Schefflera plant, or sheflera, is a short tree or shrub from the Araliev family. This genus includes low trees, shrubs, and also vines. Sheffler's main habitat is the Pacific islands, they are also found in East Asian countries. The plant got its name in honor of the famous botanist from Germany I.H. Scheffler.
The growing popularity of shefflers in home floriculture is associated with their high unpretentiousness. Even beginner growers will be able to care for such a plant. But in order for the flower to please with an attractive appearance and beautiful foliage, it is necessary to observe the basic conditions of its maintenance.
Description of shefflers
Most often, of the entire species diversity, trees are grown as indoor plants. Domestic shefflers are small in height, but their growth must be controlled to maintain a compact size. Otherwise, the tree may stretch for several meters. Due to the lush crown, it will also need a lot of free space in width. The trunk of the plant gradually becomes bare as it grows.
Sheffler foliage is located on long stems and resembles an umbrella, which includes about 12 lobes. The surface of the plates is leathery, colored in shades of green, which can be either light or dark. The plant has the ability to purify the air from formaldehyde and benzene, while releasing oxygen. Schefflera is considered a poisonous plant - all parts contain hazardous substances, so plantings should be handled with care. Work is carried out with gloves, and then hands are thoroughly washed.
How to distinguish between sheffler and heptapleurum
Heptapleurum is closely related to shefflera, so these plants are often confused. It is especially difficult to deal with their similarities in a flower shop, where one flower can be passed off for another.
The main feature of the shefflera is its tree-like shape, while it will turn out to form a bush from the heptaleurum. Heptapleurum can also be identified by the scent emanating from its foliage. If you rub the plate with your fingers, its smell will be reminiscent of geranium. Sheffler foliage has no smell. At the same time, some classifications classify both plants as one genus.
Brief rules for growing shefflers
The table shows brief rules for caring for a shefflera at home.
Lighting level | The plant is kept in a sunny place, but the light must be diffused. |
Content temperature | In summer, the ideal temperature is about 20-25 degrees. In winter, it can be reduced to 16-18 degrees. |
Watering mode | From mid-spring to early autumn, watering is carried out about once a week. In winter, less often - once every 2-3 weeks. |
Air humidity | The flower prefers high (about 60-70%) humidity, but it tolerates dry air. |
The soil | Growing soil should include clay, nutrient soil, lavalite, quartz sand. |
Top dressing | Top dressing is applied monthly in liquid form simultaneously with watering. In winter, during the dormant period, it is not necessary to feed the plant. |
Transfer | Usually, the plant is transplanted every 2-3 years, when its roots begin to protrude from the top of the pot or appear in the drainage holes. |
Pruning | Branches that violate its shape are removed from the crown. Usually pruning is carried out in the first half of spring. |
Bloom | At home, the Scheffler blooms very rarely. |
Dormant period | In winter, there is a dormant period. |
Reproduction | Cuttings, seeds, layering. |
Pests | Aphids, spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects. |
Diseases | Root rot, fungal diseases, bacterial infections. |
Shefflera care at home
You can get a strong tree with beautiful and bright foliage only if you follow the main rules for caring for a shefflera.
Lighting
One of the main requirements for growing shefflers is good lighting. But it is important to protect the crown of the plant from direct scorching rays: they can leave burns on the foliage. Sheffler is kept in a sunny place, but the light must be diffused. A curtain or other small shade will help to achieve the desired effect.
The lack of light becomes noticeable in the appearance of the shefflers. Its crown becomes more spreading, and the shoots begin to hang. This is due to the fact that the branches of the tree begin to stretch towards the sun. If the window lighting of the Scheffler is not enough, it is recommended to correct the lack of light with lamps. They should be about 20 cm from the leaves of the plant. It is especially important to use supplementary lighting in the autumn-winter period if it is kept above 18 degrees in a room with plants.
Different types and varieties of shefflers may have different requirements for illumination. So variegated forms usually require a lot of light, otherwise they will lose their unusual color, and green-leaved forms are able to grow on the less illuminated side. Lack of light and its excess are considered equally harmful to the plant.
