The bladder plant (Physocarpus) is a shrub from the Pink family. This genus includes about 10-14 species that live on the North American continent, as well as in the east of Asia. The Russian name for the vesicle corresponds to the translation from the Latin. It is related to the shape of the fruit of the bush.
Bubbles are fast growing and easy to care for, and are considered resistant to air pollution. Bladder bushes retain their attractive appearance throughout the warm season. They are used singly or in group plantings, combined with other ornamental shrubs, or planted as a green hedge. Often, bladders that are undemanding to care can be found in green spaces along highways and railways.
Description of the vesicle
Bladder bushes have drooping shoots that make up a sprawling spherical crown. The bark of adult specimens gradually begins to exfoliate from the trunk. The size of the bushes reaches 3 m. The alternate foliage resembles viburnum a little and has from 3 to 5 blades. The color of the leaves may vary by cultivar. Often, their shade can change up to several times per season. The surface of the leaf can be bare or pubescent.
The inflorescences of the vesicle are in the form of a shield, forming a hemisphere up to 7 cm in diameter. They are made up of small white (or pinkish) flowers with 5 petals and many long stamens. Flowering occurs at the beginning of summer, but the fruits of the bush, which gave it the name - swollen leaflets, look no less impressive. As they mature, they turn red.
In horticulture, only two of the existing types of vesicle are used. But on their basis, many spectacular varieties of shrubs were obtained, differing in the color of the foliage.
Brief rules for growing a vesicle
The table shows brief rules for growing a bladder in the open field.
Landing | Bubbles with a closed root system can be planted throughout the warm season - from spring to autumn. It is recommended to plant seedlings with an open root system in autumn (less often spring). |
Lighting level | A bright and open corner, away from large plantings, will do. Green-leaved varieties can also tolerate partial shade. |
Watering mode | In hot and dry summers, watering is carried out about twice a week. The rest of the time, the bushes may have enough rainfall. |
The soil | The composition of the soil is not critical, but it should not contain lime. |
Top dressing | Top dressing of the bladderworm is carried out twice a season - in spring and autumn.You can also use special compositions intended for ornamental shrubs. |
Bloom | Flowering usually begins in early summer. |
Pruning | The bushes will need regular pruning to maintain a healthy and attractive appearance. |
Reproduction | Seeds, cuttings, layering, bush division. |
Pests | Pests almost never infect the vesicles. |
Diseases | Chlorosis, powdery mildew, rot. |
Planting the vesicle in open ground
Landing dates
The timing of planting the bladder plant in the ground depends on what type of seedling it was possible to acquire. If the root system of young bushes was closed, such specimens can be planted throughout the warm season - from spring to autumn. It is recommended to plant seedlings with an open root system in autumn (less often spring).
For the bladder, a bright and open corner, remote from large plantings, is suitable - if their roots are shallow, they will interfere with the development of the bush. Green-leaved varieties can tolerate partial shade, in other cases, the color of the leaves may change from lack of light. The composition of the soil is not critical, but it should not contain lime. Care should also be taken to have good drainage. Loose and nutritious loam is best suited for bladders. It is important to avoid places where water stagnates for a long time.
Landing rules
When planting the bladder, the degree of deepening of the bush plays an important role, so a hole for it should be prepared in advance - about a couple of weeks before planting. Its depth should slightly exceed the size of the root system of the seedling - a layer of fertile soil will need to be laid on the bottom of the pit, including peat, turf, garden soil and sand. During this period, the land must have time to settle. There is no need to add fertilizers when planting - young plants will not be able to assimilate them properly.
If the bladder is growing in a container, it should be watered 10 minutes before planting to facilitate the extraction process. The seedling is placed in the prepared hole by the transfer method so that its root collar is strictly at ground level. The voids are filled with nutritious soil. After that, the seedling is watered abundantly and, if necessary, the soil is poured into the hole. For the first time after planting, the area next to the plant should remain slightly damp. It can also be covered with a layer of mulch - peat or humus.
