The plant neorelegia (Neoregelia) belongs to the Bromeliad family, growing both on the ground and in the epiphytic way. The flower's habitat is the tropical rainforests of Brazil, Ecuador, Eastern Peru and Colombia.
Neorelegia is a perennial rosette herb. The leaves are wide, with a belt-like structure, with thorns at the edges. They are attached to the base of the outlet and have a whitish or light purple hue there. The inflorescence grows from the leaf axils, forms in the form of numerous flowers.
Caring for neorehelia at home
Location and lighting
Compliance with all the rules for growing neorelegia ensures good growth and a healthy appearance of the plant. Neorelegia needs bright, diffused sunlight, but direct burning rays are harmful to the plant. Leaves can get burned. In the autumn-winter period, the plant must be provided with additional artificial lighting. Special fluorescent lamps are suitable. In the room in which the neorelegia is located, a constant supply of fresh air must be ensured, but it is important to avoid drafts.
Temperature
In spring and summer, the optimum ambient temperature should be in the range of 20-25 degrees. In winter, the plant is kept in a cool room with a temperature close to 16 degrees. In such conditions, the flowering of neorelegia can be extended for up to six months.
Air humidity
The humidity of the air for keeping the plant must be increased (at least 60%). Ideal conditions for growth will be finding neorelegia in a greenhouse or greenhouse. If there are no greenhouse conditions, then the plant is constantly sprayed with distilled water. Or they put neorelegia in a pallet with wet expanded clay. The main condition is that the bottom of the pot should not touch the water. Leaves accumulate a large amount of dust, so they are periodically wiped with a damp cloth.
Watering
In spring and summer, neorelegia needs abundant watering through a rosette of leaves. Water the plant in the morning. In winter, water is poured at the root, and the watering itself is reduced to prevent rotting of the roots or rosette. Water for irrigation should be distilled a little more than room temperature by 3 degrees.
The soil
The optimal soil composition for neorelegia is a mixture of crushed pine bark, sphagnum moss, peat, leaf and humus soil in a ratio of 3: 1: 1: 1: 0.5. You can also use a different composition of the substrate: leafy soil, peat soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 0.5.
Top dressing and fertilizers
Neorelegia needs fertilization in the spring and summer. From May to September, the plant is fertilized once every 3-4 weeks. Fertilizers are suitable for bromeliads. The fertilizer concentrate diluted with water is applied to the leaf outlet.
Transfer
It is necessary to transplant neorelegia only when necessary, for example, when the flower has grown too much and the pot has become small. It is necessary to ensure that the neck is always deepened in the soil. During the transplant, you need to take care of good drainage.Drainage should take up about a third of the entire space in the pot.
Reproduction of neorelegia
It is possible to propagate neorelegia in two ways: by rosettes or by seeds. After the plant has faded, a large number of rosettes are formed on it. When at least 4 leaves grow on each process, it will be possible to separate and transplant them. The rosette is separated from the roots and planted in a separate pot. Next, the pot is placed in a warm place with a temperature of at least 28 degrees. Cover with glass from above. It is important not to forget to ventilate the artificial greenhouse every day. After the rosette gets stronger and takes root in the new soil, the glass can be removed and you can begin to care for the neorelegia like other adult plants.
If the florist has chosen the method of propagation by seeds, then they must first be soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Then they are dried and planted in moist sphagnum, covered with glass. The temperature of the seeds is about 25 degrees, the greenhouse is watered and aired daily. The first shoots can be observed after 14-21 days. After 3 months, the seedlings can be transplanted into the pre-purchased soil for bromeliads. The first flowers can be seen only after 3-4 years.
Diseases and pests
Among the pests that can destroy the plant, the greatest danger is the scale insect, spider mite, aphid and mealybug.
Leaves affected by the bromeliad scale quickly turn yellow and die off. In order to get rid of pests, you need to remove them with a damp cloth on both sides. The napkin is pre-moistened in an insecticide solution according to the instructions for the preparation. Additionally, you can treat the plant with the same solution.
The mealybug is dangerous because, in addition to damage to the leaves, a sooty fungus settles on the sugary secretions. The plant stops growing, sheds foliage and without special treatment can quickly die. The leaves must be washed on both sides with a solution of alcohol or insecticide.
The presence of a spider mite can be identified by a cobweb visible to the naked eye that braids the leaves on both sides. The affected plant quickly sheds its leaves and dies. To save neorelegia, you need to treat the flower with soapy water.
Aphids are located on the upper part of the leaves, they feed on the sap of the plant. The leaves gradually die off and turn yellow. Neorelegia can be saved by treating it with an insecticide solution.
If the flower is in the open sun, then pale brown spots appear on its leaves. Sunburn cannot be cured, so it is important to change the placement in the room.
Due to the dry air, the tips of the leaves of the neorelegia dry up.