Clerodendrum

The plant Clerodendrum, or clerodendron, is a representative of the Lamiaceae family, previously referred to as Verbenova. The genus includes more than 300 species, which are deciduous or evergreen trees or shrubs with liana-like shoots. In their natural environment, clerodendrum can be found on the African and South American continents, as well as in Asian countries.

The name of clerodendrum can be translated as "the tree of fate." It is also known as "innocent love" and popular belief is capable of bringing happiness in your personal life. The old name of clerodendrum - "volcalmeria" is also in use. Such plants were once referred to this genus.

This tropical plant has long been known to gardeners, but is rarely found as a houseplant. At the same time, clerodendrum has unpretentious care and durability, and its unusual flowers and pleasant aroma can become the highlight of any flower arrangement.

Description of clerodendrum

Shoots of clerodendrum quickly begin to grow stiff from the base. Plants have bright green leaves, located opposite or collected in whorls. They are heart-shaped and wrinkled. The edge of the leaves can be smooth or serrated. The length of each sheet is about 20-30 cm.

Inflorescences are located at the ends of the branches and represent brushes or shields. They usually have light, bell-shaped bracts, on which there are unusual butterfly-shaped flowers with noticeable stamens. Even after the flowers have fallen off, the bracts continue to retain their attractive appearance for some time. Benge and Filipino species form inflorescences similar to bouquets. Both flowers and foliage of such plants have a pleasant smell, while it is individual for each species.

Clerodendrum lends itself well to crown formation. Thanks to trimming and pinching, you can give them the appearance of a bush or trunk, or make the plant ampelous.

Brief rules for growing clerodendrum

The table shows brief rules for caring for clerodendrum at home.

Caring for clerodendrum at home

As a native of the tropics, Clerodendrum prefers warmth and humidity, so for the plant to develop healthy, it is necessary to create home care conditions similar to those in nature.

Lighting

Clerodendrum needs a sufficient amount of light, but the flower should not be exposed to bright rays. It is recommended to keep it on the east or west windows. If the plant is kept on the south side, it is placed a little further from the light source or slightly shaded. Leaving the flower pot in a too shady place is not worth it. Flowering in such conditions will not occur, and sometimes clerodendrum even sheds foliage. Lamps will help to compensate for the lack of lighting.

Temperature

During the development period, a moderately high temperature of 18-25 degrees is suitable for clerodendrum. In summer, the pot with the plant can be kept on the balcony or other open, but protected from drafts. In winter, when clerodendrum is resting, it should be kept cool (no higher than 15 degrees). During this period, the flower can shed some of the leaves, but in the spring new ones will appear instead.

Some plant species that flower throughout the year do not need a drop in temperature in winter. Care for them is left the same.

Watering

Soft water is also used to water the clerodendrum. Watering is carried out as the soil dries out. Their number depends on the conditions in which the flower is located. The warmer it will be in the room, the more often and more abundantly it should be watered. In cool weather, the number of waterings is reduced, but it is impossible to completely dry out the soil lump. Excess water from the pan must be drained to prevent waterlogging.

Humidity level

A tropical plant needs high humidity, therefore, from spring to August, in the evenings, clerodendrum is sprayed with soft, well-settled water. To increase the humidity will help placing the flower on a pallet with damp moss so that the bottom of the container does not come into contact with water. In winter, spraying is not carried out, the plant is kept away from air-drying heating devices. It is because of the love for humid air, as well as because of the impressive size that the bush can reach, that clerodendrum is often grown not at home, but in a greenhouse.

The soil

To plant clerodendrum, a slightly acidic and nutritious soil is required. You can use ready-made substrates by adding sand to them. For self-preparation of the planting mixture, sand is mixed with clay and leafy soil, as well as peat. Any soil will need preliminary disinfection by calcining or processing with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Top dressing

You should feed Clerodendrum every couple of weeks. Fertilization begins in spring, when the plant comes out of hibernation.If clerodendrum is transplanted during this period, no feeding is carried out for some time: the plant will have enough nutrients from fresh soil. The feeding period ends in August, when the bush begins to prepare for winter. Complex mineral compositions for flowering species are used as fertilizer. It is important not to oversaturate the flower with nitrogen: an excess of this element stimulates the growth of foliage, but can harm flowering. During the dormant period, it is not necessary to fertilize the clerodendrum.

Transfer

You should transplant clerodendrum if the old pot has become too small for it or the substrate is depleted. The best time for transplanting is considered spring, when the plant begins to resume growth. The clerodendrum should be repotted after pruning. Young bushes need an annual change in capacity, older ones can be moved less often - once every 2-3 years.

The planting capacity should exceed the old pot in diameter and height by about 2 cm. A drainage layer at least 3 cm thick is laid on its bottom. Clerodendrum is transferred to a new place along with the soil lump, trying not to destroy it. Most varieties of this flower have fragile and easily injured roots. The voids are filled with fresh soil, after which the plant is watered. If the clerodendrum is formed in such a way that it needs support, it is installed precisely during transplantation so as not to injure the root system. You should also take care in advance that an actively developing bush does not overturn its capacity. To prevent this from happening, the pot must be heavy enough.