To create a hedge, seedlings must be distributed in a checkerboard pattern. About 35 cm is left between the rows, and about 45 cm between individual bushes on the same row.
Bladder care
Watering
The bubblegum is considered a fairly moisture-loving plant and does not tolerate periods of drought. But when watering, the stream of water should be directed directly under the roots of the plant so that drops do not fall on foliage and flowers. Otherwise, they may get burned. Additionally, you can insure the bladderworm from them by watering in the morning or in the evening. In hot and dry summers, watering is carried out about twice a week. One bush should take about 4 buckets of water, but overflow should not be allowed either. It is especially important to monitor this on heavy soils. Frequent waterlogging can lead to powdery mildew. The rest of the time, the bushes may have enough rainfall. If the area near the bushes has not been mulched, after each watering or rain, the soil in the near-trunk circle is loosened a little and weeded.
Top dressing
If young bushes were planted in fertile soil, at first they are not fed. In the future, the feeding of the vesicle is carried out twice a season - in spring and autumn. In the spring, you can use a mullein solution (0.5 kg per 1 bucket of water), adding ammonium nitrate or urea (1 tablespoon each) to it. For a large bush, 1.5 buckets of fertilizer will be enough. In the fall, 1-1.5 buckets of another solution are poured under each plant - at the rate of 2 tbsp. tablespoons of nitroammophoska for 10 liters of water.You can also use special compositions intended for ornamental shrubs.
Pruning
The bladder grows at a fast pace, so regular pruning will be required to maintain a healthy and attractive appearance. It is performed using sterile instruments. They can be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate, alcohol composition, etc. For the procedure, choose a dry but cloudy day or spend it in the evening.
In the spring, before the buds bloom, the bush is sanitized: all frost-beaten, diseased or broken branches are removed from it, as well as those that contribute to the thickening of its crown. Sanitary pruning can be done throughout the season as branches emerge to be removed. If shoots with simple green foliage appear on varietal plants, it is also recommended to cut them off.
After the flowering of the bladder, if necessary, formative pruning of bushes older than a year can be carried out. The bladder is easy to cut, so literally any green shape can be formed from it. Most often, gardeners do not resort to a complex curly haircut, which requires constant maintenance of shape, but simply try to give the bush a neat look. To make it resemble a green fountain, all thin shoots are cut off at the very base, leaving only 5-6 of the strongest branches in the middle of the bush. They can be shortened slightly. To obtain a lush and wide bush, all branches are cut at half a meter height. A spherical crown is formed by cutting off the tips of the branches. If the bushes form a hedge, they are trimmed up to 4 times per season, starting before bud break.
Adult specimens that have reached 6 years of age can be radically rejuvenated by gradually cutting deeply all branches to a hemp. The largest sections are processed with a garden varnish or other similar means. The need for deep rejuvenation can be judged by the state of the bush. Older plants begin to bloom weaker, the size of the flowers decreases, and even the foliage begins to thin out. After such pruning, you need to look after the bush more carefully.
In the fall, the pruning of the vesicle is sent for a successful wintering. Strong cold can only endure strong and healthy shoots, so all the rest will only worsen the frost resistance of the plant. During this period, all dry and broken branches that can become a source of diseases are removed from the bush. They should be burned. If desired, it is possible to form a bush in the autumn period, but after a strong pruning for the winter it is better to cover it.
Transfer
If necessary, even an adult vesicle can be transplanted to another area of the garden. Transplants are carried out in early spring, before the buds swell, or in the fall, when the bushes have already shed their leaves. First, the vesicle is cut off, removing diseased or excess shoots. The remaining branches are shortened, leaving only 20-30 cm in length. This will help reduce stress on the roots.
