The Echinocactus plant is one of the most popular representatives of the Cactus family. Unpretentious and pleasant-looking echinocactus do not need complicated care and even have medicinal properties. In nature, such plants are found in the southwest of America, as well as in the Mexican deserts. The name of the genus can be translated as "hedgehog cactus" - it is the curled hedgehog that resembles the rounded thorny stems of its representatives. The genus includes only 6 species.
In the homeland of such cacti, in Mexico, the pulp of some species is used to prepare desserts and various dishes. Due to a decrease in the population of such plants, their natural specimens are under state protection. For other needs, echinocactus are grown in specially designated places.
Description of echinocactus
Most of the echinocactus have spherical shoots, slightly stretching upward as they develop. Adult specimens can grow up to 1.5 m, but some are able to stretch up to 3 m. The stems of such cacti are covered with protruding ribs, strewn with straight or curved spines. In young specimens up to 5 years of age, the ribs are more reminiscent of medium-sized tubercles. In some adult cacti, the number of ribs can reach fifty. On them are areoles covered with fluff. During the flowering period, yellow, pink or red flowers bloom at the top of the stem on a short tube covered with scales. Sometimes the flowers are arranged in circles, forming a semblance of a wreath on the cactus.
Of all the types of echinocactus, the most common and popular is Gruzon's echinocactus, named after a German industrialist and famous cactus grower. This is a slow-growing long-lived species, capable of living in nature for up to 500 years. Young plants are ball-shaped, but as they develop, they become more like a barrel. A number of popular names for such cacti are associated with this - from “golden barrel” or “golden ball” to “mother-in-law's pillow”. An adult "barrel" can measure 1 m by 1.5 m. Starting from 3-4 years of age, the plant forms ribs covered with strong thorns. The number of edges reaches 45. The color of the stem is green. Areoles are located on the ribs, from which up to 4 central spines and about 10 radial spines grow. The top of the cactus has a characteristic "pubescence" in the form of a cap, formed by thorns that did not have time to get stronger. The color of the needles can vary from white to yellowish.
At home, the size of such an echinocactus is more modest - up to 40 cm thick and up to 60 cm high.But the plant can reach such dimensions only after several decades. Only adults (from 20 years old) also begin to bloom, therefore, at home, flowers on such cacti appear infrequently. The period of the appearance of flowers is at the end of spring. In the upper part of the stem, a bud appears on a leg, from which a yellow flower blooms. On the outside, its tube is pubescent. Thin, shiny petals darken as they approach the edge, and the corolla is about 5 cm.
Brief rules for growing echinocactus
The table shows brief rules for caring for echinocactus at home.
Lighting level | Plants prefer bright lighting, so keep them on southern windows. |
Content temperature | In spring and summer, echinocactus prefer warmth - about 25 degrees. In winter, the plant prefers coolness, but the temperature should not be lower than 8-10 degrees. |
Watering mode | In spring and summer, the soil is moistened only after complete drying. If the plant hibernates in the cool, it is not watered at all. |
Air humidity | The cactus does not need high humidity. |
The soil | For growing echinocactus, a neutral or slightly acidic substrate is suitable, in which moisture does not stagnate. |
Top dressing | From spring to late summer, you can fertilize the bushes with special formulations for cacti containing a minimum of nitrogen supplements. |
Transfer | Growing echinocactus are transplanted annually or once every couple of years - at the end of February. |
Bloom | The period of the appearance of flowers is at the end of spring. |
Dormant period | In winter, echinocactus retire. |
Reproduction | Seeds, kids. |
Pests | Scabbard, scale insect, cactus mite. |
Diseases | Root rot due to over-watering. |
Echinocactus care at home
The rules for caring for different echinocactus at home are almost the same. In order for such green "hedgehogs" to remain healthy and beautiful, the basic simple conditions of their cultivation should be followed.
Lighting
Echinocactus prefer bright lighting, so you should keep them on the southern windows. Natives of the Mexican vastness can withstand even direct sun well. In order for the stems to develop evenly, it is necessary to periodically turn them to the light with different sides.
Lack of lighting will cause the thorns to shed or thin out. To prevent planting from suffering from a lack of sun in winter, phytolamps can be used. In the spring, when the sun becomes more active, plantings can be slightly shaded so that after a period of rest they gradually get used to the new lighting regime.
