Nidularium belongs to the bromeliad family. This plant grows in wildlife in an epiphytic way, it is found in the humid tropics of the American continent. Since the inflorescence is located in the center of the rosette with leaves, hence the name, which is conventionally translated from Latin as "nest".
Nidularium has no stem and belongs to the group of herbaceous perennials. The leaves are belt-shaped, hard to the touch, and have jagged edges. Assembled in the form of a rosette sealed to the touch. An inflorescence grows from the center of the outlet. Flowers are large, densely spaced, stipules are red.
Caring for nidularium at home
Location and lighting
Nidularium grows well in places with diffused daylight. The plant needs to be shaded, especially at noon, when the sun's rays can damage the leaves in the form of burns. In autumn and winter, nidularium also needs good enough lighting, but shading is no longer required. Daylight hours should be at least 12 hours, so for additional lighting, you can install a fluorescent lamp or a special phytolamp.
Temperature
In the spring and summer, the ambient temperature should be at least 21-24 degrees. In winter and autumn, the nidularium is at rest, so it will feel comfortable at temperatures from 14 to 17 degrees Celsius. The plant is able to withstand lower temperatures, but provided that it stays in such a room for a short time.
Air humidity
Nidularium is native to tropical forests, so it is especially sensitive to air humidity. The moisture content in the air must be constantly high, so the nidularium is sprayed with water several times a day. In order to increase the humidity of the air, the pot with the plant is placed on a pallet with expanded clay or sand, which is constantly moistened with water, while the bottom of the pot should not touch the water, otherwise the root system will start to rot.
Wide leaves quickly accumulate a large amount of dust on their surface, so wiping the leaves with a soft damp cloth or napkin becomes an obligatory regular procedure for caring for nidularium.
Watering
Nidularium in the spring-summer period is in an active stage of growth, so watering should be abundant. Water the plant into an outlet with leaves as the top layer of the earthen coma dries out in the pot. In winter and autumn, the plant is at rest, so it does not need abundant watering. In cold weather, nidularium receives water by spraying the leaves. Occasionally, an earthen lump can be moistened with distilled water at room temperature or a few degrees warmer.
The soil
The soil should be well air and water permeable, and the drainage at the bottom of the pot should be at least a third of its volume. The substrate at home can be mixed based on a ratio of 3: 1: 1: 1: 0.5 - three parts of pine bark, one part of chopped sphagnum, one part of high-moor peat, one part of leafy soil, half of humus.Adding charcoal or sand to the substrate will be helpful.
Top dressing and fertilizers
Nidularium needs regular feeding from March to September. The frequency of fertilization is once a month. Top dressing is suitable for both bromeliads and universal for flowering indoor plants. The diluted fertilizer concentrate is applied to an outlet with leaves. The fertilizer must contain a minimum amount of nitrogen, otherwise its excess can lead to the death of the plant.
Transfer
It is necessary to transplant nidularium once every 2-3 years. When transplanting, it is important to ensure that the neck is not covered with earth, otherwise the plant will quickly rot. The planting pot should be wide, but not too deep.
Reproduction of nidularium
There are two ways of reproduction of nidularium: with the help of seeds or by root offspring. Seeds must be washed in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate before planting. Then they are dried and then sown in a mixture of peat, sphagnum moss and calcined sand. From above, the container is covered with a transparent bag or glass and left at a temperature of at least 22-24 degrees. The greenhouse must be regularly ventilated, and the topsoil must be moistened. The first shoots appear after 10-20 days, and after 2-2.5 months, the seedlings are transplanted into a mixture of turf, leafy soil and peat in a ratio of 1: 2: 4. After 6 months, the sprouts are planted in separate pots. The flowering of a young plant obtained by germinating seeds can be seen after 3-4 years.
After the plant fades, the rosette with leaves dies off, but on the sides you can see the appearance of new offspring. After 1.5-2 months, 3-4 leaves and a weak root system appear on each of them. Such processes are separated from the adult plant along with the roots and planted in a separate container, placed in a warm place and kept at a temperature of at least 26-28 degrees. From above, the pot with the shoot is covered with glass or a transparent bag and left in this state until the moment when the plant has fully taken root. The improvised greenhouse is regularly ventilated and moisturized.
Diseases and pests
Like any other indoor plant, nidularium is capable of being affected by pests such as scale insects, aphids, and spider mites.
If the plant is infected with a scab, then the leaves turn yellow and fall off. The pest must be removed from the leaves, and they are located on both sides, and the leaves themselves must be treated with an insecticide solution.
Insecticides are also effective against mealybugs and aphids. To get rid of the red spider mite, you can use acaricidal agents.
Nidularium can get sick, shed leaves or even die if it is exposed to direct sunlight, in dry air, or is poured with hard tap water. The lack of water in the outlet will also have a detrimental effect on the plant.
