Thuja is considered a fairly common crop for horticultural cultivation. She has no equal in the organization of landscape design. Low trees are an excellent decoration for parks, squares and summer cottages. In addition to its convenient compact size and visual appeal, thuja effectively purifies the air. Breeders have learned to grow thuja not only in the open air, but also to cultivate it indoors. For the full growth of such a home gardener, you will need to make a lot of effort, provide proper care and choose the right look that will take root in the apartment without any problems.
Description of thuja
Thuja belongs to the group of evergreen tree species and is related to the coniferous Cypress family. The monoecious plant has a pronounced aroma and bears fruit with both female and male cones. The process of pollination in gymnosperms thuja affects the period from April to May. Then round seeds ripen in ovoid cones. In autumn, ripe bolls crack. Grains are poured out of them in different directions. Within the natural boundaries, the culture prefers to settle in a forest belt in the northeast or north of the United States and Canada. The plant grows slowly in size. The largest specimens are 10 meters long.
The Indian race calls the thuja "iron tree" due to its strong wood and the presence of stable qualities against decay. The imported varieties are called western thuja. For the first time, they learned about a pyramidal tree in Europe in the 16th century. In the south of Russia, culture cultivation began only in the 18th century. Park planting in the Caucasus and Crimea has gained particular popularity.
A large number of oriental thujas are grown in Asian countries, where the tree is used for decorative and medicinal purposes. The slopes of mountain ranges in Japan, China and Korea are home to wild species. You can often hear how the thuja is called the “tree of life”. Decades ago, it was customary to plant the plant near mosques and other holy places. Eastern healers highly value its medicinal properties.
Thuja care at home
The normal development of home thuja implies regular care. Deviation from the watering regime, feeding or violation of other indicators will lead to difficulties with growing.
Location and lighting
In the homeland of thuja, and we are talking about North America, a predominantly cool microclimate prevails. Therefore, in apartment conditions, flowerpots with a tree are protected from direct rays. Otherwise, the foliage will get burned, and the coniferous needles will turn yellow. The plant belongs to shade-tolerant forms, but it is a mistake to neglect natural light. The branches will stretch in this case.
For thuja, a place is selected that is located near the window, preferably on the south side of the building. If the window faces north, the pot is raised to the windowsill.
Temperature
The growth of needles on the branches depends on the air temperature in the room. Temperature fluctuations during winter and summer periods should not be very different. Critical limits are 20-30 ° C. In the summer, the bushes are kept in the room, taken out on the balcony or left in the garden before the arrival of the first autumn cold weather. With the outdoor method of growing, the tree is placed in partial shade, where at noon it will not be harmed by the sun's rays.
Tui are bad for hot and dry air. In winter, it is recommended to keep the pots in a cool room at a temperature not exceeding 15 ° C. Wintering will be successful on a closed insulated balcony. Light frosts are not dangerous, but frosty nights can cool the root system and lead to freezing, and drafts disrupt the growth of the tree. In winter, the flowerpot is temporarily wrapped in cloth and placed under cardboard underneath.
Watering mode
Thuja tolerates prolonged dry weather and is not afraid of low humidity. The bushes are watered in moderation, without excess accumulation of liquid in the roots, but the earth should not dry out. Dehydration of the substrate at the stage of active vegetation or after transplanting threatens with the extinction of the tree. In the heat, the soil is moistened a couple of times a week.
In the cold season, irrigation sessions are carried out less often, each time reducing the amount of water applied. In a warm room, the soil is moistened only 2 times a month. If the thermometer is at 0 ° C, stop watering. Take a settled liquid at room temperature, the substrate is not poured.
Air humidity
Air humidity does not really matter for the growth of thuja, so you can refuse daily spraying. If the weather is hot for a long time, the crown is moistened to remove dust.
The soil
Planting home thuja is carried out in a light airy substrate that will not interfere with the roots, absorb water and oxygen. The composition of the soil differs depending on how old the plant has reached. For young seedlings, a soil mixture is collected from sand, leaf and coniferous soil. Already strengthened bushes, which do not require transplanting in the near future, are immersed in sod soil with the addition of peat and sand. For mature trees with a developed frame, a ready-made earthen mixture for conifers is suitable. It is available in many specialty stores.
Planting pot
A pot for planting a thuja is chosen taking into account the size of the root system. As a rule, the rhizome of the room thuja is long, so it is preferable to buy a tall pot. To prevent the tree from tipping over, take a stable container. Thuja is transplanted into a new flowerpot, which is 2 cm wider than the old container. A thin layer of drainage is poured onto the bottom. Holes are also made to drain excess liquid into the pan.
So that the culture does not freeze with the arrival of cold weather, it is important to take care of a safe container. It is recommended to use sturdy containers made of non-porous material that does not absorb water. Then the root processes will be protected from hypothermia. If the thuja is planned to be kept in a room where the air temperature does not drop below 10 ° C, it is not necessary to take into account the quality of the flowerpot.
