicate that the plant is unhealthy or has been in uncomfortable conditions for a long time.

Brief rules for growing azaleas

The table shows brief rules for caring for an azalea at home.

Azalea care at home

Nowadays, azalea is quite common among indoor plants, and is in great demand, because of its unusually beautiful flowering. But it is important to know all the intricacies of growing before planting this flower at home. Compliance with all the rules for caring for an azalea will allow you to get a beautiful plant that pleases with its lush and long flowering.

Lighting

Azalea is light-requiring, but the plant requires shading from the scorching sun. She does not tolerate direct rays at all stages of development. Usually the bush is kept on any windows, except for the southern ones. The eastern direction is considered the most optimal. For azaleas, partial shade is also suitable.

Due to the fact that the bush begins to form especially actively flower buds in mid-autumn, at this time the azalea especially needs sufficient lighting. If natural light is lacking, lamps can be used.

Temperature

Despite its delicate appearance, azalea is not considered a heat-loving plant. The optimum temperature for growing it at home is considered to be 15-18 degrees. In autumn, when the bush forms buds, the temperature should be lowered to 10-12 degrees. The right temperature will promote abundant and long-lasting flowering.

It can be especially difficult to achieve the necessary conditions in the summer heat. At this time, the azalea is recommended to be taken out to cool balconies that are not located on the south side. Plants grown in private homes are often transferred to the garden. Air conditioners can be used in apartments, maintaining the temperature at least at 20 degrees. Too hot weather can cause azalea foliage to wilt. Sometimes, in extreme heat, ice cubes are laid out next to the plant. You need to try not to place them too close to the flower, limited to the edge of the pot or a place near it.

Watering mode

The rate of growth and development of the bush depends on the correct watering regime. In order for the plant to receive a sufficient amount of moisture, the following requirements must be observed:

• Azaleas require regular watering, but during the flowering period they need to be watered a little more abundantly than usual. Usually this is done every couple of days, trying not to overmoisten the soil. In the fall, the flower is watered less often.
• The soil should always remain slightly damp. Drying of the soil must not be allowed. If this did happen, place the container with the plant in lukewarm water for a couple of hours. During this period, the flower must replenish the missing reserves of water.
• Overflow is also considered harmful to the plant. To prevent the azalea roots from rotting, all excess water should be poured out of the pan.
• Regular watering can be alternated with lower watering.
• Watering the azalea with tap water, you need to defend it for at least two days. Only in this case all the chlorine will evaporate from it. The best water for irrigation is considered to be thawed or rainwater. You can use boiled or filtered water, but any water should be cool enough.
• You can add 2-3 drops of lemon juice to the water. This will improve the flowering of the azalea, but this method should not be used more often than once every couple of weeks.
• In winter, if the room is cool, you can put pieces of snow or ice on the surface of the soil. As it melts, water seeps into the soil. But if the room is hot, you should not do this - the temperature difference can harm the plant.

Humidity level

Azalea prefers high humidity levels. The bush is periodically sprayed using cool water. During flowering, this is done as carefully as possible so that drops do not fall on the flowers, or they do not spray the plants at all. This can cause the petals to turn brown and rot.

To increase humidity, open containers filled with water can be kept next to the azalea. Placing the plant on a tray filled with water is also suitable, if the flower pot is installed on an elevation in the center of the container, and it will not come into direct contact with moisture. If the air is permanently humidified in this way, the sump must be washed and cleaned periodically. In addition, you can use all kinds of humidifiers or place the azalea next to a decorative fountain. In summer, the flower is often taken out into the garden, into the air. He is not afraid of natural precipitation. In winter, when heating devices dry the air, the humidity must be monitored especially closely.

The soil

For home azaleas, acidic soil with a reaction of about 4-4.5 is suitable. Specialized azalea mix is ​​also available. For self-preparation, you will need moss, sand and a double part of rotted needles. You can use heather soil or mix sand with peat and conifer soil. A drainage layer must be placed on the bottom of the container.

Azalea can be grown hydroponically.

Top dressing

Azalea growing in a pot should be fed with mineral formulations that are free of chlorine. This element can be detrimental to the flower. Most often, specialized formulations for azaleas are used for dressing.

In spring and summer, the bush is fed weekly, but not more often. In winter, the number of dressings is significantly reduced. At this time, you need to use the nutritional formulations no more than once a month. With the beginning of the budding period and during flowering, formulations for flowering should be used, in which potassium and phosphorus predominate (Kemira-lux, Unifor-bud and others). You can also use a superphosphate solution (10 g of water will require 15 g)

Transfer

It is recommended to replant both adult and newly acquired azaleas as soon as they have faded. Move the bush with care using the transshipment method. This will preserve the soil ball and cause less damage to the root system. Azalea roots are considered very fragile, they are easy to damage, so you need to act carefully.

For planting, choose a wide, but not too deep container. This will allow the roots to remain in their natural position - close to the soil surface. Because of this feature of azaleas, it can be dangerous to loosen the soil in a pot - the risk of damage to the roots is too great.

Young bushes need to be replanted annually, and adult specimens - about once every 3 years. At the same time, dried branches, shoots and wilted flowers are necessarily cut off from the transplanted bush.

Pruning and pinching

Cutting the azalea helps to obtain a more beautiful crown, as well as an abundance of its flowering. To do this, the bush should be periodically trimmed and pinched.

