Climbing roses

Climbing roses are the generalized name for several types of rose hips and garden rose varieties that have especially long shoots. All these plants belong to the Rosehip genus.

The high popularity of these types is associated with the ability to use them in vertical gardening. Such roses are able to decorate fences, trellises or walls of garden buildings. Often, roses are woven over decorative objects of the garden - arches, columns, they create compositions from them or combine with other flowers. Climbing roses allow you to make the garden more romantic and picturesque, but they require quite careful maintenance.

Description of climbing rose

There is no single description of climbing roses - this group of plants is too diverse and includes different types of flowers. But for the convenience of gardeners, a classification was developed, according to which all such roses are divided into three main groups according to the flexibility of the shoots and the size of the flowers:

First group: curly (or ramblers)

The group is obtained on the basis of a multi-flowered rose and a vichura. These flowers are distinguished by long and very flexible stems, either arched or creeping. Shoots are bright green and covered with thorns. The length of the shoots can exceed 5 m. The glossy foliage has a leathery surface and is medium-sized. Flowers on such roses can differ in different structures: be simple or have a different degree of doubleness. The diameter of the flower is small and does not exceed 2.5 cm. Such roses have a weak aroma. Individual flowers are part of the inflorescences located along the entire length of the shoot. They appear in fairly large numbers throughout the month. Most often, flowering occurs in the first half of summer. A sufficient number of varieties of such roses have good frost resistance, only a small shelter will help them survive severe cold.

Second group: climbing (or climbers, climbers)

This type of rose is considered large-flowered. It was obtained by crossing plants of the climbing group with tea (hybrid and remontant) roses, as well as with varieties of the floribunda group. The shoots of such roses are slightly shorter - only up to 4 m. In comparison with the branches of climbing roses, they are thicker and less flexible. At the same time, the diameter of the flowers exceeds 4 cm, in shape they resemble hybrid tea varieties.The flowers form small, loose inflorescences and appear in large numbers. Plants of this group have good frost resistance, and are also notable for their immunity to powdery mildew disease.

Third group: claimings

This group of roses is often combined with the second. Such plants are considered sports mutants of bush varieties (grandiflora, floribunda and hybrid tea) with large flowers. The main difference between this group is high growth rates and impressive flower sizes (from 4 to 11 cm). Flowers can be singly or form small inflorescences. In addition, these roses can bear fruit at the very end of the season. Many varieties of this group have a second flowering wave. But it will be possible to grow such roses only in warm regions with mild winters, they are more sensitive to cold weather than the varieties from which they originated.

Brief rules for growing climbing roses

The table shows brief rules for growing climbing roses in the open field.

Planting climbing roses in open ground

The best time and place to land

Any roses combine beauty with whimsy, and climbing roses are no exception. To grow such a flower and allow it to fully reveal its decorative qualities, it is necessary to comply with all the requirements for caring for it.

Before planting for climbing roses, you need to choose the best site. A place that is lit in the morning is most suitable. The morning sun will help dry the bushes from dew, thereby protecting them from the development of fungal diseases. In the afternoon, when the rays become more scorching, the bushes should be in the shade. Otherwise, burn spots may appear on foliage or flower petals.

Climbing roses are very sensitive to cold winds, therefore, on the north side, the planting area should be closed from drafts. Because of this feature, it is not recommended to place rose gardens at the corners of buildings and structures. Stronger gusts of wind in these parts of the garden can negatively affect the health of the bushes. Roses are usually planted on the warmer, south side of houses. But they should not be placed close to the wall. The distance from the bushes to the nearest structure should be at least half a meter. A pink bed can have the same width.

When choosing a soil for planting climbing roses, you need to make sure that water does not stagnate in it. Before disembarking, you should also assess the depth of the location of the groundwater. If their level is too high and goes close to the soil surface, roses can only be planted on pre-created elevations. This is due to the fact that the roots of some varieties can go deep into the ground by about 2 m.To prevent water from stagnating in the root system of the bushes, you should choose a place for the garden with a slight slope.

Loam is considered the best soil for planting. Sandy soils are pre-dug by adding clay to them.On the contrary, sand is introduced into clay soil. At the same time, the land must be supplemented with humus or humus. Bone meal will also be useful - this substance is rich in phosphorus, which is necessary for plants. The preparation of the planting bed is usually carried out in advance - about six months before planting. In extreme cases, at least a month should pass from digging to disembarkation.

