Philodendron

The plant philodendron (Philodendron) is a representative of the Aroid family. This large genus includes about 900 different species, some of which still remain unexplored. Philodendrons are native to the Australian and American tropics, as well as the Pacific islands. You can meet such plants in humid and warm corners: near rivers and swamps, as well as in forest areas.

The name of the plant means "I love the tree." This is due to the structural peculiarity of philodendrons, which are not able to grow without a large support located nearby. Such plants can be complete or partial epiphytes, gradually migrating to the support. Most often, philodendrons are kept in trees with the help of aerial roots. If there is no large support next to the bush, its shoots will trudge along the ground in the direction of the shadow cast by the nearest tree. Along with the air roots, the philodendron also develops underground ones. They use thin, hair-like roots to attach to supports, and large and long ones to receive nutrients. At the same time, some features of the structure of philodendrons still raise many questions among scientists.

Indoors, only certain types of philodendron can be grown. This is due to the impressive size of adult specimens, which will fit only in a spacious house. By its appearance, the philodendron is a bit like a monster from the same family.

Description of the philodendron

Philodendron has fleshy shoots that begin to grow stiff at the base. Its alternate foliage is petioled and has an impressive size - up to 2 m in length. Leaves can vary in shape: it is oval, feathery, or resembles an arrow. In the guitar-shaped philodendron, the foliage resembles a guitar in outlines. Sometimes on one plant there are leaves of different shapes and sizes - this feature is associated with the conditions of its natural habitat. During flowering, an ear appears on the bush with a blanket, usually in the shape of a hood. Interestingly, each species of such a plant pollinates a separate species of beetles. After flowering, fruit-berries are formed.

Most often, philodendrons, like many representatives of the Aroids, are grown in spacious places: halls or greenhouses. In the limited space of an ordinary apartment, only a few plant species are best placed: climbing, warty and Sello. The first grows well in hanging containers, turning into an ampelous plant. This philodendron easily tolerates the lack of lighting and is not capricious in its care.The warty species also has a relatively small size and beautiful foliage, but it needs support. Sello species reaches 1.5 m in height, but is able to grow in breadth. The foliage of such a plant reaches 80 cm in length.

It is important to remember that philodendrons are considered poisonous. The juice of such vines has a different color and is capable of irritating the mucous membrane, as well as the skin. All work with the flower should be carried out with gloves, and the tools should be thoroughly washed after use. It is also best to keep this plant away from children or pets.

Brief rules for growing a philodendron

The table shows brief rules for caring for a philodendron at home.

Caring for a philodendron at home

Despite significant external differences, caring for different types of philodendron is practically the same.

Lighting

To form a bush with a more developed and beautiful crown, you need to choose the right place. As a rule, philodendrons prefer diffused lighting, but are afraid of direct rays. If the species has variegated foliage, it needs more sunlight. Climbing and blushing species of philodendron are considered the most shade-loving.

Temperature

Philodendron is thermophilic and tolerates periods of high temperature, if the flower is provided with a sufficient level of humidity. The most comfortable conditions for growing a bush are considered to be 20-25 degrees. If the room gets hotter than 25 degrees, you need to help the plant cope with potential overheating. To do this, wipe the leaves with a damp cloth soaked in settled water, or spray them. But you should not take the flower pot outside. Its impressive size can make it difficult to move, in addition, the philodendron is sensitive to cold drafts.

In winter, the temperature in the room can be reduced, but it should not be colder than 15 degrees.

Watering

Philodendron needs regular watering, most of all the plant needs moisture during the period of its most active growth - in spring and summer. Watering is carried out as the top layer of the soil dries out, focusing on the temperature in the room. It is important that water does not stagnate in the pan - after watering, you need to wait an hour, and then drain the excess liquid. If the room is cold, the flower is watered less often. Abundant moisture during this period can lead to the appearance of diseases and yellowing of the foliage. But, reducing watering, you should not wait for the soil to dry completely. Drought leads to the shedding of foliage, as well as the loss of the decorative appearance of the bush.

To water the philodendron, use soft water. It can be boiled or rained, but the usual settled one will do.It is important that the water does not contain lime - for this reason, water from a well should not be used for irrigation, it can leave streaks on the leaves of the bush.

The bottle philodendron does not need frequent watering - this plant is considered a succulent.

Humidity level

Plants live in humid tropical forests, so it is difficult for them to tolerate the dry air of apartments. Philodendron needs regular spraying, especially during the heating season. Excessive dryness of the air will lead to shrinking of the leaves of the plant. Young philodendron bushes can be bathed in the shower. If the shrub grows on a support wrapped in coconut fiber, you can periodically moisten it. Wiping the sheet plates with a damp cloth will also help. Spraying and wiping is carried out with soft and lukewarm water. This procedure helps both to increase moisture and to cleanse the foliage. It is not recommended to use chemical polishes for plants.

The soil

For growing a philodendron, nutritious, but light and breathable, slightly acidic soil is suitable. You can use ready-made orchid substrates for them, including bark, peat, sphagnum and charcoal. For self-preparation, use a mixture of peat with humus, a double part of turf and half of a sand. For older plants, a substrate of coniferous and leafy soil with the addition of peat and sand is suitable.

Top dressing

In nature, the philodendron has enough fertilizers around it. In addition to precipitation, bushes draw nutrients from decayed foliage and dung of forest dwellers. At home, philodendrons should be fed during the period of their active development - from March to the end of August, once every couple of weeks. In autumn and winter, fertilizers continue to be applied, but a lower dosage is used, or the frequency of fertilizing is reduced. In a warm room, it will be enough to fertilize the bushes once a month. Usually, universal formulations or mixtures for plants with beautiful foliage are used for these purposes.