Temperature
In summer, the ideal temperature for shefflers is about 20-25 degrees. In winter, it can be reduced to 16-18 degrees. The lower threshold for growing is to lower the temperature to 12 degrees - in this case, the sheffler can shed the foliage. In the same way, the tree can behave in extreme heat, as well as due to sudden temperature fluctuations or exposure to a draft. In the warm season, the pot with the plant can be taken out into the air. In winter, keep the flower away from both batteries and cold glass or the floor.
In order for the crown of the tree to develop evenly, it should be periodically turned to the light source in different directions. If this is not done, part of the crown in the shade may change color or begin to thin out.
Watering
Sheffler's health depends a lot on proper watering. It is carried out when the soil in the pot is dry enough - the depth of the dry part should be at least 2 cm. Watering should be abundant - until water begins to seep into the drainage holes. If the shefflera has begun to shed yellow leaves, she may be lacking moisture. Dry brown leaves can testify to this. From mid-spring to early autumn, watering is carried out about once a week. In winter, you can do this less often - once every 2-3 weeks.
To avoid stagnation of water at the roots, you should provide the plant with good drainage and use soil that conducts moisture well. Excess water from the sump should be drained as soon as it is completely drained. Waterlogging of the soil can lead to the development of root and trunk rot. The diseased plant begins to shed its leaves.It is better to dry out the soil in the pot a little than to allow it to become waterlogged.
Humidity level
Schefflera lives in the tropics, so it prefers high (about 60-70%) humidity, but the plant is quite tolerant of dry air. This allows you not to spray the foliage on an ongoing basis, but periodically the air next to the shefflera can still be humidified, for example, by placing containers with water next to it.
If the air in the room is too dry, you can periodically spray the foliage of the tree using the same water as for irrigation - settled and slightly warm. Dusty leaf blades are periodically wiped with a damp cloth.
The soil
In general, caring for a shefflera is no different from caring for other houseplants. The soil for planting a flower should include clay, nutrient soil and lavalite (2: 2.5: 1), it is also recommended to add quartz sand to the substrate. The resulting mixture should have a slightly acidic reaction. It is permissible to use a mixture of equal parts of peat with sand, leafy soil and humus. Sheffler can also be grown hydroponically.
Top dressing
During the period of active development - from spring to early autumn - the sheffler can be periodically fed using formulations for plants with beautiful foliage. Top dressing is applied monthly in liquid form simultaneously with watering. The dosage of the composition should be reduced: it should be 1/4 of the recommended one. You can also apply dry fertilizers to the soil, but before that, the flower must be watered, otherwise burns may remain on the roots. In winter, during the dormant period of the shefflers, it is not necessary to feed it.
Transfer
Periodically, the sheffler will need to replace the container. Usually, the plant is transplanted every 2-3 years, when its roots begin to protrude from the top of the pot or appear in the drainage holes.
The plant must be prepared for transplantation. A couple of weeks before the procedure, it is fertilized to activate growth, and a few days before moving it is watered abundantly.
Shefflers are transplanted in early spring. The plant is carefully removed from the old pot. If the flower is stuck, the soil is watered a little, and the soil clod is separated from the edges with a sharp tool. The bush is pulled out of the pot by turning it over. In this case, the plant should be held by the trunk. The roots are cleaned of the remnants of old earth and carefully inspected for the presence of decayed areas. If such are found, they are cut off and the cut areas are treated with fungicides or crushed coal. The smoother the cuts are made, the faster they will tighten. Affected or excess shoots should also be removed. When working with the plant, it is important to protect your hands with gloves and use only sterile instruments.
The new container should be about 5 cm wider than the old one. A drainage layer of pebbles or broken bricks is laid at the bottom of the pot. From above to the middle, the container is filled with fresh soil, and the flower itself is placed on it. Having filled up the soil, it is slightly compacted and watered to the sheffler. The roots of the shefflers after transplanting should be located at the level of the edges of the pot.