The best time to plant climbing roses in a temperate climate is the first half of autumn. But sometimes roses are planted in the second half of spring.

Planting in autumn

Before purchasing planting material, it is important to remember its main varieties. The peculiarities of planting purchased plants depend on this knowledge. Roses with their own roots can be found on sale, as well as varieties grafted onto rosehip bushes. This type of seedlings requires some handling. Grafting on them does not have its own roots - the entire root system belongs only to the main plant: rose hips. So that after transplanting such a bush does not disappear, it must be buried in the ground so that the grafted area is about 10 cm in the ground.This placement will lead to the fact that the grafted rose will begin to develop its roots and eventually turn into an independent rose bush. In this case, the spike roots will die off as unnecessary. Incorrect placement often leads to the death of the seedling. This is due to the difference in the developmental characteristics of rose hips and roses. The first is a deciduous plant, while the scion is usually considered evergreen.

If the purchased seedling has an open root system, it should be kept in a bucket of water for about a day before planting. After this procedure, all leaves are removed from the plant and too young or damaged stems are removed with a pruning shears. The root system of the bush is also subject to pruning - only 30 cm of its length is left. All shoots are subject to the same shortening. Places of cuts are processed with crushed coal.

Before planting a grafted seedling, you should carefully examine it and remove all buds below the scion area. If they are not removed, rosehip shoots will begin to develop from the buds. Also, before planting, the plant must be disinfected by dipping it in a 3% solution of copper sulfate.

To plant climbing roses, you need a fairly large hole 50 by 50 cm.If several plants are planted at once, the distance between them should be at least a meter. The top layer of soil is preliminarily removed and mixed with manure (half a bucket will be enough). Part of the resulting substrate is poured into the hole, and then watered abundantly. All this should be done about a couple of days before the direct planting of the bushes.

Before planting, seedlings must also be prepared. Their roots are treated with a special solution that will protect the plant. For its preparation, 1 table is dissolved in 0.5 l of water. Heteroauxin and 3 tablets. Phosphorobacterin. The finished solution is poured into a clay mash (9.5 l). The roots of the rose should be lowered into it just before moving the bush into the planting hole. The bush is placed on a small mound formed from a mixture of earth and manure. The roots of the plant are carefully straightened, not forgetting to deepen the grafting area a sufficient distance. When planting self-rooted roses, the root collar should be buried at least 5 cm. After that, the hole is covered with the remnants of the soil-manure mixture, tamping the soil well.

The planted plants are watered abundantly. After absorbing moisture and settling the earth, manure soil is poured into the hole again, and then the bushes are piled up to a height of at least 20 cm.

Planting in spring

Autumn plantings develop more actively than spring ones, and quickly overtake them in size. Climbing roses planted in spring are considered more demanding and require more careful maintenance. Before planting such seedlings, their roots are cut to a length of 30 cm, and the stems - up to 15-20 cm.After planting, the bushes are also watered and hilled. From above, they should be covered with a film, organizing an impromptu greenhouse. The shelter is briefly removed daily for airing - at first a few minutes will be enough. Gradually, the residence time of the bush in the air is increased. After the threat of frost has completely passed, the film is removed completely, and the area near the bush is mulched with peat or something else. If the seedlings of roses are planted in late spring, when the warm weather has finally established, and it is already dry enough outside, the holes are mulched immediately after planting.

Climbing rose care

To maintain the beauty and health of the climbing rose, you should regularly take care of the flower. The main procedures for caring for plantings will consist in the timely implementation of standard activities - watering, feeding and pruning, as well as regularly checking for the presence of pests or signs of disease. Roses will also need adequate support.

Watering

Climbing roses are considered drought-resistant plants, therefore they do not need abundant watering. But too dry weather can lead to inhibition of the development of the bush, as well as the shrinking of its flowers. In order not to overmoisten the soil, the plants should be watered relatively often, but in moderation. When watering every 7-10 days, one bush can take up to 20 liters of water, but the exact amount depends on the amount of precipitation. To prevent water from flowing out of the hole, it should be surrounded by a small earthen rampart. A few days after such watering, it is necessary to loosen the area around the bush to a depth of 5-6 cm. This will increase the flow of air to the roots of the plant, and will also contribute to the preservation of moisture in the soil. Mulching will help reduce the need for loosening and watering.