The older the transplanted bush, the wider its root system will be. In order not to damage it, the plant is carefully dug in, trying not to touch the roots. After that, the vesicle is pulled out of the ground along with the soil clod and transferred to a new place, acting in the same way as when planting. The displaced plant is abundantly watered with a solution of a root formation stimulator. It is also recommended to spray its stems with Epin or another drug that stimulates the bush's immunity and helps to reduce the stress caused by transplanting.
Bubbles in winter
Shrub care in the fall
By autumn, the vesicles become the most decorative: their foliage acquires a beautiful bright color. Although the bushes have good frost resistance, unripe shoots can freeze out in winter. When the plants shed their leaves, they must be carefully examined and any weak or damaged branches that risk not surviving the winter should be cut off.
Preparing for winter
Young seedlings, as well as plants obtained from cuttings or cuttings, must be covered without fail. Adult bushes are covered only with the threat of a too frosty winter. The root area must be mulched with peat about 5-8 cm thick. Then the branches are carefully pulled together with twine, fixed on top with a rolled sheet of roofing material and wrapped with a layer of lutrasil. After pruning, young plants are mulched and covered with a layer of spruce branches.
Pests and diseases
The gallbladder has good resistance to diseases and pests. But bushes growing on poor soil can suffer from chlorosis. In this case, the tops of the shoots may dry out, and the fresh leaves may turn yellow. With such symptoms, it is necessary to spray the foliage or water the bladder with a preparation containing iron in a form accessible to the plant. Iron Chelate is best suited for this. Such measures will allow the plant to recover quickly.
If the bushes are located in lowlands or grow in heavy soil, and they are watered too often, rot can develop on the roots of the bladder. The leaves of such bushes wither and dry up, powdery mildew appears on them. The affected branches must be cut and burned. If possible, the care of the plant should be adjusted or transplanted to a more suitable place.
Pests almost never infect the vesicles, therefore, the bushes do not need special prophylactic treatments.
Methods for reproduction of the vesicle
Growing from seeds
Along with several vegetative methods for producing new plants, the bladder can be grown from seed. They are sown in spring or autumn. Due to the fact that the seeds require stratification, winter sowing can be used. If the bladderworm is sown for seedlings, the seeds are preliminarily kept in the refrigerator for about 1-2 months. Mixed with sand, they are sown in a container with moistened soil. When three leaves are formed on the sprouts, you can make a pick. When the sprouts get stronger and develop enough, they can be planted in separate containers. The seedlings are transferred to the ground when warm weather sets in. Seedlings will need preliminary hardening. Sowing directly to the garden is possible. But such reproduction does not guarantee the transfer of varietal color of the foliage, and also requires more time and effort. Most often, species specimens are propagated in this way.
The fastest way to get new vesicles is by cutting, dividing or forming layers.
Cuttings
Cuttings from the vesicle are cut before the plant begins to bloom. For this, fresh green twigs are used. Each of them should be about 10-20 cm long and 2-3 internodes. The branches should not bend. All foliage at the bottom of the cut is removed, and the top is cut in half. After these procedures, the cuttings are immersed in a solution of a root formation stimulator, and then planted in a peat-sand mixture, on a prepared bed. Watered seedlings are covered with caps or foil. Further care will include airing and watering. Rooted seedlings should overwinter under cover. In the spring, young vesicles are moved to a chosen location. Seedlings begin to bloom in the 4th year of cultivation.
Reproduction by layering
The method of forming layering is considered the easiest and most reliable. In the spring, a healthy and strong shoot is found outside the bush. It is cleaned of leaves, leaving them only at the very top, and then placed in a previously prepared groove about 12 cm deep. The shoot is fixed with a wooden bracket, and then the groove is filled with earth. They try to fix the end of the shoot in an upright position, tying it to a support. All summer long, the layers are watered, and the surrounding area is cleared of weeds. By the fall, the cuttings should form their own root system. At the same time or next spring, it is separated from the main plant. The first year after rooting, the cuttings should be covered for the winter.For some time after separation, the young bush is left in the same place so that it grows a more powerful root system.