Top dressing
Home thuja does not need frequent feeding. It is enough to enrich the soil with additional nutrients once a month. In March-April, the trees are fed with nitrogen fertilizers, and in the summer they alternate with potash and phosphorus fertilizers. When the vital processes begin to subside, the introduction of mineral complexes is stopped. In winter, the plant needs rest.
How to transplant thuja
A home thuja transplant is organized closer to spring. While the bush is small, it is transplanted once a year, given the width of the flowerpot. As mentioned earlier, the new container should be 2 cm more spacious than the previous one. Since the procedure takes a lot of strength and energy from the tree to recover, they try to touch the already established plant only as a last resort.
It is recommended to transplant thuja according to the following scheme:
- it is imperative to lay drainage material on the bottom of the pot;
- water the bush without delay in a new place;
- apply the transshipment method when carrying a seedling;
- trees with a highly branched crown are pre-pruned;
- the root collar is deepened to allow the lateral roots to form.
Trimming
Crowning a tree is done in the spring. Distinguish between forming and sanitary pruning of thuja. To make the plant look attractive and less attacked by pests, remove all dried branches. The bush will grow in a spherical or pyramidal shape, if, in addition to cutting, regularly pinch the tops of the shoots.
Breeding methods for home thuja
Home thuja is propagated by cuttings or grown from seeds.
Growing from seeds
This breeding method is considered laborious. To achieve the desired result, you need to make a lot of effort and know what points you should pay special attention to. If the goal of the gardener is to preserve the varietal characteristics of the bush, this method may not work.
Seed material is collected from the cones of mature trees until they are fully ripe. The buds are carefully cut and stored in a dark place, providing a warm environment until the skin cracks and the achenes appear. Before sowing, the grains are covered with a damp cloth to speed up the germination process. As the moisture evaporates, the fabric is moistened with water on top.
The prepared container is filled with an earthen mixture, which is intended for breeding indoor thuja. Achenes are lightly pressed into the surface of the soil and sprinkled with sawdust or sand. The seed containers are then left at room temperature under diffused light. The sprouts are shown above the soil at the 4th or 6th week after sowing. The seedlings are regularly looked after for 3-5 years, until slender and lush trees grow. The process is complicated and tedious, therefore it is rarely used by gardeners.
Cuttings
Cuttings are harvested from lateral branches with a length of approximately 10 cm. Cut in such a way that a piece of lignified stem is preserved. The cut is treated with Kornevin for the speedy launching of roots and deepened into the loose soil. At first, cuttings do not need watering. They are moved to a warm place and sprayed on the ground from time to time with a spray bottle. With the appearance of green leaves on the cuttings, one can understand that rooting was successful, and nothing threatens the seedlings. After that, the containers are moved to a well-ventilated area. After some time, the rooted cuttings are planted in different containers for permanent residence.
Pests and diseases
Growing difficulties
The most common problems with breeding cultivated thuja at home are associated with fungal diseases and pests. Due to careless maintenance or overflow, the tree dies. The yellowing of coniferous needles and branches is quite common. The reasons for such changes with the plant arise in a situation where the flowerpot with a tree has been under the scorching sunlight for a long time. The foliage was severely burned and discolored as a result. Either the pigmentation is caused by the fact that the root collar is too covered with earth, or, conversely, it sticks out high above the surface of the soil. In winter, yellowing of the needles is a common process, so there is no need to panic that the green pet is sick.
Diseases
Thuja branches are susceptible to fungal infections. We are talking about fusarium and cytosprosis. The latter disease harms the cortex. Black streaks form on the surface. Gradually, the spores of the fungus are transferred to the inner layers of the trunk, which will inevitably lead to the death of the culture.
Signs of fusarium infection are the coloring of the needles in a red or red color, followed by wilting. The disease also affects the underground root of the bush.If measures are not taken in time, the seedling will be difficult to save. Sick specimens must be treated with diluted Bordeaux liquid or Cartocide. Spraying sessions with chemicals are repeated every two weeks until the thuja is fully restored.
Insect attacks
Thuja conifers attract scale insects and bark beetles. Pests, settling on needles, feed on cell sap. As a result, the branches begin to turn yellow. Scales settle on the seed coat and bark. When the bark becomes covered with small holes or narrow corroded canals, you should be afraid of bark beetles. These insects cause irreparable damage to wood. To control insects, chemicals from the group of insecticides are used, which are sold in gardening stores.
Useful properties of thuja
Thuja grown in apartment conditions perfectly purifies the air and creates a cozy atmosphere. Fragrant needles normalize sleep and soothe the owners after a hard day. Healing infusions are prepared on the basis of the leaves, which in folk medicine serve as an effective remedy for many diseases. In winter, if there is no Christmas tree at hand, the thuja tree can be dressed up for the New Year's holiday.