Top dressing

Young seedlings of climbing roses will not need feeding until the very end of the summer season. During this period, enough nutrients remain in the soil for their full development. Closer to autumn, the bushes are fed with liquid potash compounds. This top dressing will help prepare the flower for winter. Wood ash infusions can be used as fertilizers.

From the second year of the seedling's life, organic matter and mineral compositions are alternately introduced into the soil. Bushes from 3 years old and older are fed exclusively with organic matter. As an optimal nutritional composition, you can use a solution of manure or other similar fertilizer (1 liter) and wood ash (1 tbsp) per 10 liters of water. During the period of active growth of plantings, they should be fed about 5 times, but during flowering roses should not be fertilized.

Support installation

Climbing roses need the presence of a support, but its type and material can be chosen completely freely. There are many ready-made arches, grilles and fixings made of wood or metal on the market. For this purpose, you can adapt the boards or twigs already in the garden, an old tree or a wall of any building. When placing roses next to buildings, it should be remembered that they must grow from them at a distance of at least half a meter. For attaching the stems to the wall, guides or gratings are placed on which the plants can cling. The support should be placed at a distance of 30-50 cm from the bushes.

The sooner the bush is put on a support, the better. Usually it is installed simultaneously with the planting of seedlings. Unlike vines, which are woven by themselves, roses need to be fixed on supports. The correct garter allows you to form a more beautiful shrub, protect its shoots from damage and promote more abundant flowering. The location of the pink shoots on the support plays an important role in their bud formation. So when the stems are horizontal or at a slight angle, flowers will form along their entire length. If the stems are given a vertical position, only the top of the shoot can bloom, because it will actively develop in length.Therefore, before letting the shoots up, it is necessary to wait for the formation of flower buds or bend the tops of the shoots to stimulate the growth of lateral flowering branches. For the convenience of autumn removal, branches are spiraled onto the vertical supports.

For the garter, they usually use plastic twine, holders or special garter belts made of synthetic fibers. It is not recommended to fasten roses with wire, even if it was previously wrapped in a softer material - paper or textiles. Such a solution will become too traumatic for the bush. Materials that absorb moisture are also not used - they can become a source of bacteria. They try to securely fasten the shoots on the support so that the stem is not damaged, leaving room for its subsequent thickening. Periodically, the attachment points and the support itself are inspected, making sure of their reliability. A growing bush with long shoots has a lot of weight, in addition, the support can tilt from a strong wind. A break in the twine or problems with the support can cause significant damage to the bush, so a timely inspection will insure against such a nuisance.

Supports made of plastic or wood are considered safer for plants than metal ones. The latter heat up in the heat and become too cold at night. But plastic structures can be too fragile for heavy bushes, and wooden supports can cause disease. To avoid this, they should be looked after. Every year, before the garter, such a structure must be cleaned and painted, and with therapeutic and prophylactic spraying, treat it together with the bush.

Transfer

Adult plants need replanting only if they grow in an unsuitable place, which is why they often get sick or suffer from cold and wind. The transplant of climbing roses must be carried out in the first half of autumn so that the bush has time to take root before frost. Sometimes the transplant is carried out in the spring, but in this case it is necessary to have time to complete all the procedures before the buds on the bushes begin to wake up.

Before moving, the shoots of the bush are detached from the support. In climbing varieties, fresh shoots are not removed, but simply pinched their tops at the end of August. Such actions will contribute to their stiffness. Shoots older than 2 years of age must be pruned. For roses of other groups, all long shoots must be shortened by half.

The bush, freed from the support and cut off, is carefully dug round in a circle, stepping back from the center by about 2 bayonets of the shovel. The root system of the bushes can go to an impressive depth, but you need to try to dig it out entirely. The less damage is done to it, the better the rose will be able to withstand the transplant. The removed bush is cleaned of the ground and its root system is carefully examined. All unhealthy or dangling root tips are removed with pruning shears. After that, the bush can be moved to a new location. There, its roots are carefully straightened, and then sprinkled with soil and trampled down the trunk circle. The transplanted bush is properly watered, and a few days after the final shrinkage, the necessary soil is poured and the plant is spud.

