Daffodils

The daffodil plant (Narcissus) is a bulbous perennial from the Amaryllis family. The flower is considered a joyful messenger of spring and the fastest dissolves multi-colored buds towards the spring sun.

Daffodils are valuable decorative monocotyledonous flowers that grow in many European and Asian countries. Wild species have taken a fancy to the Mediterranean coast. It is Portugal and Spain that are their homeland. For growing daffodils in garden plots, about 25 varieties of flowers are used. There are also hybrid forms that are grown in outdoor flower beds or in indoor pots.

Daffodils are one of the most popular spring flowers and are ideal for urban flower beds and suburban front gardens. They bloom in early spring, one of the first pleasing to the eye of urban and rural residents, they look refreshing against the background of the earth rancid after the cold weather.

Narcissus description

Narcissus is a flowering monocotyledonous perennial that grows from dense bulbs. The green mass is formed from 2 or 4 ribbon-like leaf plates, which differ in width depending on the variety. The lower layer of leaves, close to the surface of the earth, has a linear shape. These leaves are formed before the peduncle. Stems are glabrous, they are found both round and slightly flattened. The stems are covered with a film-like drag. By the time of flowering, a flower is born on the crown.

Different varieties of daffodil have different bulb shapes. There are oval, ovoid, pointed or round bulbs. Some of them form a nest, at the bottom of which babies are formed, hidden under a layer of multi-colored scales. From year to year, the old roots die off. New roots are taking their place. The total life expectancy of the underground parts is no more than 10 months.

Narcissus buds drooping or straight. They can take place in the umbellate racemose inflorescence. The number of flowers varies from 2 to 8 pieces. There are also single specimens.

The perianth looks like a tubular funnel, the edges of which are smoothly bent at the top. The outgrowth of the corolla in the pharynx is either tubular, bell-shaped, or cupped.It is based on the outgrowths of the perianth lobes, often painted in the opposite shade.

The buds themselves are usually colored yellow or white. In garden plots, daffodils are also cultivated, the flowers of which have a two-tone color. The diameter of an adult plant reaches from 20 to 100 mm.

Daffodils bear fruit in three-nested bolls. Small seeds are hidden under the walls of the boxes. The height of ornamental bushes is about 10-50 cm. Daffodils are used to decorate flower beds near the house. It is also allowed to grow potted crops indoors. The flowering phase occurs in mid or late May.

Features of a narcissus

For a long time, daffodils have found their application in medicine and the perfume industry. It is not for nothing that the name of the flower is translated from Greek as "narcao", ie. "Intoxicate". This explains the heady smell that the plant exudes. If you inhale it for a long time, you can provoke severe headaches.

Earlier in eastern countries, daffodils were called "nargiz". Bright open buds looked like the eyes of a beloved girl. The ancient Greeks, on the contrary, avoided plants in every possible way and personified a flower with death. In the Renaissance, it stood for love and the unbreakable bond of marriage. For Italians, to this day, daffodils are a symbol of love and fidelity.

The oil from the parts of the plant has narcotic properties, and the bulbs contain poisonous substances. An alkaloid, narcissin, was found in their composition, which effectively repels rodents.

At the end of the 19th century, this perennial reached the peak of its popularity. They knew about him in all corners of the world. Today, in eastern countries, the described bulbous culture is grown on an industrial scale for the production of essential oil. The British consider daffodils to be the "kings" of flowers and give them all sorts of privileges. For the Chinese New Year, every home must have a bouquet of daffodils.

Narcissus myths and legends

People began to talk about the unusual properties of the narcissus in ancient times. Many legends and beliefs associated with this flower have been preserved. It is worth mentioning the famous ancient Greek myth about a young boy named Narcissus.

According to legend, Narcissus was famous for his heartlessness and pride. Once a mountain nymph Echo fell in love with him. But the guy never responded to the girl in return. Dreaming of winning the young man's favor, Echo called on the gods for help. As punishment for the callousness, the gods enchanted Narcissus and made him fall in love with their own reflection.

Soon the guy was completely withered and died suddenly. Having shown mercy, the gods raised a flower on the grave of the young man, which they called a daffodil. Subsequently, the name passed into the status of common nouns. Psychology even mentions a term called "narcissism." This is how an exclusively narcissistic and selfish person is characterized.

Short rules for growing a daffodil

The table provides a brief summary of the rules for growing daffodils outdoors.