For some time after transplantation, the plant is not fed. The trimmed roots will need to be revitalized before they can consume nutrients from the soil. Fertilizers can be applied only after the sheffler has finally rooted in a new place.
Pruning
Pruning is an important part of growing shefflers. It is especially important to carry out it for plants that do not have enough light. Branches that violate its shape are removed from the crown. Usually such pruning is carried out in the first half of spring.
First of all, diseased or damaged shoots are removed from the shefflers. This sanitary pruning can be done throughout the year. Too long branches are usually shortened to 2/3 of the length. By trimming the ends of the branches, you can make the crown more lush - this stimulates the formation of lateral shoots. If the shefflera has bloomed, wilted inflorescences will also be pruned. All sections are made directly above the kidney.The remains of branches obtained from pruning can be used for propagation of shefflers as cuttings. To form the most lush plant, you can plant several copies of shefflers in one pot.
Bloom
At home, shefflera blooms very rarely, so it is grown only for the sake of beautiful foliage. In the natural environment, from mid-summer to October, small flowers appear on the branches, collected in umbrella inflorescences. They hang from the shoots, resembling fluffy tentacles. Then, in their place, rounded fruits ripen.
Dormant period
In winter, when shefflers have a dormant period, they try not to expose it to drafts, and also water it less often. Usually, a flower slows down its growth only due to a lack of lighting. If the plant will have enough light and heat, the schedule of watering and feeding can be left unchanged. Usually this is done with specimens growing in conservatories equipped with supplementary lighting or greenhouses.
Breeding methods shefflers
Sheffler can be propagated in several ways. These include cuttings, the use of air layers, as well as seeds.
Cuttings
Cutting is considered the fastest way to get new plants. Usually tree shoots are used for this, although sheffler foliage can also be rooted. Cuttings can be cut from January to March or August. When certain conditions are created, their rooting should not take long. Stem sections are often taken from its middle part, making cuts under the nodes. The length of the cuttings should be about 10-20 cm. The leaf blades are removed from the bottom of the cut, leaving only 3-4 pieces. For the formation of roots, they can be placed in water (ash is added to it to prevent the onset of decay) or immediately planted in the ground. The stalk is placed in a substrate containing a lot of sphagnum and buried by about 1 cm. The seedling is covered with a bag, but it is briefly removed daily for airing. Depending on the light and temperature, these cuttings take root within 1-4 months. At the same time, it is believed that variegated forms take root worse than usual.
Planting in the ground is considered more preferable than germinating in a glass of water. Cuttings are kept in it until they form roots about 4 cm long. After that, they are transplanted into a container, where the young shefflera will grow in the first years of life. But such a fit sometimes leads to damage to the small roots.
Propagation by air layers
Scheffler can also be propagated by air layers. Usually, this method is used by the owners of old, overly large specimens of the plant. Layers begin to form in early spring. Shefflers make a neat incision on the trunk, and then surround this area with a layer of moist sphagnum soaked in nutrient solution. To create a solution, use a weak dosage of mineral dressing (1 g per 1 liter). From above, the moss is strengthened on the trunk with the help of a film. Until roots begin to appear at the cut site, the moisture in the moss in the area of the cut must be monitored. The roots will start to appear a couple of months after the procedure. The same amount of time will be required for their regrowth. Thus, the top of the sheffler will have its own root system. After that, it can be separated from the main plant and transplanted into its own pot. The remaining lower part of the trunk is covered with a layer of moist moss until young lateral branches begin to form on it.
Growing from seeds
It takes several months for sheffler seeds to germinate. They are sown in early spring or mid-summer. A wide container or greenhouse is used for sowing. A universal nutrient soil is suitable as a soil, you can also use compost. The substrate is pre-disinfected. The seeds should also be prepared in advance by keeping them in water for a couple of hours with the addition of Zircon or Epin. After that, the seeds are buried in the ground.It should stay moist until the seeds hatch. The temperature is also of particular importance - it should be approximately 20-25 degrees. Seedlings are ventilated daily; bottom heating can be used to accelerate germination.