How to propagate by dividing a bush
Best of all, the division procedure is tolerated by the Kalinolisty view of the vesicle. It is carried out in spring or autumn, although experienced gardeners can divide the bushes in summer. Speed is of particular importance in summer division - a bush extracted from the ground must be divided and planted very quickly so that the exposed roots do not have time to dry out.
All shoots are cut at a level of 70 cm, then the plant is dug up, the roots are cleaned from the soil and divided into parts. Each of the resulting divisions must have its own shoots and a sufficient number of roots. From a large plant, no more than 5-6 bushes are obtained. Delenki are immersed in a pale solution of potassium permanganate, and then planted in prepared places.
Types and varieties of bladderworm with photos and names
In gardens, only two types of vesicle are most often found, as well as their varieties and shapes.
Amur bubblegum (Physocarpus amurensis)
This species comes from Asia: it can be found in the forests of the Far East, as well as in North Korea and northern regions of China. Bushes Physocarpus amurensis have a spherical crown, and their height reaches 3 m. Young shoots have a smooth red-brown surface. As the crust grows, it begins to flake off in stripes. The foliage has 3-5 lobes and a heart-shaped base. The length of the leaf plates reaches 10 cm. From the outside, they are dark green, and from the inside, they are grayish due to tomentose pubescence.
Inflorescences are in the form of scutes. Each includes up to 15 white flowers. The size of the flowers reaches 1.5 cm. Flowering lasts about 3 weeks. After flowering, leafy fruits are formed, gradually acquiring a red color. In culture, such a vesicle has been used since the middle of the 19th century. This species is particularly frost-resistant and is often used to form green hedges, as well as simply to decorate the garden. Its most common forms are:
- Aureomarginate - foliage has a dark golden border.
- Luteus - in the summer, the foliage has a bright yellow color, and by autumn it turns bronze. The same bush in partial shade will have yellow-green leaves.
- Nana - dwarf form with rich green foliage.
Bubble plant (Physocarpus opulifolius)
In nature, such a vesicle lives in the east of the North American continent. Physocarpus opulifolius has a hemispherical crown. The bushes grow up to 3 meters in height. Foliage with an elongated middle lobe has 3-5 lobes and denticles at the edge. From the outside, the plates are colored green, and from the inside they have a lighter shade, and occasionally pubescence. The flowers grow up to 1.2 cm in diameter. They are white or pinkish in color and have red stamens. After flowering, pale green leaflets are formed, turning red as they ripen. This species came into cultivation about 10 years later than the Amur species, but today it is found in gardens no less often. Among the main varieties:
- Darts Gold - forms dense spreading bushes up to 1.5 m tall. The foliage changes color from yellow to greenish and then to golden bronze. The cluster inflorescences are formed by white or pinkish flowers.
- Diablo — this variety is also called red-leaved. Bushes reach 3 m in height. The leaf blades are purple or burgundy. In bright sun, their color will turn red, and in shading - green with a purple tint. Due to this feature, this variety is considered especially popular. In autumn, the color of the leaves does not change.
- Lady in Red - English variety, forming one and a half meter bushes. The foliage is colored red and begins to darken by autumn. The flowers are colored light pink.
- Red Baron - bushes up to 2 m high have bare oval foliage, divided into 3-5 blades. The length of the plates reaches 7 cm. There are denticles along the edge of the sheet. The color of the foliage is dark red.Umbrella inflorescences are formed by white flowers with a pink tint. The diameter of the inflorescence reaches 5 cm. The leaflets, when ripe, turn red.
Bubble plant in landscape design
Frequent use in landscaping areas, along roads, railways, in group plantings, in decorating fences due to the unpretentiousness of the bladder to growing conditions. The ability of the shrub to grow quickly and calmly tolerate air pollution, as well as its decorative properties, made the bladder a favorite of many landscape designers.