Temperature
In spring and summer, echinocactus prefer warmth - about 25 degrees. But too much heat from 30 degrees and above can lead to a slowdown in the growth of plantings. In the summer, the cactus pot can be carried to the garden or to the balcony - the bushes love fresh air. It is good if the daily temperature fluctuates by about 7 degrees.
In winter, echinocactus retire. At this time, it is recommended to transfer them to a cool corner, where it is kept at about 12 degrees. But the temperature there should not fall below 8-10 degrees. In such conditions, the cactus will freeze, and its stem may become covered with brownish specks. A frozen plant can even be lost.
If echinocactus hibernates on a windowsill near the battery, one side it may begin to reach for warmth. To prevent the stem from deforming, the bush should be periodically turned.
Watering
The volume and frequency of watering is calculated based on the conditions in which the cactus is located. In spring and summer, the soil is moistened only after complete drying. Echinocactus can be watered with settled water at room temperature. It is recommended to use a watering can with a narrow spout - it will allow you to direct the stream so that water does not fall on the stems.
If the plant hibernates in the cool, it is not watered at all, but the cacti that remain warm should be watered with warm water about once a month.Excessive moistening of the soil can lead to the development of root rot, but in the complete absence of watering, the cactus stalk will begin to wrinkle. If a cactus is blooming, moisture should not get on its flowers. Excess liquid from the pallet must be drained.
Humidity level
Like most of its relatives, echinocactus does not need high humidity, so its stems are not sprayed. Periodically, their surface can be cleaned by arranging a shower bush and fanning it with a brush.
Capacity selection
For such cacti, low pots are suitable, the width of which is only slightly (1-2 cm) larger than the diameter of their stem. In a pot that is too wide, echinocactus can rot. The container must also be stable enough so that the tall plant does not overturn it. Echinocactus have weak roots that do not go deep. Based on the size of the root system, you can determine the height of the future pot. The roots in it should not bend upwards. You may need to add soil to the root collar, so there should be about 2 cm of stock at the top of the pot. There should be a place for drainage at the bottom of the tank, and holes for water drainage should be provided at the bottom.
The material of the pots can be different. Both plastic and ceramic options are suitable, but the latter must be glazed. Ceramic pots that do not have such a coating will evaporate moisture faster, cooling the cactus roots.
The soil
For growing echinocactus, a neutral or slightly acidic substrate is suitable, in which moisture does not stagnate. You can use ready-made mixtures for cacti, after adding baking powder to it - brick chips or small pebbles. To insure the plant against rot, it is recommended to add crushed charcoal to the soil. Crushed eggshells will help make the thorns stronger.
To prepare the soil for echinocactus on your own, river sand and leafy soil are mixed with two parts of sod land and half of small pebbles. Charcoal is also added to such a substrate.
Top dressing
During the period of the most active development - from spring to the end of summer - you can fertilize the bushes with special compositions for cacti containing a minimum of nitrogen supplements. This procedure is carried out no more than once a month. Organic food for echinocactus should not be used.
Transfer
Growing echinocactus are transplanted annually or once every couple of years - at the end of February, before the stem grows. Older cacti can be moved less frequently. Plant roots are fragile enough, and damage to them leads to disease and a long recovery process. Transplants are carried out only if the roots of the echinocactus have begun to rot, pests have settled on them, or the cactus has outgrown its old capacity too much.
Young specimens should be planted only in pre-sterilized soil. For disinfection, the substrate can be kept in the oven for about half an hour. It is also recommended to transplant recently acquired echinocactus, but they do not do this immediately, but after half a month or a month after purchase. During this time, the plant must get used to the changed habitat conditions.
In order not to get hurt by sharp thorns, you need to protect your hands with a thick layer of cloth or use special grabbing devices. Among them is a wire loop, which is carefully threaded between the thorns.
Holding on to the stem, the cactus is removed from the old pot and moved to a new one. 1-2 cm of the drainage layer is laid on its bottom, and then a little substrate. Echinocactus is placed in a pot so that its roots reach the new soil, but do not bend. Adult plants are transplanted with a soil ball. The voids in the new pot are filled with fresh soil, tamping it slightly. The root neck of the echinocactus is covered with sand, but the level of deepening is maintained. The transplant itself is carried out from dry soil to dry soil.A week after transplanting, the plant can be lightly watered - by this time its roots will have time to recover a little after moving.
