Tuberous begonia

Tuberous begonia (Begonia Tuberhybrida Group) is a hybrid derived from different species of this flower. It is distinguished by the presence of a tuberous rhizome and a particularly lush flowering. The plant belongs to the Begonia family, which includes about a thousand different species. Even begonias themselves are very diverse: thanks to breeders, there are already over 12 thousand varieties of them.

All varieties of begonias are conventionally divided into three groups: with decorative leaves, with beautiful flowers and bushy. The most extensively represented is the second group of begonias - flowering. In their ranks there are even plants that can bloom even in winter and autumn or all year round. The varieties differ in the shape and degree of doubleness of the flowers, their color, size and quantity. Some large-flowered and terry begonias are easily mistaken for roses.

Tuberous begonias are also divided into groups. There are species with large, medium and small flowers. The latter can be either double or simple.

Planting tuberous begonia at home

Tuber acquisition

As a rule, for growing begonias, flower growers acquire a full-fledged tuber or part of it. The best time to buy is from January to early March. Before purchasing planting material, it is necessary to assess its quality. A healthy adult tuber suitable for planting is at least 3 cm in diameter. Young specimens about 6 cm wide are considered optimal. To the touch, the tuber should be dense, not wrinkled and not have any damage or spots. In February-March, pronounced buds should already be visible on it - growth points, but tubers with large sprouts are not recommended to be purchased.

If the tuber was purchased long before planting, you can store it in a cool place in a bag with slightly damp sawdust.

Before planting, it is necessary to determine the upper and lower parts of the tuber: they can be difficult to distinguish. The top is usually flatter and has bumps and irregularities - this is how the growth points of begonias look. The lower part is most often convex and smoother. A tuber that is too large can be divided into parts before planting to get more plants. But each such division must have at least three growth points.

Soil selection

Fertile and loose neutral soil is suitable for planting tuberous begonias. When self-cooking, they take sand, peat and leafy soil for it in proportions of 1: 1: 3. You can add organic fertilizer to it in advance: rotted mullein.

Tubers begin to be planted in pots in early spring. For this, medium-sized containers are suitable, whose height is approximately equal to the width. The volume is calculated based on the size of the tuber. About 3 cm should remain from it to the edges of the pot.

If begonia is grown in the open field, it is transferred to the garden in May or June - after stable warm weather is established. To get flowers as early as possible, such tubers are planted in spring for seedlings and gradually hardened before planting. The prepared seedlings are distributed in flower beds at a distance of at least 30 cm from each other. For planting, you should choose a sufficiently sunny, but protected corner. In the fall, before the onset of severe cold weather, the tubers are dug up and transferred to storage in a dark, cool place.

Planting begonia tuber

The tuber, ready for planting, is cleaned of old dried roots. You can pre-soak it in a fungicide or a pale solution of potassium permanganate for about half an hour. This allows you to restore the water balance of the tuber and at the same time disinfect it.

The pot is filled by a third with drainage, the soil is poured on top and a small hole is made in it. A tuber is placed in it and lightly sprinkled with earth so that the growth points remain open. When the begonia grows and forms sprouts at least 4 cm tall, you can add some soil to the pot to close the tuber completely.

When germinating in young tubers up to 5 cm in size, it is recommended to leave no more than 3 sprouts. If the tuber is older and larger, its sprouts need not be cut off.

Tuberous begonia care at home

Lighting

For begonias, bright light is preferable, but it must be made diffused. Direct rays can burn leaves on the leaves. Varieties that bloom in winter need to be provided with adequate lighting, especially during bud formation and flowering. In dense shade, the bushes bloom much worse.

Temperature

Begonias not going to rest should be kept at a temperature of 13-21 degrees. Varieties that rest in winter are kept in a cool, but not cold room during the dormant period.

Watering mode

Begonias need regular watering throughout the growing season, but especially during flowering. It is impossible to pour the tuber, but it is not recommended to allow the soil coma to dry out. Both will have a bad effect on the health of the flower. When watering, you need to try so that water does not fall on the top of the tuber.

Only plants that enter a dormant period in winter need to change the watering regime. After the foliage of such a begonia begins to turn yellow, the moisture level is gradually reduced.

Humidity level

Begonias are not demanding to the level of air humidity, however, if possible, it is better to provide a fairly high humidity, since very dry air can harm the plant.

Top dressing

Before flowering, when the buds are tied on the bush, you can feed it with a weak dose of a suitable fertilizer for flowering. Starting from the appearance of the first buds and throughout the entire flowering period, the plant is fertilized with a non-concentrated solution of mineral fertilizer.

Transfer

If an overgrown begonia needs to be transplanted, in the spring it is moved to a suitable new container. It is filled with a good drainage layer. Charcoal can be poured on top of it, this will create an additional layer that protects the plant from the development of rot. Soil is poured over it. As in the case of a normal planting, the tuber of the plant should not be too deeply buried or covered with earth.

Flowering period

Large-flowered tuberous varieties require special care during the flowering period. If such a plant is grown at home, small "female" flowers that grow next to large ones are removed from it. In addition, the bush must be cleaned of wilted flowers. Small-flowered specimens only need sanitary cleaning.

Tuberous begonia propagation methods

Tuberous begonias can reproduce in several ways. In addition to dividing a large tuber, you can grow a new specimen from a cuttings. Winter-flowering varieties allow propagation by leaf cuttings or the upper part of the stem.Some varieties can be grown from seed, but the retention of maternal traits is not guaranteed.

Seeds are sown superficially at the very end of January. It takes about a month for their germination. By the end of summer, the seedlings begin to bloom. Regardless of the varietal characteristics, in the first year such a plant does not go to rest, so it should not be removed for wintering. They are kept in a cool, bright place, but watered less often. Subject to the right conditions, in 3-4 years a large flowering bush will turn out from such a begonia.

For cuttings, tubers begin to wake up in January. When the shoots grow up to 10 cm, they are gently broken off, slightly dried and powdered with charcoal. Sections on the tuber itself must also be treated with a disinfectant. Ready cuttings are planted in light soil. They will take root within a month, but by winter they will not have time to form a tuber. You can cut the cuttings in the fall, choosing the strongest shoots. In both cases, such seedlings do not leave for wintering.

Diseases and pests

At the first signs of illness, the home flower should be isolated so as not to infect neighboring bushes. The plant is taken to a ventilated room and already there they carry out all the necessary treatments with fungicides or insecticides.

Garden begonias can be harmed by aphids, spider mites, or powdery mildew.

The main difficulties of growing

Along with diseases caused by pests or infections, improper care can be the cause of begonia problems.

• Falling leaves may be due to lack of lighting. In this case, the stems of the plant will be very thin, and there will be little foliage on them. From the heat, begonia foliage can dry out and curl up. Overflow can lead to putrefactive processes and wilting of the plant.
• Yellow foliage can also be caused by a lack of light. The second possible reason is underfilling or overflowing.
• Falling buds - a sign of excess moisture or dry air.
• The leaves have brown tips due to excessively dry air in the room.
• Pale leaves in combination with signs of rot - a consequence of excessive watering.