All vegetative parts of the narcissus flower contain poisonous substances, they are composed of an alkaloid called narcissin.

Preparing to plant daffodils

Daffodils are considered primroses. Their appearance in the garden is timed to the moment when crocuses, hyacinths and tulips begin to bloom. The daffodil flower is quite unpretentious to care for, but if you are very busy, it is better to choose another plant for planting. Without proper care, timely watering and feeding, daffodils will quickly die.

Site selection

Choosing a site for planting daffodil bulbs is an important point. The place should be well lit, and the soil should allow air to flow to the roots. The culture prefers to grow in neutral loamy soil.

In the process of digging, humus or compost is introduced. Organic fertilizers, namely fresh manure, are categorically unacceptable to add as top dressing. Soil with a high pH level is diluted with dolomite flour. The ratio of the substance is 200 g per 1 sq. m. If the soil, on the contrary, is too acidic, add wood ash at the rate of 1 glass per 1 square meter. m.

It is not recommended to plant bulbs in a place where lilies, tulips and other bulbous flowers, as well as asters, chrysanthemums, phloxes, grew before. It is better to choose an area previously set aside for legumes, cereals, peonies, cucumbers. In this environment, flowers will develop faster.

Preparing the bulbs

Planting activities in the garden are carried out only in warm spring weather, when frosts at night no longer cause concern. Bulbs can be purchased at specialized stores. At this time, the goods are sold cheaply, so there is an opportunity to buy bulbs of any varieties in order to create a flower arrangement near the house.

The planting material must be strong, without cuts or dents. Sluggish or soft daffodil bulbs are not suitable for planting. The chance that a healthy plant will grow from them is small. Even if the flower rises, it will have to be carefully cared for. The most suitable time to buy bulbs is 3 months after the flowering has ended. Gardeners do not recommend buying material if:

• the bulbs were harvested in the spring;
• bulbs have shoots, roots, i.e. during the period when the plant is still in bloom, or has just finished blooming;
• bulbs have many peaks, and only one of them is large, and the others are tiny;
• the first shoots have already appeared.

Before planting, you need to make sure the quality of the material. The bulbs are examined from all sides, and areas with signs of damage or disease are cut off. They select too soft and injured, as well as those who have a sore bottom. The selected planting material is disinfected - it is soaked for half an hour in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or treated with a 3% fungicidal preparation.

Planting daffodils outdoors

The best time to plant

The time for planting daffodil bulbs in open ground depends primarily on the climatic conditions of the area. Like many bulbous flowers, daffodils are best planted in the fall.

In mid-latitude regions, planting begins in September. Then the material has time to properly take root before the onset of cold weather. It takes about 20-30 days to root. Planting is allowed even in winter or early spring, but before that, the bulbs need to be hardened. Why are they stored in the refrigerator for 2 months on a shelf. If you ignore this procedure, the bulbs will root poorly, and the plant will not please with flowers.

Refrigerated stratified bulbs are allowed to be planted in open ground as soon as the snow cover melts, which usually happens in the second half of April. Such daffodils sprout quickly, despite the fact that the outside air temperature is only 5-7 degrees.

Spring planting

Before starting the spring planting, they carefully prepare the site, namely, they dig up the garden bed and apply fertilizers. Humus and nitrophoska are suitable in a ratio of 60 g of substance per 1 sq. m. Sand is also added. The planting does not have to be postponed if you did not have time to properly prepare the site. The main thing is that the soil meets all the requirements for breeding daffodils.

Further, planting holes are dug on the site. Their depth should be equal to three diameters of the bulb itself. The bottom is covered with sand, 2 tbsp is added on top. l. ash and place in the center of the onion. The hole is half filled with earth, which is mixed with compost in advance, and watered abundantly. Then they add earth to the very top and tamp the surface.

The distance between the holes depends on whether you plan to replant flowers in a year or the plant will stay here for at least 5 years. If you still decide to plant the bushes in the future, the interval between the holes is left from 7 to 10 cm.If the daffodils are not planned to be transplanted, the distance between the bushes should be from 15 to 20 cm.

Upon completion of planting, the surface of the soil is covered with mulch. As mulch, use nutshells, straw, sawdust or dry cut grass. The main thing is that weeds do not get on the ridge, which prevents moisture evaporation. A layer of mulch saves time on weeding and loosening the flower garden, and the site will be protected from the scorching sun rays and weeds.