The transplanted echinocactus begin to feed only 2-3 months after the transfer. This will allow the plant to recover and also use up the nutrients of the fresh soil. Too old and large cacti are no longer transplanted, but simply replaced with the top layer of the substrate in the pot.
Echinocactus breeding methods
Growing from seeds
Echinocactus can be propagated by seeds or babies. The first option is used quite often. The seeds of these plants can be found in the store. They have good germination, but need preliminary preparation. The seeds are placed in hot (up to 50 degrees) water for a couple of hours. Due to the strong shell of such seeds, some of the sprouts may not sprout, and sometimes they sprout with the roots up. You can use for processing soaking in a solution of a growth stimulant or a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
The container for planting echinocactus is filled with steamed sand, having previously laid a layer of expanded clay drainage on its bottom. Sowing is usually carried out in February-April. Seeds are spread on the sand without sprinkling or burying them, and then slightly moisten the soil. From above, the container is covered with foil and placed in a warm and bright place. Every day, the film is briefly removed, allowing the crops to ventilate, and, if necessary, spray the substrate with water. The sprouts should appear in a couple of weeks, after which they continue to be kept under cover for about a month, and then slowly weaned them off. When the seedlings get stronger, they dive into their own cups, replanting them again in the sand. Repeated transplants are carried out at the stage of the appearance of the first thorns, as well as when the thickness of the stem increases to 5 cm. After that, the seedling can already be planted in ordinary soil for cacti.
Reproduction by children
On adult plants of echinocactus, baby cacti can form. This most often occurs after damage to the stem. Sometimes, to obtain such offspring, the top of the stem is slightly scratched on purpose, but it is important not to overdo it - damage to the stem makes the echinocactus more susceptible to the development of rot.
When such shoots grow up, and they turn from six months to a year, the children are separated from the main bush and transplanted into the sand for rooting, providing them with a greenhouse in the form of a jar or bag. Before planting, it is necessary to dry a cut of such a cactus until it is covered with a film. For safety, you can also sprinkle crushed coal on the cut points on both plants. To prevent the planted baby from falling, you can prop it up with chopsticks or toothpicks. The roots of such a shoot will form in a couple of months, after which it will be possible to transplant it into a permanent pot.
Sometimes the children are not separated, but left on the main plant. So it looks more unusual.
Diseases and pests
Diseases
Hypothermia or excessive watering leads to diseases of echinocactus. So that the bush does not chill the roots, hibernating in the cool, it is necessary to place the pot with it on a warming support - a layer of newspapers or cardboard. Overflowing leads to the development of root rot, which can destroy the cactus, so you need to follow the watering schedule. A small number of damaged roots can be removed by cutting the sections and replanting the plant in fresh soil.
If the echinocactus is already significantly affected by root rot, you can try to save its tip, using it as a cutting. With the help of a sharp tool rubbed with an alcohol composition, the healthy part of the stem is cut off from the plant. From below it is slightly sharpened, turning it into a kind of blunt pencil. The area to be cut can be sprinkled with crushed coal or ash. The stalk is placed in a medium-sized empty container so that the cut point does not touch the walls. In a couple of weeks, small roots should form on it. After that, the cutting is planted in fresh soil according to general rules.
Pests
Echinocactus can be targeted by scale insects, scale insects, and cactus mites.If such pests are bred on one of the domestic plants, it is recommended to also check and treat all the others.
If the cactus was bought in a store, after purchasing it, it should be quarantined for a couple of weeks. If the bush has been affected by pests, during this time they should appear.
Shield
You can recognize the scale by the brown plaques on the surface of the plant. If they come off easily and have healthy green stem tissue underneath, this is a pest. A large number of scale insects lead to sticky secretions. A small number of insects can be removed manually by wiping the places of their accumulation with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. If the cactus is too prickly for this or the pests have had time to multiply, you must use an insecticide.