When the seedlings get stronger, they are carefully planted in separate pots. For this, at least 2-3 leaves should form on the sprouts. They are placed in small pots and kept at a temperature of about 20 degrees. After a few months, when the seedlings completely cover the soil lump, they are transplanted into pots with a diameter of about 8 cm and transferred to a bright, but cooler (about 14-15 degrees) place. In the autumn period, you can transfer the shefflers to another container.
Growing difficulties
Shefflera is sick most often with improper care. She is very sensitive to stagnation of water in the soil and insufficient amount of light, and also does not like sudden jumps in air temperature (from minimum to maximum) and dry air in the room.
- Leaf shedding occurs at elevated indoor temperatures in summer and low temperatures in winter. Also, leaf fall is possible with excessive soil moisture.
- The surface of the leaf plates becomes faded or covered with light spots under improper lighting. Lack and excess of light equally negatively affect the plant.
- If the foliage has turned black, the shefflera is frozen over.
- Root rot appears when there is a constant excess of irrigation water in the soil.
- Drying tips of brown leaves appear on the plant when there is a lack of moisture in the soil and when the air in the room is dry.
- Small reddish-brown specks on the leaves are a sign of excess light. Large light spots may indicate sunburn.
Diseases and pests
Scheffler is rarely affected by disease or attacked by pests. Because of this, usually any problems with the plant are due to errors in its cultivation.
If aphids have appeared on the branches of the shefflers, a small amount of pests will help remove an ordinary warm shower. Most insect species do not perceive high humidity well, therefore, washing them off the bush and restoring proper care for the shefflera, you can cope with aphids.
Dry air and heat can lead to the appearance of a spider mite, sometimes a mealybug attacks the sheffler. You can try to control such pests with a soapy solution. The stems and foliage of the plant are washed with it. If there are too many pests, it is recommended to use systemic insecticides or acaricides.
Scale lesions can be confused with natural growths on sheffler stems. If there are brownish convex areas on the shoots of the plant, they can be the rudiments of aerial roots. If such an outgrowth is not separated from the stem with a fingernail, this is its normal form. If the build-up is easily removed, it is a pest.
The most common sheffler disease is root rot. It is caused by fungi that develop due to excess soil moisture. In advanced cases, such rot can completely destroy the tree. To avoid this, it is important to pay attention to the symptoms. In this case, the foliage of the sheffler will begin to turn yellow, the shoots may turn black, and an unpleasant and characteristic smell will begin to emanate from the ground in the pot.
The affected sheffler should be carefully removed from the pot, completely clear the roots of old soil and remove all rotten parts. Sections must be treated with a fungicide solution, and then the plant is moved to a new container using fresh substrate.
Sometimes the sheffler is affected by other fungal diseases. Their signs can be seen on the foliage - it begins to become covered with dark spots with a yellow outline. They spread quickly through the foliage, starting from the outside. Often, such diseases begin to occur on trees weakened by transplantation. Sometimes an already infected plant is brought from a store or the infection manifests itself when growing purchased seeds.At first, such purchases should be kept away from other plants to make sure that they are healthy.
A fungicidal preparation can help with most fungal diseases, but bacterial diseases are considered more dangerous. You can get rid of them only at a very early stage, by removing all affected branches from the tree in time. The treated sheffler is quarantined and waited to see if she can recover after a similar procedure.
Most often, bacterial infections appear as small watery specks along the edges of the leaf. Without taking appropriate measures, they begin to grow rapidly, merge, turn black and lead to the fall of the leaf plates. The infection gradually spreads throughout the plant.
The best prevention against any infections will be the timely examination of the sheffler and the observance of the basic conditions of caring for her. So fungal spores take root best on wet foliage. Carriers of bacterial diseases quickly become stronger on it. Because of this, it is recommended not to spray the plant, but to use other methods to increase the moisture level. If the leaves of the shefflers were washed or sprayed, or droplets got on them during watering, you should carefully wipe them dry.