Planting in autumn

If you are planning an autumn planting, it is better to prepare the site in the summer. Dig up the soil to the depth of the shovel bayonet, enrich the soil with fertilizers. To do this, mix 2 tbsp. l. superphosphate, 4-5 kg ​​of peat (or compost) and 1 tbsp. l. Agricola for flowering plants. The specified fertilizer rate is enough for 1 sq. m. flower beds.

Heavy soil is diluted with humus and sand. For each square meter of the site, half a bucket of these components is added. After that, the ridge is dug up again - this is the final stage of preparation.

Planting daffodil bulbs in the fall and caring for them is no different from planting in spring. For bulbous plants, autumn is considered the most favorable time for the rooting of the material. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out sowing activities in the spring only as a last resort.

A flower that has been sitting in one place for several years grows strongly and begins to bloom worse. Therefore, it is recommended to transplant perennial specimens at least once every 4-5 years. The bush is carefully removed, separated from the baby's bulbs and seated separately. The procedure is done after flowering is complete. The bulbous transplant is the most reliable.

Caring for daffodils in the garden

In order for daffodils to grow up healthy and bloom for a long time, they adhere to certain rules of care. It is important to remember that flowers look beautiful and healthy only if they are fertilized and watered on time. Withered buds are cut off so that the plant does not waste energy on the formation and maturation of seeds. Instead, the culture will direct all its forces to the growth and development of the bulbs.

Lighting

Daffodils grow and bloom better in areas that are exposed to direct sunlight. But planting them in the most conspicuous place is not worth it: after flowering, the stems look ugly, they wither and wither, so the central place in the flowerbed will not be the most suitable. The best landscape design using daffodils is complex, combining them with perennials and other plants that bloom at different times of summer.

Watering

Daffodils are a moisture-loving culture, therefore, flowers are watered regularly. On a flower bed with an area of ​​1 sq. m. it takes about 20 liters of water. Do not forget to loosen the moistened soil properly. They also carefully get rid of any weeds that bother the plant. To spend less time weeding, cover the area with a layer of mulch. Taking care of your plant with mulch is easy.

Bushes, in which the buds have faded, are watered abundantly, and the flower bed continues to loosen for 2-3 weeks. On the local area, you can plant several varieties of daffodil, then they will delight the owners with bright flowering all summer.

Top dressing

Spring heat provokes shoot growth. As soon as the first shoots of daffodils turn green above the ground, they are fed with mineral fertilizers. For every 1 sq. m. leaves about 30 g of the substance. The next feeding is timed to the moment of bud formation, which falls at the end of May. Then for every 1 sq. m. take 20 g of mineral fertilizers.

For maximum lush and long-lasting flowering of the bushes, fertilizing is repeated after a while. The faded plant is fed with potash and phosphorus fertilizers at the rate of 1: 2, and for each square meter of the flower bed, 50-60 g of nutritional supplements are added. Fertilized soil is watered abundantly and then loosened so that a crust does not form, which restricts air access to the roots.

When to transplant daffodils

By observing the condition of the buds, you can understand that daffodils need a transplant. When the buds are smaller and less attractive, it is time to replant the bushes. For this, the mother bulb is divided into parts.

Only faded specimens are allowed to be transplanted. Before this, a new flower bed is prepared, dug up and sprinkled with fertilizers. After waiting for the foliage to turn yellow and dry, they dig up and divide the daffodils. The yellowing of the leaves often occurs several months after the end of flowering. Frequent rainfall speeds up this process.

Throughout the growing season, one bulb is capable of producing 2-4 young bulbs. The bulbs removed from the soil are shaken off the ground and the withered foliage is cut off. Carefully examine them for damage and illness. Sick and deformed tubers are selected. Daffodil bulbs suitable for planting are cleaned of dead scales. Then the material is washed and sent for disinfection for 30 minutes. Potassium permanganate is used as a disinfectant solution.

Next, they start dividing the bulbs. First, the babies are torn off, which are easily separated, and the rest, which are tightly connected to the mother's tuber, are slowly loosened. Tear points must be treated with wood ash or crushed coal. Do not cut the roots off the bulbs. The separated onions are laid out to dry in a dark place. Then they are sent for storage in a cool place in a room where the air temperature does not exceed 17 degrees. They are placed on cardboard or newspaper in such a way that there is a distance between them, otherwise the areas of tears may become inflamed.