Pruning climbing roses

When to prune climbing roses

Climbing roses need to be pruned regularly. Such actions will allow you to form the crown of the plant, add splendor to the flowering and give the bush a neater look. Pruning properly will also allow roses to bloom for longer. Pruning is usually done in the spring or fall.

Most of the inflorescences of these roses are formed on the stems of the last year. At the beginning of the growth period, dry stems and frost-bitten areas of branches are removed from all groups of plants. At the same time, the tips of the branches are shortened to the strongest bud. Subsequent pruning will be more individual - they are related to the number of flowering waves of a particular variety.

How to prune

Climbing rose varieties that bloom only once per warm season form flowers on last year's branches.Faded (basal) shoots are replaced by young, regenerative ones. Their number reaches 10. Roses on such branches will appear only next year. To make room for them, faded branches are cut at the root. The autumn period is best suited for this procedure as part of the pre-winter preparation.

If a variety blooms several times over the summer, flowering shoots of various ages (2-5 years) form on its main branches. By the fifth year of life, the flowering of these branches decreases significantly. To avoid this, in the 4th or 5th year of the development of the main shoots, at the very beginning of spring they are cut off at the root. Thus, at least 3 young annual regenerative shoots and up to 7 main stems with flowers are left on the bushes. Excess growth will have a bad effect on flowering, so no more than 10 shoots should remain on the bush.

Most of these roses also form buds on overwintered branches. Because of this, in the spring, they try to cut off only the tops with insufficiently developed buds.

According to special rules, pruning of young seedlings grafted onto rose hips is carried out. Until its root system has died out and the rose has not formed its own roots, within several years the rose hips will have to be removed from the bush.

Climbing roses after flowering

What to do when climbing roses have faded

In early autumn, climbing rose bushes are already beginning to prepare for the upcoming winter. Since the end of August, they are no longer watered or loosened, so as not to stimulate planting to grow. Nitrogen fertilizers are replaced with potash fertilizers. You can also use special fall formulations. For example, at the end of summer, you can feed the plantings with a mixture of superphosphate (25 g), potassium sulfate (10 g) and boric acid (2.5 g), diluted in 10 liters of water. The mixture is applied under the bushes, 0.5 liters per plant. For convenience, fertilizers can be applied by the foliar method, but the concentration of the compositions in this case is reduced by 3 times. After 2 weeks, feeding is repeated.

Around the middle of October, the appropriate pruning of the bushes is carried out. Together with the affected or broken branches, it is necessary to cut off the soft unripe tops of the shoots - otherwise they will freeze out. Foliage and remaining flowers are also removed from the shoots to prevent possible decay.

Climbing roses will need shelter, but for this, the bushes are first removed from the supports and carefully laid on the ground. All procedures must be carried out in advance, at a positive temperature - due to a cold snap below zero, the juice in the stems can freeze, because of which the branches of the bush will lose their flexibility and can easily break.

The process of removing from the support is easiest in young plants; it is not so easy to lay an adult rose on the ground. In order not to harm the bush, laying is carried out gradually, over the course of a week. To do this, the upper part of the shoots is tied with a rope and gradually bent to the ground. Sometimes a mobile load is used for this purpose. They try to put bent shoots together and fix them carefully so that their thorns do not touch each other. In this position, the bushes can spend about a couple of weeks without shelter.

Shelter for the winter

The safety of climbing roses in the next season, as well as the abundance of their flowering, depends on the correct shelter. Many varieties do not shed their foliage for the winter, moreover, some even continue to bloom. With the onset of cold weather, the development of the bushes stops, but with a thaw, the plants can again resume sap flow. It is this feature that makes the bushes especially vulnerable to temperature extremes. It leads to cracking of shoots, and with this - to the development of diseases.

Roses should be covered after it gets colder outside -5 degrees outside. In warmer weather, the plants will not need protection - a slight cold snap will allow them to harden enough. In addition, excessive heat from the shelter can provoke growth or damping off.

A dry day and calm weather are best suited for sheltering plantings. Pink lashes are tied with a rope, and then laid on a bed of dry foliage. Instead, you can use spruce branches or foam. The main thing is not to lay the stems on bare ground. The bush is pressed or lightly fixed on the litter. From above it is covered with dry grass or leaves, or covered with the remaining spruce branches. The near-trunk circle is cleaned, after which the area at the base of the bush is additionally covered with sand or earth to a height of up to 30 cm. On top of the roses are covered with any waterproof material: film, dense lutrasil or roofing material. At the same time, a supply of air must remain between the bush and the covering material. It will allow cracks that appear on the shoots to tighten faster.