Pruning

Pruning is one of the essential cleaning procedures for clerodendrum. It is carried out annually after the plant resumes growth after a dormant period - at the end of winter. For species that do not go into hibernation, pruning is carried out in the fall, when their flowering ends.

The bush is cleaned of dry and weak shoots, and then all its branches are shortened by about a third. Such actions stimulate the development of lateral branches, on which flowers are formed. With this pruning, the flowering will become more lush.

You can also trim the crown to the desired shape by trimming. Clerodendrum growing in the form of a bush will not need support. For such a formation in spring, the shoots of the plant are significantly shortened. To turn the clerodendrum into a standard tree, only one, the largest and most powerful shoot is left on it, cutting it off at a height of about 50-70 cm. The stems appearing at the top are pinched, forming the crown of the future tree, and the lower branches are cut off.

Bloom

The flowering of different types of clerodendrum can occur at different times, but often it lasts from June to September. So during this period, the beautiful clerodendrum forms unusually attractive panicles, collected from flowers of purple color. In the spring of Clerodendrum Thompson, snow-white bracts form on bare shoots in the spring, on which bright crimson flowers later bloom, reaching 2.5 cm in diameter. Fragrant Clerodendrum has a development cycle different from other species and blooms almost all year round.

Breeding methods for clerodendrum

For propagation of clerodendrum, seeds or cuttings are used.

Growing from seeds

After flowering, fruits are formed on the clerodendrum, inside of which one seed ripens. They should be sown at the very end of February or early March. The planting container is filled with a mixture of sand, peat and turf, and then the seeds are spread over the surface of the substrate. Crops are placed in greenhouse conditions and try to provide them with a sufficient amount of light. Some growers keep seeds in the dark until sprouts appear. The greenhouse is opened every day, and the soil is checked and, if necessary, re-moistened. Seedlings should appear in about 1.5-2 months.

When the sprouts have 4 true leaves, they are dived into small individual pots (up to 6 cm in diameter).You can use larger (up to 11 cm) pots, 3 plants are planted in them at once. When the clerodendrum plants are properly rooted and grow, you can begin to care for them as if they were mature plants. But any changes in content must be implemented gradually.

Cuttings

Mature clerodendrum bushes can be propagated by cuttings. In this capacity, the tops of the shoots are used, which remain after spring pruning and have 2-3 nodes. During this period, the segments form roots faster when placed in water. They can usually take months to form. Stimulants of root formation will help speed up the procedure. So the Ugandan Clerodendrum is distinguished by a more active rate of root formation, and the Bunge and Filipino species reproduce faster and more reliably by root shoots. Wallace's clerodendrum is recommended to be immediately planted in the substrate - there the cutting will form roots faster.

After the formation of the roots, the seedlings are distributed in individual containers with a diameter of about 7 cm, and then covered with a cap. The soil surface in the pots should remain slightly damp at all times. When the cuttings are finally rooted and begin to grow, they are transferred to a larger (9 cm) pot along with a soil ball. The seedling will grow in it until next spring. He no longer needs greenhouse conditions during this period.

A year after rooting, the seedlings are transferred into pots about 11 cm in diameter, using the same soil as for adult specimens. For a year, the shoots of such a seedling are pinched twice to form a thicker crown.

Possible growing difficulties

Major pests

Clerodendrum can be affected by whiteflies or spider mites. In the first case, the insects themselves will be on the inside of the leaves, and traces of their presence will form on the outside: a plaque called honeydew. Spider mites are difficult to spot due to their tiny size, but they will leave small light spots on the inside of the leaves, as well as a thin cobweb. Most often, insects infect weakened plants, and also appear during periods of high dry air. An insecticide or acaricide is used against such pests. Follow the instructions. When using systemic drugs, treatments are repeated several times with an interval of several days.

Clerodendrum does not bloom

One of the most common problems encountered when growing Clerodendrum is the lack of flowers. Usually this is due to a violation of the conditions that the plant requires: most often the reason is the lack of a cool wintering place. It is the dormant period that is a prerequisite for the formation of buds. Flowering can be harmed by excess nitrogen fertilizers, or, conversely, insufficiently nutritious soil.

To be sure to enjoy the view of clerodendrum flowers next season, after flowering, you should gradually reduce the number of waterings. The pot with a bush is transferred to the cool (no more than 15 degrees). The most suitable temperature for wintering is 12 degrees. Watering is rarely carried out in order to prevent the soil from drying out. Abundant moisture at such a time can lead to the development of diseases.

The rest period for clerodendrum lasts approximately 1.5-2 months. This time is enough to recuperate the bush before the new season. When the plant begins to form fresh shoots, the number of waterings is gradually increased, and then pruning is carried out. If necessary, the bush should be transplanted.

The resumed growth of clerodendrum is transferred to its original place, in the warmth, and feeding begins. The nutritional value of the soil also affects the abundance of flowering: flowers will not appear on poor soil. Another important condition for budding: a sufficient amount of light. A clerodendrum placed in the shade can shed its buds.