Do not delay planting the bulbs. The time from the moment the material is removed from the soil to planting in open ground should not exceed 8 weeks.

Daffodils after flowering

Wintering

Daffodil flowers are not afraid of frost. However, in regions with little snowy winters, bulbs that have not been dug out can freeze a little. The thaw that has begun causes harm to the underground parts, since during this period the bulbs awaken and the sprouts hatch. In open, unprotected soil with mulch, flowers die quickly early in the growing season.

If the plant is on the site for the winter, then after waiting for the leaves to wither and fall off, the soil is carefully loosened. Further, the surface of the flower bed is covered with a layer of mulch. Use of loose leaves, peat, wood ash or straw is recommended. The thickness of the covering layer is 10-15 cm. If the listed components are not at hand, the bushes can be covered with spunbond or agrospan. The material must be fixed at the ends so that it does not fly off when the wind gusts.

The site is covered with mulch in the fall, when the soil, as it should, freezes over. Remove the mulching layer after the danger of spring frost has passed.

When to dig up narissa

Daffodil bulbs are harvested from the soil in June-July. It is very simple to understand that the moment has come.The leaves turn yellow, the tips dry out, and the bush loses its shape. Having shaken off the tubers from the ground, they are dried and stored in a dark place, where it is cool and dry. Most varieties of daffodil bloom for eight weeks. The duration of this phase depends on the temperature and humidity in the region where the crop is grown. By the end of flowering, underground material can be dug up.

Digging up the bulbs should not be left on the back burner. Bushes quickly fall off and lose dried leaves, so it will be difficult to find the location of the plant over time.

It is convenient to use a shortened garden fork to remove the daffodil bulbs from the soil. Tubers are cut from leaves and stems, laid on a spread newspaper so that they dry out. The place is chosen shaded. Once the surface is dry, the adhering soil can be easily shaken off. Carefully separate the daughter bulbs from the mother tuber, trying not to damage the roots.

Material for future planting is examined from all sides and discarded rotten, deformed and soft, as well as with signs of disease. It is recommended to burn the waste or remove it outside the site so as not to infect healthy bulbs.

Suitable planting material is washed under water and disinfected. Why immerse for 10-15 minutes in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate. After disinfecting, they are taken to a dry place. It is important that the temperature in the room where the tubers are dried is 22-25 degrees. A prerequisite is that the place for drying must be well ventilated.

Storage features

It is not recommended to keep the bulbs in a closed plastic bag. The pores must "breathe", otherwise the middle will start to rot. They also take into account the fact that as a result of a long stay outside the soil, the planting material is able to emit gas. Excess gas leads to the fact that the bulbs can suffocate.

For narcissus tubers, choose a shaded and well-ventilated room, where the air humidity is no more than 70%, and the temperature ranges from 10-12 degrees. The bulbs are placed on a pallet or wooden lattice in one layer so that they do not come into contact with each other.

Throughout the winter, the planting material is regularly checked. This should be done at least once a week. Noticing soft and spoiled specimens, or with traces of the disease, they are destroyed. Yellowish or whitish spots on the skin indicate rot. Darkening of the skin and bottom is considered a sign of fungal diseases. You need to sound the alarm if the bulbs get sick with bacterial rot. Then they start to smell unpleasant.

Daffodil breeding methods

In most cases, the daffodil reproduces by bulbs and children. Some gardeners also grow daffodils from seeds. Sowing is organized from freshly harvested seed material, which has not completely dried out. Seed collection begins in July or late autumn. For sowing, shallow boxes or bowls are useful, it allows you to plant seeds directly into open soil to a depth of at least 3 seed diameters. Future bushes are sown not thickly.

According to the advice of flower growers, the daffodils should not be transplanted for the first few years. During this time, the plant forms a strong, good bulb. Then the bushes with stable underground organs are transplanted to another place. For the first time, daffodils grown from seeds bloom only in the 6th or 7th year of life. Small-flowered species delight with buds 3-4 years after sowing.

With the help of seeds, exclusively wild species of daffodils reproduce. This method is not suitable for growing hybrid varieties, since the probability that the seedlings will retain the varietal characteristics of the parent bush is practically zero.

Diseases and pests of daffodils

Diseases

In order to prevent the development of diseases and scare away pests, it is necessary to adhere to certain rules when growing daffodils.However, preventive measures do not give one hundred percent guarantee, even experienced gardeners are faced with flower disease. Daffodils often suffer from fungal diseases, which have many similar symptoms.