Sometimes the shelter is pulled over the frames of arches, boards or wooden shields located above the roses. In this case, the whips should not touch the walls of the frame. If roses grow on a compact arch, you can insulate them directly on the support. Plants are wrapped in layers of burlap or covered with spruce branches, and then the structure is fixed with ropes. If roses grow on a removable trellis, it is removed and covered with the bush.

Caring for climbing roses in winter

If a thaw begins in winter, it is recommended to open the top layer of the shelter for a short time. Fresh air will have a positive effect on wintering plantings. Leaves and spruce branches are not removed. With the arrival of more spring weather, the shelter is completely removed - otherwise the climbing roses will be too hot and they will begin to hurt, but the spruce branches are still left. He will be able to protect the bushes in case of recurrent frosts. As a rule, by May the bushes are completely opened.

Pests and diseases

The main pests of climbing roses are spider mites and aphids. If only small groups of insects have appeared on the landings, you can try to remove them using folk remedies. A very small island of aphids can be removed by hand using gloves and holding the affected shoot. If the pests have already multiplied enough, this method will not help.

In the early stages of infection, bushes can be treated with soapy water. To do this, the soap is rubbed on a grater and diluted with water. The solution is left until the chips are completely dissolved, and then filtered and applied to the bushes with a spray bottle. If the method does not help, you should resort to stronger drugs. You should choose products that are specifically designed to combat the corresponding pest on grapes or roses. For the application of the insecticide, a calm and clear day is chosen so that the composition is not washed away by precipitation and is not carried to the side.

Spider mites can appear on bushes in hot and dry weather if the bushes are watered relatively rarely. Pests settle on the seamy side of the leaves and feed on their sap. Affected plants acquire a silvery-green color. Among the folk remedies that help in the fight against ticks are infusions of yarrow, tobacco, makhorka or wormwood. Within three days after treatment with such infusions, most of the pests or their entire population should die, but these funds take time to prepare. So wormwood infusion is prepared from fresh wormwood herb. A bucket of water will require 0.5 kg of greens. The composition should be infused for about 2 weeks, after which it is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. At the same time, it is necessary to treat with a solution not only the above-ground part of the bush, but also to shed soil with it near the plantings. Fitoverm can be used to kill ticks faster. Usually, after 2 weeks, the bushes should be re-treated - all dosages and spraying schedule will be indicated in the instructions for the drug.

Other garden pests can appear on climbing roses. Proper flower care is considered the best remedy against their occurrence. Healthy plants are less likely to be targeted by harmful insects.To further protect the flowers, you can plant insect repellent plants, such as marigolds, near the rose bushes.

In the fall, the bushes should be treated for prophylaxis: a solution of Bordeaux mixture is applied to them.

Among the main diseases inherent in climbing roses are gray rot and powdery mildew, as well as bacterial cancer, spotting and coniotirium.

Bacterial cancer

Growths appear on the bushes, resembling soft tubercles. Over time, they darken and harden, leading to the drying out and death of the entire bush. This disease is considered incurable, so special attention should be paid to its prevention. Before buying, the seedlings of roses are carefully examined, and before planting they are thoroughly disinfected, keeping the roots of the plant in a 3% solution of copper sulfate for a couple of minutes. You can try to remove small lesions of an adult bush: these areas are immediately cut off, and the sections are treated with the same solution as the roots when planting.

Coniotirium

Fungal infection of the stems, also called bark burn. This disease is sometimes also considered cancer. Usually, its signs appear in the spring, when the bushes are opened after wintering. At the same time, the bark of the branches acquires red-brown spots, darkening over time and spreading around the branch like a ring. Noticing such signs, diseased shoots are immediately cut off, trying to capture small parts of healthy tissue. To prevent the fungus from spreading, the trimmings are destroyed.

For prophylaxis in the fall, the bushes must be fed with potash, not nitrogen compounds. This step will allow the plants to strengthen the shoots. During periods of thaw, the shelter must be slightly opened for airing so that the bushes do not get blocked.

