Monstera

Monstera (Monstera) is an exotic plant from the aroid family. This genus includes about 50 different species. Its frightening name, derived from the word "monster", he received because of the very large appearance of its representatives and long aerial roots hanging from the branches and growing into the ground. But the plant combines its formidable size with useful properties. In domestic culture, monstera is valued as a natural air ionizer. Due to its large leaf mass, this vine helps to improve the atmosphere in the room, although it is not recommended to keep it in the bedrooms. Most often, the flower is found in spacious office spaces or hallways.

The birthplace of amazing lianas is considered to be the tropical zone stretching from Brazil to Mexico. In the 19th century, plants were brought to India and China.

Description of monstera

Monsters are evergreen vines with climbing shoots. Under natural conditions, they are capable of reaching 20 meters in length. In this case, the length of their leaves often reaches 90 cm. Due to the presence of aerial roots, these plants can exist as epiphytes.

In home floriculture, monsters are valued due to their relative unpretentiousness, as well as their decorative leaves: large, leathery, decorated with holes and cuts. At home, their average size is 30 cm, but they can be large. To make the plant take up less space and hold better, it is given an upright position with the help of various supports.

The monstera flower is not as ornate as its foliage. This is a large cylindrical inflorescence-cob, at the bottom of which there are sterile flowers, and at the top - bisexual. Later, a fruit with berries is formed in its place.

Basic rules for growing monstera

The table shows brief rules for caring for a monster at home.

You should know! Monstera juice is poisonous. Unripe fruits can also be dangerous.

Caring for a monster at home

Monstera is the favorite of many flower growers. It can be found among the owners who live even in small apartments. It can grow up to six meters in height, but in indoor conditions, its length can be over 30 centimeters or more. This is a plant from the genus of lianas, therefore, vertical supports are made for its growth at home. How to care for this powerful-looking plant?

This flower is actually not very whimsical, so caring for it will not be difficult at all. The main thing is to distinguish between what the monstera loves and what does not.

Lighting

The plant needs a lot of bright, but diffused light. Best suited for keeping monstera west and east. The northern windows are considered too dark for her, and near the southern tropical giant you will have to shade. Direct sunlight for monstera is harmless only in the morning or evening hours. It is especially important to observe this rule in the southern regions.

With the right lighting, monstera leaves become especially large and are complemented by elegant cuts. From a lack of light, young foliage becomes smaller, and aerial roots weaken. At the same time, it is not recommended to often change the location of the flower: the pot is transferred only in case of great need. In winter, when there is little natural light, you can use lamps.

Temperature

Indoor monstera does not impose special requirements on the temperature of the content, but it grows most intensively at +25 degrees. It can be a little cooler indoors in winter. The lowest temperature for a plant is +10 degrees. It should also be protected from cold autumn and, moreover, winter drafts.

Watering mode

In the warm season, the ground needs to be watered thoroughly, but they do this as its top layer dries out. Despite the large green mass, the leathery surface of the monstera leaf plates helps it retain moisture. For irrigation, settled water is used. Starting in autumn, watering is reduced, waiting for several days after the soil begins to dry. But it is not worth bringing the earthen lump to complete drying out, this will affect the plant as badly as overflow.

Constant waterlogging can cause putrefaction and the appearance of spots on the leaves.

Air humidity

Monstera loves humid air (at least 50%), so it is advisable to regularly spray it with warm, settled water. If dust accumulates on the leaves, wipe them with a soft, damp cloth. It is advisable to carry out this procedure regularly.

Monstera is able to "predict" the weather by reflecting changes in humidity levels. On the upper part of its foliage, sticky droplets can form before precipitation or warming. The same sign, together with wilted leaves, may indicate overflow.

If the temperature is low in the room in winter, you can stop spraying the flower and just wipe the dust off the foliage.

The soil

The optimal soil composition for a young monstera includes peat, turf, sand and a double portion of humus.The reaction should be neutral or slightly acidic. An adult monstera prefers only neutral soil. For such a plant, a soil of peat, sand, leafy earth, turf and a triple part of humus is suitable. The planting capacity must match the size of the flower. A good drainage layer is laid on the bottom.

Top dressing

Only large, overgrown monsters need feeding. Such adult specimens are fertilized from the second half of spring to the end of summer. To do this, 2 times a month, mineral and organic fertilizers are introduced into the soil, alternating them. You can use complex additives for decorative deciduous (if necessary - variegated) plants. Adult plants are sometimes foliar fed.

In winter, the monster is not fertilized: activating the growth of leaves in a period of low light will not add beauty to the plant.