There are other precautions as well. A healthy sheffler is kept away from diseased plants. If signs of infection appear on its leaves, such plates should be removed faster. Air circulation inside the crown is of great importance. With the help of pruning, its density should be regulated by removing the branches that thicken it. There should also be sufficient space between flowers on a window or shelf.
Waiting for the appearance of obvious symptoms of the disease or delaying treatment, the florist risks losing the plant. To be sure to avoid this, weakened specimens and shefflers recovering from root damage should be treated as a preventive measure. Such a sheffler is treated with a fungicidal or bactericidal preparation according to the instructions. Good immunity to the plant will also help to create timely feeding.
Types and varieties of shefflers with photos and names
As a rule, the following types of shefflers can be found at home:
Schefflera radiant (Schefflera actinophylla)
The most popular type. Schefflera actinophylla is also called the "octopus tree". In nature, its growth reaches 15 m. In this case, the plant is considered a semi-epiphyte that lives on other trees. The length of the inflorescences reaches 2 m and includes many burgundy flowers, rich in nectar. Many animals and birds feed on the fruits of such shefflers. Sometimes such trees are able to grow significantly, turning into an invading weed.
In potting conditions, such a sheffler can grow up to 3 m. Its growth rate is very high. Each leaf umbrella contains up to 16 green leaves. Their length reaches 15 cm, and their width is about 5 cm.The ends of the lobes are slightly blunt.
- Starleaf - sometimes this is called a radiant species. It is distinguished by reddish shoots and shiny leaf blades. The leaves can be olive, bright green or golden.
Schefflera digitata
More compact view with dissected leaf blades. Each lobe of Schefflera digitata is pointed at the end. The color of the sheet is monochromatic or has overflows. The peculiarity of the species is the wavy edges of the leaves and bright contrasting veins.
Schefflera arboricola
The size of this species rarely exceeds 1 m. As the branch grows, such shefflers grow stiff. Careful pruning allows the tree to form a beautiful crown with dark green foliage. Schefflera arboricola is especially valued for its high resistance to fungal infections and pests.
- Variegated - under this name, shefflers are united with beautiful spotted leaves. They are painted in a rich green color and are complemented by cream or yellow spots. Such plants are not so common in home floriculture, but they are considered one of the most elegant.
Schefflera octophylla
The species is considered quite rare. The young foliage of such a sheffler is olive-colored and has prominent veins. Older leaves become light green in color. Each umbrella includes up to 12 shares. On the outside, the leaf blades of Schefflera octophylla are shiny, and on the inside, matte.
Schefflera Louisiana
A species characterized by spectacular foliage of a juicy shade. In Schefflera Louisiana, they are covered with lighter specks.
Among the most popular plant varieties:
- Bianca - the variety is notable for the original color of the foliage. Such a plant can bloom only in greenhouse conditions. In this case, its height reaches 2.5 m, while in nature such a sheffler sometimes grows up to 20 m.
- Janine - a small-leaved variety, the leaf blades of which are blurred in color and include several shades of cream and green at once. The edges of the foliage are feathery, rounded.
- Nora - the foliage of this variety is of medium size and is colored in a light shade of green with neat yellow blotches. There are notches on the edges of the leaves. By trimming such a plant, you can form a lush tree.
- Gerda - refers to tree varieties. The foliage is usually green in color, but sometimes has large areas of yellow.
- Melanie - this variety does not grow too much in breadth, therefore it is considered very compact.
- Gold Capella - variegated variety with a straight trunk, because of which from the side it may slightly resemble a palm tree. When grown in a pot, the height of such a plant can reach up to 1.2 m.
- Amate - a beautiful variety with glossy leaf blades. It is considered resistant to pests and diseases. Unlike most, the sheffler is considered shade-tolerant.
Most of the leaves sag and turn black, but there are good ones, how does this happen? Means not overflow, I understand.
Sprayed every 2 days with water at room temperature. As soon as they began to turn black, I stopped, I read that in winter I need it less often.
Far from the battery, the light from the window gets in well, there is no draft.
What's what, how to treat?
Me too! What to do ?
Try to transplant, and it is better to replace the old soil as much as possible. Buy fertilizer will help!