Powdery mildew

The above-ground parts of the bush are covered with a light bloom, eventually acquiring a brownish color. Usually, the bushes are affected by powdery mildew due to high humidity and sudden temperature changes. The situation can be aggravated by an excess of nitrogen in the soil, as well as an incorrect irrigation schedule.

The affected parts of the plants are to be destroyed, and the rest of the bush is treated with a solution of copper (2%) or iron (3%) vitriol.

Black spot

The outer part of the foliage is covered with dark reddish-brown specks with a yellow outline. They grow and merge, leading to wilting and death of the entire leaf. To prevent such a disease in the fall, potassium-phosphorus compositions should be applied under the bushes. Roses are treated with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture or the same solution of ferrous sulfate, carrying out three treatments with an interval of one week.

Gray rot

This disease significantly affects the health of the bush and can literally affect all of its parts. A decaying rose loses its decorative effect and blooms much weaker. A heavily affected plant cannot be saved; it will have to be removed from the site and burned. In the early stages, the disease can be cured. To do this, the bush is treated with a solution of Bordeaux liquid (50 g per 5 l of water). For a complete cure, it is necessary to carry out about 4 treatments with weekly breaks.

In some cases, a weak bloom is not considered a symptom of the disease. This is how initially low-flowering seedlings or bushes planted in an inappropriate place or in a soil unsuccessful for a rose can behave. The reason for the insufficient flowering may be freezing of the old stems of the plant.

Breeding methods for climbing roses

Climbing roses can be propagated by using their seeds. They are usually purchased at the store or harvested from existing bushes. But in this case, the transfer of varietal traits is not guaranteed, and the grown bush can turn out to be literally anyone.

Also, vegetative methods are often used for reproduction: cuttings and the formation of layers, as well as grafting.

Growing from seeds

Climbing rose seeds are formed in the same berries as those of the rose hips. Their shelf life is about 1.5 years.Before planting, they need a fairly long processing. Before planting, the seeds must be kept in 3% hydrogen peroxide for about half an hour to protect them from mold. Then they start stratification: the seeds are placed in cotton pads or gauze soaked in hydrogen peroxide, placed in a plastic bag and kept in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator for about 1.5 months. The seed is periodically ventilated. When mold forms, the seeds are washed, treated again with peroxide and replaced with fresh gauze. During this period, the seeds should hatch. Seedlings are planted in peat tablets or in small containers filled with slightly acidic soil. The seeds are buried by 1 cm, and sprinkled with perlite on top - this mulch will protect the plants from the development of the "black leg". Until sprouts appear, you can keep the planting under glass or a bag.

Daylight hours for growing rose seedlings should be at least 10 hours. The sprouts are watered as the soil dries. With proper care, in a couple of months after the emergence of shoots, the bushes will begin to form buds, and in another month they will bloom. Some growers recommend cutting off the first buds so that the plant directs all its forces towards the upcoming rooting and does not deplete. Before planting in the garden, seedlings can be fed with a weak complex composition. In the spring, the resulting seedlings are transferred to the ground. Caring for such roses will not differ from caring for adult bushes.

Cuttings

The easiest way to propagate climbing roses is by cuttings. In this capacity, you can use both pieces of old faded and flowering stems. The collection of material is carried out from mid-June to early August. The lower cut is made under the bud, trying to cut the branch at an angle of 45 degrees. In this case, the upper cut is carried out as high as possible above the kidney at a right angle. Each stalk must have at least a couple of internodes. The lower leaves are cut off from the segment, the upper ones are cut in half. As a rule, treatment of the lower cut with a stimulant is not required, with the exception of propagation of long-rooted varieties.

The cuttings are planted in a mixture of earth with sand or pure sandy soil to a depth of 1 cm. The seedlings are covered with a transparent jar or bottle on top. Landings should be kept in a sufficiently bright place, but not in direct light. They try to water without removing the cap.

Reproduction by layering

To obtain a layering in the spring, an incision is made above one of the buds. After that, the shoot with an incision is placed in a previously prepared groove about 10-15 cm wide and deep. Humus is laid on its bottom, and sprinkled with a layer of soil on top. The shoot is well fixed in the groove, and then a mound-elevation is poured into the place of deepening. Layers will need regular watering. The next spring, the resulting plant can be separated from the main bush and transplanted.