Cactus mite
Unlike its spider mite, this mite does not produce spider webs. It is tiny, almost microscopic in size and has a brownish red color. The pest leaves behind light brown spots. You can get rid of it only with the help of acaricide, which is used to spill the area near the roots and the soil itself. Spraying agents can also be used. To completely defeat the pest, at least 2 treatments are needed with a week break.
Scorms
The mealybug lives on the roots of echinocactus and near them, gradually spreading to the stems. Pests prefer areas near the areoles and between the ribs of the stem. They are covered with a light powdery coating. The affected echinocactus should be watered with a suitable insecticide, which will turn the plant sap into insect poison. If the worms lived on the roots, the bush should be transplanted into fresh soil. At the same time, the roots of the cactus are completely cleaned of the old soil mixture, and then the plant is immersed in hot (up to 50 degrees) water for 15 minutes to the level of the root collar. You can replace a similar procedure by immersion in Actellik solution for a shorter period. The pot can be replaced or the old container can be disinfected. Crushed coal should be added to the new soil, which also contributes to disinfection.
Types of echinocactus with photos and names
Most often, it is the echinocactus Gruzoni that is grown at home. The rest of the species outwardly differ from it in the color of flowers and thorns, as well as in the number of ribs. It is the number of ribs that is considered the best guideline when determining the type of echinocactus.
Echinocactus Grusonii (Echinocactus grusonii)
Or echinocactus Gruzon, Gruson. This species has rounded stems and light-colored needles. Echinocactus grusonii, as it grows, becomes barrel-shaped and stands out with numerous ribs. Their number is at least 35 pieces.
When choosing such a cactus in a store, remember that its thorns can only be painted in shades of white or light yellow. Instances with bright needles were obtained by adding special dyes to the ground to achieve a more decorative effect. Some time after the purchase, the needles of such a plant should acquire their natural color. Usually, food coloring is used to obtain exotic colors, but if the paints still contained substances harmful to the cactus, it can start to hurt. In addition, when entering the stem, dyes can hinder the production of chlorophyll. In order to be more likely to buy a healthy cactus, it is best to avoid this variety of flowers by choosing a more modest natural version of the plant. If a painted cactus has already been purchased, it is looked after as well as an ordinary one. But you can try to remove some of the paint by gently wiping the surface of the stem with a cotton swab dipped in warm water.
Echinocactus platyacanthus (Echinocactus platyacanthus)
Or echinocactus is wide-spined, huge. Mexican species up to 2 m tall. In width, Echinocactus platyacanthus (ingens) grows up to 1.5 m.No more than 25 ribs are formed on its stems. Areoles are located on them, complemented by wide gray needles with dark strokes. Their length can be from 3.5 to 4.5 cm. During the flowering period, yellow tubular flowers appear on the stems.Unlike Gruzon's echinocactus, at home this species often pleases with its flowering.
Echinocactus parryi
A miniature species, the height of which even in nature reaches only 30 cm. Echinocactus parryi has 13 to 15 ribs. Over time, its spherical shoots begin to acquire the shape of a cylinder. The stem of this cactus is blue-gray. The peculiarity of the species is not only in its size, but also in the length of the spines. It can reach 10 cm. Young needles are painted in a bright pinkish-brown color, but then they brighten. Domestic specimens do not perceive waterlogging of the soil poorly, so they should be protected from the development of rot.
Echinocactus horizontal (Echinocactus horizonthalonius)
The peculiarity of this species is reflected in its name. The stems of Echinocactus horizonthalonius do not stretch upward as they grow, but acquire a flattened shape. They have from 10 to 13 ribs with a spiral arrangement. Each areola contains up to 6 curved spines. They are reddish in color, gradually changing to amber. The flowers are purple-red.
Echinocactus texensis
A small, multi-ribbed species up to 20 cm high with a stem width of about 30 cm. Echinocactus texensis lives in grass. The color of the stem can vary from green to gray-green. The needles are colored brownish, gray, or pink, with the radial spines bent downward. The flowers have a silvery pink color and a reddish throat and appear on bushes 10 cm or more wide.
Echinocactus polycephalus (Echinocactus polycephalus)
At home, this type of echinocactus grows up to 70 cm. Echinocactus polycephalus has colored spines painted in red-brown, pink or yellow. The number of ribs ranges from 15 to 20 pieces.