Transplant features

Despite its impressive size, monstera is a rather fragile plant. Because of this, it is not recommended to keep it on the aisles: there is a risk of damaging its spectacular leaves. Flower transplant also needs to be done very carefully. Until the age of two, the monster is transplanted annually, then every two years. A large bush over 5 years old, which is already difficult to lift, is moved even less often - if necessary. To prevent the potting soil from being depleted, the topsoil should be renewed every year.

For a monstera cutting, you need a pot of at least 20 cm in diameter and about the same height. It is better to give preference to heavy, sustainable options. Large species gradually grow to containers with a displacement of up to 20 liters. Smaller ones, upon reaching the maximum size, will need no more than 10 liters. It is not recommended to pick up a pot "in reserve": the earth in them dries longer and can lead to diseases.

Support

The growing monster needs to be supported. Usually the bush is tied to a support or reinforced on a trellis. A stick with coconut fiber is suitable for a young plant. The larger one can lean on furniture or wall mounts. But such a design will make transplants impossible.

Pruning

Regular pruning is not required for the plant, but shaping can be carried out. To obtain a more spreading bush, the stem of a young plant is cut no more than two times. But such a monster will take up much more space over time. The method is optimal for specimens growing in spacious rooms.

If the plant is too old and has begun to slow down, it is rejuvenated by cutting off the top. In this way, the growth of lateral stems can be stimulated.

Aerial roots

Air roots are formed on the leaf blades of the monstera. They absolutely must not be plucked or cut off. If these roots are lowered into the soil (you can use the main pot or additional ones), the nutrition of the whole flower will improve. If the length of such roots is not yet sufficient for immersion in a pot, you can tie them up with wet moss, immerse them in a bag of earth, or lower them in a container of water (a plastic bottle tied to the stem will do).

Sometimes a plastic tube filled with soil is used to feed the air roots. The roots are passed through the holes located on it.

Flowering period

In the natural environment, you can observe monstera flowers annually, but in indoor conditions you should not count on frequent flowering. Proper care and a large amount of nutrients can stimulate this process.

In order for a plant to bloom, it needs to create certain conditions:

• move the plant to the east, west or north of the room;
• watering more often in the summer;
• the soil should pass air well, keep moisture in sufficient quantity;
• there must be drainage at the bottom of the flower pot;
• the aerial roots of the plant should be planted in separate pots with soil;
• it is useful to fertilize the plant with solutions;
• monstera leaves must be protected from parasites.

The inflorescence is a long ear covered with a white or cream-colored blanket.After some time, fruits are tied on the flower. When they ripen, the veil dries up and falls off. Outwardly, the ripe monstera fruit resembles greenish corn with creamy grains-berries. They exude a fruity aroma and are considered edible. In some tropical countries, the gourmet monstera is cultivated precisely for its delicious and sweet fruits. It takes about 15 months to ripen.

Ripe fruits are considered when the green scales of the skin begin to fall off from them. Moreover, one such ear can ripen gradually. Until this happens, the pulp of the berries is considered unfit for food and can even burn the mucous membrane. The ripe fruit is not stored for a long time.

Virulence

The juice of the green part of monstera can cause skin irritation, and if ingested, poisoning. Burning unripe fruits are also of great danger; only ripe fruits can be eaten.

Monstera breeding methods

Growing from seeds

Monstera seeds are found at the bottom of its fruit. Due to the fact that they very quickly lose their germination, this method of cultivation is rarely practiced. To speed up the process, you can try to germinate the planting material. To do this, put the seeds in a jar with slightly damp moss. For successful germination, the room temperature must be at least +23 degrees. Such seeds can hatch within a month or even two. After that, the seeds are planted in individual cups. Seeds should not be buried too deeply. After that, the future seedlings are placed in a bright place and covered with foil until the shoots appear.

Young sprouts do not have slits on the leaves yet. Foliage of the usual shape begins to form only after about six months. Two-year-old seedlings will have about 4 cut leaves and about 5 simple (juvenile) ones.

If the sprouts were in a common container, slightly grown vines dive in separate pots, and then transplanted according to the general principle: annually.

Propagation by cuttings

Cutting monstera can be done during the period of its active growth: in spring and summer. For such reproduction, lateral processes are suitable, as well as cuttings from the stems or tops of the plant. For successful rooting and growth, it must have at least one or two leaves and an aerial root, under which the cut is made. For disinfection, the resulting sections are powdered with coal.

Each stalk is placed in an individual pot, and covered with a jar or bag on top. The pot itself must have a drainage layer, a small layer of peat or humus and a few centimeters of sand are laid out on top as a soil. It takes about a couple of weeks to root.