Grafting of climbing roses

Grafting a pink eye on the rhizomes of a rose hip is called budding. This procedure is carried out during August. Before grafting, use a rosehip bush of a species suitable for the rootstock. It is watered, and then a T-shaped incision is made on the root collar of the rootstock plant. At the same time, the bark is slightly pryed so that it moves away from the wood. A peephole bud is cut from a climbing rose cut before grafting, trying to capture not only the bud itself, but also part of the bark and branches. The eye is placed in the incision so that it fits as tightly as possible, and then this area is tightly wrapped with a special film for budding. After that, the rosehip-stock is spud, trying to cover it with soil 5 cm above the eye.After half a month, the film can be slightly weakened, and in the spring of the next season, it can be completely removed.

In the spring, the stock is cut about 0.5 cm above the graft and treated with garden varnish. After that, the bush is spud a little. After a few weeks, the peephole will begin to sprout. After the formation of 4-leaf plates, the shoot is pinched.Do the same with all young twigs to form a neat branchy bush.

Climbing rose varieties with photos and names

Of the many varieties of climbing roses, the following are considered the most famous:

Rambler (small-flowered climbing roses)

Bobby James

The height of the bushes of such a rose can reach up to 8 m. Their bushes spread out to 3 m. Many delicate cream-colored flowers up to 5 cm in size almost completely hide the bright green foliage from view. The flowers have a musky scent. The variety is considered frost-resistant, but needs a lot of space and strong supports.

Rumbling Rector

Shoots up to 5 m long are covered with leaves of a pale green hue. The flowers have a semi-double structure and a cream color, fading to white in the bright sun. The size of the individual flowers is small enough, but together they form large racemose inflorescences. They can include up to 40 flowers. Such a plant can also be grown as a bush plant.

Super Excels

The variety forms 2-meter bushes with the same width. Double flowers of a bright crimson color bloom on them. They are collected in cluster inflorescences. Flowering continues until the very end of summer, but the flowers become paler in the sun. This rose is resistant to powdery mildew and high frost resistance.

Climing and Climbing (large-flowered varieties)

Elf

This rose is an erect bush with a height of about 2.5 m. The crown width reaches 1.5 m. The flowers are densely double, up to 14 cm in diameter. Their color is light, yellowish-green. These roses have a fruity aroma and appear on the bushes until the very end of summer. The variety is resistant to disease.

Santana

The variety is a bush up to 4 m tall, decorated with rich green leaves and semi-double flowers. They have velvety petals of deep red color and are quite large (up to 10 cm) in size. The variety is characterized by frost resistance and good immunity. Flowering occurs several times over the summer.

Polka

Bushes over 2 m in size. The foliage is shiny, dark green. The size of the flowers reaches 12 cm, they have a large number of apricot-colored petals. During the summer, the plant blooms up to 3 times. The variety is resistant to powdery mildew, but it is thermophilic enough and requires full-fledged shelter.

Indigoletta

Powerful fast-growing bushes up to 3 m high and up to 1.5 m wide. The foliage is strong, dark green. The flowers are painted in an unusual lilac shade. They have a fairly large (up to 10 cm) size and a pleasant aroma. Several waves of flowering are observed over the summer. The variety is notable for its disease resistance.

Cordes hybrids

These varieties of climbing roses are not classified as a separate group, but are classified as climbing. These roses are derived from the species of rugoza and vihurayana and have a number of their own characteristics.

Lagoon

The height of the bushes reaches 3 m, and the diameter is about 1 m. Fragrant inflorescences-brushes include large (up to 10 cm) flowers of a dark pink color. There are two waves of flowering during the season. The variety is resistant to black leg and powdery mildew.

Golden Gate

Bushes of this variety form many shoots. Plant height reaches 3.5 m. Inflorescences include semi-double (up to 10 cm in diameter) flowers of golden yellow color, with a strong fruity aroma. Flowering takes place in two waves.

Sympathy

The variety forms branched bushes up to 3 m in height and up to 2 m in width. Small inflorescences are formed from bright red flowers. The first wave of flowering is considered the most abundant, subsequent times during the summer the bush blooms weaker. Such a rose has a fast development rate and is highly resistant to frost, weather changes and the effects of disease.