Nitrogen supplements will help regulate plant height. The presence of nitrogen will make the bush taller and larger, but if the philodendron is left more compact, nitrogen is used only in small doses. It is important not to overdo it with fertilizers - from an excess of them, the leaves may turn yellow.

Transfer

Until the bushes of the philodendron reach maturity, they are transplanted annually. Adult plants are moved 2-3 times less often, if necessary. Transplants are carried out when the bushes cease to fit in the old pot and slow down the growth rate. For large specimens, the topsoil is replaced. Bushes are usually transplanted to a new place along with an earthen clod.

Philodendron breeding methods

For the reproduction of the philodendron, seeds are used, as well as parts of the bush - cuttings, layering, leaves, sections of the trunk or tops of the shoots.

Cuttings

The easiest way to get new specimens of the bush is using apical cuttings or stems with a pair of internodes. Periodic pruning contributes to the rejuvenation of the plant, and also improves its growth rate, therefore, the shoots remaining from it can be used for reproduction. The separated section will need high humidity and heat - 25-30 degrees. The cuttings are planted in a wet sandy substrate at an angle of 45 degrees, and covered with a transparent bag on top. Every day, the bag is slightly opened for airing, gradually increasing the time the seedling stays in the air. Rooting occurs in 2-4 weeks.

Reproduction by layering

For the formation of a layering on the shoot, an incision is made and tied with a damp cloth. In a few weeks, roots will appear in this place, after which the layers are cut off and planted like a cutting. Rooting takes place in a shorter time - after all, the seedling already has roots.

Growing from seeds

Some philodendrons (eg Sello) are more likely to reproduce by seed. Before sowing, they must be kept in a growth stimulator for about a day, and then the shell must be scarified.As a substrate, use ordinary light soil, adding coconut fiber to it. Seeds are spread on the surface of damp ground, and then covered with a bag and placed in a bright and warm place. It usually takes about 1.5 months for seedlings to emerge. The pick is carried out at the stage of a pair of true leaves, and next spring the seedlings are transferred into new pots.

Seed propagation can also be used to obtain hybrid forms of the plant. For this, two simultaneously flowering bushes are artificially pollinated.

Pests and diseases

A philodendron, which is properly looked after, is practically not susceptible to attacks of harmful insects. But weakened plants can be affected by thrips, spider mites, or scale insects.

Plant diseases are often also caused by improper keeping conditions:

• Pulling stems, insufficiently bright color of foliage - lack of lighting.
• Dry leaf tips are a sign of low moisture levels.
• Light dry spots on the foliage - sunburn, the flower needs to be shaded.
• Leaf curling is often associated with excess fertilizer. You can rinse the soil ball to remove excess nutrients, or transplant the bush into fresh soil. At the same time, yellowish and small fresh leaves indicate a lack of nutrition.
• Decay of the stem, wilting of foliage - an excess of moisture in the soil. Watering should be suspended, and the plant should be rearranged to a warmer and brighter corner. You can replace the soil with a lighter one.
• Blackening of leaves - insufficiently high temperature in the room.
• Yellowing of the leaves - periodic dying off of the lower plates is a natural sign of growth, but if the rest of the leaves began to turn yellow, the bush experiences stress (overflow, lack of heat or light) and needs to change the growing conditions.

Types and varieties of philodendrons with photos and names

Of the huge number of natural species of philodendron, the following are most often grown at home:

Philodendron golden black (Philodendron melanochrysum)

Or Philodendron Andre (Philodendron andreanum). This species has a high degree of decorativeness due to the different shape of the foliage, as well as its unusual color. The young foliage of Philodendron melanochrysum (andreanum) is heart-shaped and small - up to 7 cm in length. It is painted in a coppery shade of red. As they grow older, the leaves acquire more impressive sizes (in the natural environment, their length reaches 80 cm), becomes more elongated and change color to dark green with a bronze tint. The veins of the leaf are lighter in color; a thin light border also runs along the edge of the plate. This species reacts sharply to insufficient air humidity.

Philodendron brilliant (Philodendron micans)

The species is a medium-sized liana with thin shoots. Philodendron micans has leaves with a velvety surface. Young leaves are colored reddish, adults acquire a brownish-green color. The size of the leaf is about 10 cm in length, and no more than 5 cm in width. The peculiarity of such a philodendron is unpretentiousness in care.

Philodendron verrucosum

A widespread species in floriculture, distinguished by its high attractiveness. Philodendron verrucosum has velvety foliage in the shape of hearts up to 20 cm long. The surface of the petioles is covered with small warts and pubescent. The main condition for growing such a philodendron is sufficient moisture.

Philodendron panduriforme

The leaves of this species have a bizarre shape, reminiscent of a guitar, and their maximum size reaches half a meter. Philodendron panduriforme is easy to care for. Several spectacular hybrids have been obtained on its basis.

Philodendron bipinnatifidum

This split-foliage look bears a significant resemblance to the popular Sello house philodendron. At the same time, Philodendron bipinnatifidum is quite rare in floriculture. Both of these plants are rather large vines with woody shoots.

Philodendron blushing (Philodendron erubescens)

The most common species, often becoming the basis for breeding new varieties of philodendron. Philodendron erubescens is a vine with reddish shoots. As the plant ages, the trunk of the plant becomes stiff and takes on a grayish-golden color. The foliage is located on dark red petioles and is up to 30 cm long and up to 20 cm wide. During the flowering period, the species forms a flower-cob up to 15 cm long. It exudes a pleasant scent and is covered with a rich purple veil. The popularity of the species is associated with its unpretentiousness and resistance to mistakes in care: this philodendron is able to withstand low humidity, periods of drought and even a lack of light.