The stalk needs to be watered twice a day - in the morning and in the evening. The pot with it is kept in a warm place, where the temperature does not drop below +20 degrees. After the roots appear, the seedling is moved to another container. When the monstera begins to grow, after 3-4 years it is transplanted again, already in a large tub.

You can try to propagate the plant by placing its leaf in the water, on which there is a "heel" - a piece of the stem. If it gives roots, it is planted in the ground, at the same time tied to a support so that it does not lean under its own weight.

Apical reproduction

As it develops, the monstera sheds the lower leaves and gradually loses its decorative properties. To remedy the situation, you can cut off the top of the plant. To do this, select 2 upper air roots, wrap them in wet moss and fix them on the main trunk. When the roots begin to grow, this part of the trunk is cut off. The sections should also be decontaminated. You can first cut off the top 30 cm of the trunk, and then put it in water for germination.

The trimmed top is planted in a separate pot, covering the roots and the cut site with soil. After that, the mother bush will begin to release side shoots that will fill the bare spots.

Possible growing problems

Diseases of monstera are often caused by mistakes in care or a violation of the regime of its containment.

• Pulling out the bush - the lack of light forces the plant to stretch upward in search of the sun. In this case, the stem can curl, and young leaves become smaller and pale.
• Falling foliage and stunted growth - also a consequence of the lack of sunlight.
• No cuts on the leaves - young leaves usually do not have cuts, but if they do not appear over time, it is possible that the flower does not have enough nutrients or lighting.
• Pale color of young foliageon the contrary, it indicates too bright the sun. Yellow spots on the leaf plates can also indicate this.
• Leaves turn yellow due to lack of nutrients. Another possible cause is decay due to overflow.
• Leaves are brown and dry - excessively low humidity or too small a pot. Do not place the plant next to heating devices.
• Shedding foliage - a sign of her aging. If the leaves dry before falling off and acquire a brown color, the air temperature in the room should be lowered.
• Lack of new leaves - perhaps the support of the monstera is too weak.
• The appearance of brown spots on the leaves - a sign of a spider mite. Usually such spots are located on the seamy side. In addition to him, of the insect pests, the scabbard and aphids most often settle on the monster.

If there has never been a monstera in the house yet, but you really want to start, then you need to take into account the fact that the plant can occupy most of the room. It is designed for large rooms. And this flower is popularly called "touchy" - the monstera does not like it when its leaves are touched.

Types and varieties of monstera with a photo

Monstera adansonii

In nature, it lives in the Brazilian and Costa Rican tropics. Monstera adansonii is an 8-meter long vine. It is distinguished by thin oblong leaves from 25 cm to half a meter long. Each leaf has a series of holes.

This type of monstera almost does not bloom in indoor conditions. Its flower is a yellow ear up to 12 cm high and about 2 cm wide.

There is a variegated form with yellow streaks.

Monstera deliciosa

A native of the humid forests of Central America. Young leaves in Monstera deliciosa are heart-shaped, but over time they increase in size and acquire numerous holes, and later, cuts. The height of the plant at home can reach 3 meters, and in greenhouses it reaches 12 m. The length of the leaf in an adult specimen reaches half a meter.

With proper care, it can bloom annually. The flower of this species reaches a height of 25 cm and has a white veil. Its ripe fruits are edible and taste and smell like pineapple.

It has several subspecies, including variegata with variegated foliage covered with green and white marble stains. But such monsters grow much more slowly and require more careful care. They need a lot of light to preserve the beauty of their foliage.

Monstera Borziga (Monstera deliciosa borsigiana)

Artificial species derived from a Mexican plant variety. Monstera deliciosa borsigiana has thinner stems and small, heart-shaped leaves up to 30 cm in size. Good for pot growing.

Oblique monstera (Monstera obliqua)

Either monstera expilata (Monstera expilata) or sickle (Monstera falcifolia). Climbing vine from the Brazilian and Guiana rainforests. The name is associated with the asymmetry of its leaves at the base. It is appreciated for its more compact size. In length, one-piece leaf blades can reach 20 cm, and in width - 6 cm. They have oblong holes, but there are no cuts. The surface of the leaf is wrinkled and slightly embossed. The petiole usually does not exceed 13 cm. It can be grown as an ampelous plant.

The inflorescence of this species is a small ear with few flowers, holding on to a longer peduncle.

Monstera punched (Monstera pertusa)

Liana from the tropical zone of America. Its almost meter-long leaves have an elongated ovoid shape.They are up to 25 cm wide. The cuts and holes on them are unevenly spaced, the sides of each sheet also have slightly different sizes.

The inflorescence of Monstera pertusa is a 10-centimeter ear with a large white blanket up to 20 cm long.