Fusarium is the most dangerous for bulbous perennials. Traces of infection first appear on the bottom, and then the disease affects the entire bush. The bulbs are covered with a pinkish-white bloom, the shell softens, the leaf plates quickly turn yellow at the ends, after which they acquire a brown color and die off.

In some cases, daffodils develop gray rot. The disease is easily identified by a fluffy gray coating with black dots. Plaque forms on leaves and bulbs. Also, light brown spots can be observed on the leaves, which gradually increase in diameter, which leads to rotting of buds and shoots.

Often, garden daffodils are affected by penicillous rot, or penicillosis. Because of this, with the arrival of spring, the bulbs are not able to sprout. The disease develops due to high humidity in the area.

To protect bulb cultures from fungal diseases, before planting, the bulbs are immersed in Maxim's solution for half an hour. As soon as the first shoots hatch above the surface, they are treated with a fungicide, namely, 1.5% Bordeaux liquid.

Another threat to daffodils is viral diseases. We are talking about yellow or white striping, mosaic virus, ring spot and other ailments. All of these diseases affect the flower in the same way. The foliage on diseased bushes is covered with spots, stains and multi-colored strokes. The buds develop worse, and the bulbs become smaller.

Pests

Pests are also to blame for the spread of the viral disease. They carry infections through soil, pollen, seeds, and garden tools. Therefore, it is very difficult to deal with such a problem. The affected bush cannot always be healed. To protect plants, it is necessary to observe prevention:

• Planting on a flower bed requires healthy large bulbs without signs of damage. Before that, they are soaked to disinfect. Small bulbs that are soft to the touch are more susceptible to disease.
• When the first traces of insects, which are the main carriers of viruses, are found, the bushes are treated. Daffodils attract beetles, ticks, leafhoppers, whiteflies, and nematodes.
• In a timely manner, the affected specimens are dug up and burned until the infection spreads to neighboring plantings.
• Such dangerous pests as bears, root mites, nematodes, slugs and flies prefer to settle on the flower. To protect the plant from daffodil flies and nematodes, just before planting, the material is kept in a container with hot water for 2 hours. The bushes on which the daffodil fly has started up are sprayed with a 2% solution of fufanon. In the fight against nematodes, chemicals are used - carbation or nemaphos. During the budding period, the bushes are treated with Fitoverm. Dissolve 20 mg of the substance in a bucket of water. As a rule, one liter of the mixture is enough to spray an area of ​​at least 10 square meters. m.

Types and varieties of daffodils with photos and names

The British Royal Horticultural Society has managed to register many different varieties of bulbous perennials to date. For all cultivated forms of the flower, one name is used, Narcissus hybridus, which includes 13 groups of plants, 12 of which belong to garden daffodils. The latter group includes wild growing daffodils. Let us consider in more detail the characteristics and description of cultivated flower species.

Trumpet daffodils

The peduncle of tubular daffodils bears only one large bud, which consists of a tube and perianth, equal in length. In some specimens, the tube is longer than the perianth lobes. The buds are colored in two shades, white or yellow are more common. The mentioned variety is easy to multiply.Bulbs of adult plants reach 0.5 cm or more in diameter.

Gin and Lime is a popular variety of tubular daffodils with a perianth and crown that are painted in a bright yellow tone. As the bush grows, the crown changes color. Lemon color is replaced by white with a green spot.

Large-cupped

These daffodils grow one at a time. Their crown has corrugated or smooth edges. The crown is shorter than the petals. Flowers are painted in a wide variety of shades. However, the key feature of the specimens from this group is that the edges of the buds are limited by a contrasting rim. The time and duration of flowering bushes may differ, as well as the size of the peduncles in different varieties. If we compare the large-crowned view with the tubular, then the first bulbs look much smaller.

Jeanine is a cultivar with pronounced white perianths and rich pink crowns.

Small-cupped

Refers to single daffodils. The size of the crown barely reaches 1/3 of the length of the petals. Medium-sized buds exude a delicate aroma, dominated by a bright whitish-cream color. Such varieties are characterized by lush flowering.

Sabine Hay is one of the most beautiful representatives of small-crowned daffodils. The flower is low, decorated with an orange perianth and a fiery red crown. On the site, this variety blooms later than other daffodils.