Good day! In the office, the plant has grown to the ceiling. Can I partially cut it?
Can be trimmed. the rest of the lower part will "bush".
Put the cut part in water, into which you can add root powder, after the roots appear, plant in a pot.
Doesn't like light, too much
The cuttings were given roots, planted in a pot. For two weeks they stood beautiful, and then the stem began to turn yellow, pulled it out of the ground, and there were no roots, it just started to rot. Tell me what you did wrong? Several leaves are still standing, it may be possible to save them
The roots rotted from the overflow of the soil. When transplanting, the shefler is watered only after a couple of days. She has enough moisture in the soil. I also made this mistake some time ago ... Only the 4th Sheflera got accustomed, and now I ‘breed’ it successfully.
Please tell me why some kind of stickiness has formed on the leaves ... ??
Perhaps a scale insect has settled on your plant. Take a closer look at the leaves of the plant, just this villain can fit on them. It looks like small elongated or round buns of 1-2 mm, does not move, if you pry these buns with something, they are scraped off like plasticine or soft wax. On the Internet, you can find how to fight.
I had the same situation.Sheflera was with sticky leaves. I covered the pot with cellophane to sew up the soil, wiped the leaves several times with a sponge moistened with laundry soap. Then she wiped the soap clean. I had to tinker, but the result was not long in coming. Now the flower is healthy! Try it, good luck!
I had the same story with dracaena. A scale insect settled on it. The leaves became sticky. Everything passed when I washed each sheet with tar soap on both sides, let it stand for 30 minutes and washed it off. And before that, what I didn’t do, nothing helped.
Please tell me why the leaves are falling? What to do?
My flower leaves the same. What to do?
Please tell me. I have a flower for four months. Does not grow in height. Growth does not change about 10 cm, but the upper leaves increase in size, already larger than the palm. The top is green. The mother flower is tall with small leaves, in half a year it has grown by 50 cm.
Please tell me, I wanted to multiply the cheflekru. I cut off the cuttings and put in the water. Should it give a root, or should it immediately be planted in the ground?
Saule, you don't need to get into the ground right away, you did everything right. Now have patience, I had a chef in the water for at least a month before giving the roots.
I planted it in the ground. And she grew up normally.
Please tell me, my flower leaves turn black and then fall out, what should I do?
I water it once a week, but I have it in a dark room, maybe because of this, eh?
Really looking forward to the answer.
Thank!
She planted a variegated sheffler a year ago ... for the whole year she put in one outlet, now she sits ... does not die and does not grow, the roots are already beginning to be seen from the pot. What's wrong with her?
I started watering the roots that were sticking out of the bottom of the pot, pouring over the pan every day. a week later she started up about 15 arrows. I water the earth 2 times a week, little by little.
Please tell me how to deal with the shield on the boss !? There is little information on the Internet, just spray or water. The affected leaves can be removed and transplanted into new soil, this scabbard can also be in the soil. Really looking forward to the answer! Thank.
I stood in the water for 2 weeks, did not let the roots, then planted them in the ground. It took 1.5 years, long roots and thickened nodules.
I bought a sheffler, stands on a special flower stand at the highest place, I bought a floor lamp especially for her, I water it twice a week, I sprinkle it twice a day, but the leaves are poured without stopping, and the sheffler itself does not grow! Explain how to save and care for her!
Hello. My boss threw out all the leaves from below and do not grow there, only the tops ... What should I do so that the leaves appear from below?
I fought with the scabbard manually for a long time, then got tired, poured Aktara with the drug. At first I was afraid of them, I thought I would ruin the plants, but when two pots disappeared because of the shield, I already thought what would happen. It helped the first time, diluted, as it says on the package.
Hello. A pot with a flowerpot was accidentally dropped and the top leaves broke. Now ugly will be right? 😢
Put the leaves in the water, they will give roots, and the crown will grow overgrown with new leaves, but the process is not quick!
Hello! For some reason, my boss's trunk is not straight, but tilted to the side. Turned over in different directions to the light, does not straighten. What to do?
Give the plant support