After the plant has faded, all single wilted flowers are removed from it - the seeds formed in their place can significantly weaken the bush.

At the end of spring, fresh young stems are cut from azaleas, leaving about 5 leaf plates on them. This pruning, along with the correct pinching, will promote the formation of buds at the ends of the shoots. Pruning times may vary depending on the type of plant. Early flowering azaleas are pruned in early spring, while others are trimmed from May to early summer. For the procedure, you will need a special secateurs. Usually weak or too elongated shoots are subject to removal. Small shoots that form next to flower buds should also be pinched. Branching too thick will have a negative effect on flowering. Fresh foliage usually begins to appear 2-3 weeks after pruning. Without timely cutting, over the years, the bush can weaken and bloom much more modestly.

Crown formation

In order for the azalea to have a beautiful voluminous crown and resemble a tree, you can form it on the basis of the strongest shoot, turning it into a kind of trunk. In this case, the side branches must be removed, and the selected shoot is strengthened on a support. When it reaches the desired height, it is pinched for further branching, and then the branches that are knocked out of the future crown are simply removed. To make the azalea resemble a bush, the stalk should be pinched at a level of 12 cm. Lateral shoots are also pinched at the tops. Any formed plant should be periodically turned towards the light in different directions for uniform development of branches.

There are two main types of crown formation in an azalea: a stem (a small tree with a trunk of about 20-30 cm) - the most decorative option or a bush - the option is simpler and more natural. Pruning for early varieties must be carried out no later than March-April, for late varieties - in May-June. The formation of the crown is carried out in order to obtain a plant with a beautiful voluminous crown and evenly laid buds. In general, annual pruning boils down to the fact that all the shoots of the previous year are shortened and excess, weak or very closely spaced branches are completely removed.

Bloom

Azalea blooms lasts approximately 2-3 months. If the plant is in a warm room, the flowering time can be much shorter. Flowering usually begins in winter or spring.

For longer flowering, the azalea needs to be kept cool. After it has faded (or even better as it blooms), the seed pods must be removed so as not to weaken the plant. Unlike many other plants, azalea can be safely turned and carried during flowering. But after the end of flowering, the plant must be returned to its original place and to the position in which it was during budding. During flowering, all faded buds must be removed immediately, then the azalea will bloom longer.

With proper care, the azalea will bloom more and more luxuriantly every year. After flowering, you need to cut off all faded flowers. To form a lush bush, pruning of shoots must be carried out several times in early summer. Also, young shoots that form immediately before or during flowering are pinched.

Azalea breeding methods

At home, azalea is propagated by semi-lignified stem cuttings, although this is difficult. The most optimal period for propagation by cuttings is from May to August. As a cutting, use slightly stiff twigs not less than six months old, having several buds. Too young stems will fade quickly, and older ones will not be able to give roots. The optimal length of the cut is about 7 cm.

Cuttings are planted in acidic soil to a depth of 2 cm, and then covered with a jar or transparent bag. You can pre-treat the planting material with a root formation stimulator. Such seedlings require frequent spraying and full watering. The best temperature for root formation is around 24 degrees. The emerging flower buds must be removed so that all the forces of the seedling go to rooting. This usually takes about 1-2 months. Rooted specimens are seated in separate pots.The stretching branches are pinched to form a neat crown.

Sometimes indoor azaleas are propagated by dividing the bush, but this procedure must be carried out very carefully due to the fragility of the plant roots. The easiest way is to divide the bush, which is already 3-4 years old, into several parts. The roots of the plant are thin, superficial, so you need to divide it with great care.

There is also a seed propagation method, but this is considered very time consuming and does not guarantee the same plant. Most often, breeders resort to it.

Rare varieties of azaleas are propagated by grafting, which are difficult to take root. Inoculated by copulation. After that, the grafted plant is placed under a jar or in a mini-greenhouse made of polyethylene, constantly watering, spraying and airing.

Diseases and pests

The most common causes of azalea problems are improper care. Difficulties with the plant are often caused by insufficient or excessive watering, too bright sun or a hot room, or, conversely, a lack of light. Improperly selected soil can also cause troubles.

Diseases

• Withering or yellowing foliage - azaleas do not have enough moisture or are standing in too hot sun. After the bush begins to water normally and is transferred to a more suitable place, a healthy look should return to the foliage. Falling yellow leaves can also be caused by the presence of clay in the substrate.
• Yellowing, wilting and dropping of flowers - may be associated with too hard water. In order for the azalea to recover, it is watered with boiled water, to which the appropriate fertilizers have been added.
• Short flowering period - may be caused by too dry air in the room.
• Signs of gray mold or rust - require adjusting the conditions for keeping the flower. The affected parts of the azalea must be removed.
• Phytophthora - can affect bushes due to excessively abundant watering. Usually these plants die.

Pests

The most dangerous pests when growing potted azaleas are whitefly, mealybug, azalea moth, furrow weevil, as well as some types of insects, ticks and molluscs. Spider mites or strawberry mites, as well as scale insects, may also appear. To get rid of them, it is necessary to carry out treatments with special preparations. You can use them in combination with folk remedies. The foliage of the plant is first treated with soapy water, washed off, and then an insecticide is used (for example, Actellik). As a preventive measure against the appearance of spider mites, plant foliage should be washed and sprayed more often, especially in hot and dry weather.