Clerodendrum leaves turn yellow

If the foliage of the clerodendrum begins to turn yellow in the spring or summer, the reason for this phenomenon may be insufficiently frequent or abundant watering. The plants should be watered so that a little water remains in the pan - it is then drained. If the foliage is not completely yellow, but is covered with yellow spots, chlorosis is a likely cause. The bushes should be fed with a preparation containing iron - such measures will help provide the flower with quick help. To completely get rid of chlorosis, it is necessary to identify the exact cause of its appearance and adjust the care of the flower, as well as establish a feeding regime.

Flying leaves

If clerodendrum leaves fly around in autumn or winter, this process is considered natural - this is how deciduous species behave. Yellowing and flying around can continue throughout the entire wintering period. If the leaves began to fall off in the warm season, it means that the clerodendrum does not like the conditions of detention. The care of the flower should be adjusted or the pot with it should be moved to another place.

Other flower problems also signal improper care. So brown spots on the leaves are most often sunburns, the drying of the edges of the foliage is caused by dry air, and the stretching of the shoots and their exposure is a lack of lighting.

Types and varieties of clerodendrum with photos and names

Clerodendrum thomsoniae

One of the most popular clerodendrum. Clerodendrum thomsoniae is a deciduous vine with thin woody stems. Its foliage is large enough (up to 12 cm long) and dense. The leaf blades have a rich green color and pronounced veins. There may be dark or light spots on the surface of the leaf. Flowering lasts from early spring to June. White swollen bracts are complemented by graceful bright red flowers with long light stamens. They form loose racemose inflorescences in the leaf axils. You can propagate this species at home only with the help of cuttings. Such plants have a fast growth rate.

Clerodendrum splendens

This type of clerodendrum does not shed its leaves. Clerodendrum splendens has curly stems complemented by an almost rounded foliage with a heart-shaped base. The leaf blades have wavy edges and a slightly pointed tip. The length of the leaf reaches 8 cm, the width is up to 6 cm. Small inflorescences located in the axils can be in the form of a brush or shield. They are made up of bright red flowers that appear on the plant almost all year round under the right growing conditions.

Clerodendrum philippinum

This species is highly unpretentious, although it is grown relatively rarely. Clerodendrum philippinum has broad, velvety, dark green foliage. From the second year of life, beautiful inflorescences are formed on the bush, reaching 20 cm in diameter. They are formed by flowers resembling small roses, due to which the inflorescence itself turns into a miniature "bouquet". In the buds, the flowers have a dark pink color, and when blooming, they become almost white. The size of each flower reaches 3 cm in diameter. A distinctive feature of this species is a strong, but quite pleasant aroma, at the same time reminiscent of jasmine and vanilla. By the evening, its intensity increases.

Clerodendrum ugandense

This evergreen species is a vine up to 2 m long. Clerodendrum ugandense has broad-lanceolate, deep green foliage. At the tips of the shoots, there are medium-sized inflorescences of butterfly flowers. The similarity with them is provided not only by oval petals of different sizes, but also by long stamens, similar to antennae. The petals - "wings" are blue in color, and the lower, larger petal is colored in shades of lilac or violet. With appropriate pruning, a miniature tree or bush can be formed from such a vine. The plant needs brighter lighting, as well as moist soil.

Fragrant Clerodendrum (Clerodendrum fragrans)

The bush reaches 2 m in height. Clerodendrum fragrans has hairy shoots and leaves. The length of the leaf plates reaches 20 cm, and their edges are covered with deep teeth. Inflorescences about 8 cm wide appear at the tops of the branches. They are made up of simple or double flowers of a pale pink color. Their aromas are reminiscent of violet and citrus. The species is remarkable for almost year-round flowering.

Clerodendrum wallichiana

Or Clerodendrum Prospero. This type is also called the bride's veil or Cleopatra's tears. The flowers of Clerodendrum wallichiana are snow-white in color and graceful in shape. They make up lush inflorescences. The bush itself is compact. Its reddish shoots have 4 sides, they have oval-lanceolate foliage of saturated green color. The edges of the leaves are wavy, and their size is about 5-8 cm. This species is considered one of the most capricious. For full growth, he needs high humidity and a certain light regime.

Clerodendrum speciosum

The size of the bush reaches 3 m. Clerodendrum speciosum also has tetrahedral stems capable of branching, and its foliage resembles green hearts covered with villi. Each leaf is located on a reddish petiole. Paniculate inflorescences are located at the tops of the shoots. They are made up of small purple flowers, complemented by bright red corollas. Flowering is abundant and occurs in the summer months.

Other popular types of clerodendrum that can be grown at home include:

• Bunge - the homeland of this species is China. Its globular inflorescences, formed by small flowers with protruding stamens, resemble small fireworks. The color of the flowers is pink. Flowering lasts all summer.
• Inerme (either naval, unarmed) - this vine has emerald-colored leaves and white butterfly flowers, complemented by purple stamens. This species has a variegated form.
• Schmidt - Plants have oval leaves with a wavy border. Fragrant flowers are white and collected in racemose drooping inflorescences.