Terry (Double)

This group of bulbous perennials includes flowers with valuable decorative properties. One bud can be located on the peduncle stem or in the company of others. Terry can be either a crown or a full flower. Bushes differ in shape, color and size. Terry daffodils combine varieties that have common botanical characteristics, namely, they all have the property of terry.

Tahiti is a variety that only a few breeders knew about for a long time. He gained fame quite recently. The stem height is 80-100 mm. Bright lemon perianth lobes in the middle are intertwined with red scallops. The variety is distinguished by the fact that the buds gradually discolor in the sun.

Triandrus

The triandrus group contains undersized varieties. The length of the bushes varies within 25 cm. One peduncle is capable of forming 2-3 buds, differing in a miniature crown and slightly protruding petals.

Ice Wings is an attractive variety whose main advantage is an impressive crown and snow-white petals. Bushes bloom for a very long time with good care.

Cyclamineus

These daffodils mean varieties that have been obtained by crossing the cyclamen variety with other cultivated forms. The flowers are seated separately. They resemble cyclamen in shape, since they have curved petals. A thin crown sometimes grows longer than the petals. In warm regions, daffodils bloom very early.

Sotinga is a flower with white petals and orange-pink crowns. The opening of the buds depends on the climatic features of the area where the bushes are grown.

Jonquilla

We are talking about varieties created by botanists by crossing the daffodil Jonquille. Culture blooms later than others. Green foliage, thanks to its rich tone, is striking. Only a couple of flowers are formed on a short pedicel. The crown is cup-shaped. Its length does not exceed the perianth. Flowers without transplanting are allowed to grow in a flower bed for 5-7 years.

Suzy - the variety cannot boast of long flowering, but it has a unique golden-yellow perianth and variegated crown.

Multi-flowered, or tacetate (Bunch-flowered, Tazetta)

Daffodils of the described group are very frost-hardy. At the top of the peduncle, a racemose inflorescence is formed. It consists of fragrant flowers, the number of which varies from 2 to 20 pieces. The perianth lobes are rounded, the crown is compact. The foliage has an expressive dark green tint.

Hugh Town is a lemon-colored daffodil with a spectacular orange cup.

Poetic (Poeticus)

On the peduncle there is only one white flower with a small crown, which occupies about 1/3 of the perianth length. The perianths are distinguished by a milky white tint. Underground tubers are small. The size, flowering period and structure of a plant are determined by belonging to a particular variety.

Actaea is an almost perfect daffodil. It is characterized by a yellow crown, marked with a green spot in the center, and a red rim.

Bulbocodium Hybrids

A place in this group is occupied by small bell-shaped flowers. In Australia, breeders are still breeding new varieties.

Split-Corona

The daffodils of this group have a slightly torn fringed crown. The petals also have this property. The group is divided into 2 subgroups:

1. Split crown - the crown and lobes in the bud of such a flower stick out opposite each other.
2. Papillon is a butterfly-shaped daffodil.

Palmares is a white daffodil with a pinkish tinge, decorated with a narrow crown. The culture blooms for a short time and loves sunlight, so it is better to plant the plant in well-lit areas.

All species

Representatives of the named daffodils include species and hybrid forms.

"Odorus Plenus" is a decorative terry daffodil, the flowers of which exude a fragrance throughout the garden. The variety is distinguished by its medium-late flowering.

It is also worth mentioning the pink daffodil - a perennial with a pinkish crown, bred in England in 1921 by the famous botanist D. Beckhouse. The plant has been used for breeding many varieties. He is considered the "progenitor" of tubular, Jonquillian, double and cyclamen daffodils. However, the name "pink daffodil" has survived to this day.

Foundling is a cyclamen daffodil. The petals are snow-white and the crown is deep pink. The variety managed to win a large number of awards at world botanical exhibitions.

Benefits of a daffodil

Eastern medicine doctors use daffodil bulbs for mastitis. To begin with, they are cleaned and ground in a blender. The finished mass is combined with boiled rice with porridge or sprinkled with rye flour for stickiness. The mixture is smeared with a thin layer on the affected area of ​​the body. When the product dries up, wash off with warm water. It is recommended to lubricate the breast with onion ointment 2-3 times a day.

The state of health after such a procedure improves significantly. However, before using the remedy, a woman should make sure that she is not allergic to the substances that make up the bulbs. Therefore, a few drops of the ointment are previously applied to the skin and observe whether redness or itching appears. If a reaction occurs, the medication should be abstained from.