Aquilegia

The aquilegia plant (Aquilegia) is a perennial from the Buttercup family. The genus includes from 60 to 120 different herbaceous species that live mainly in mountainous areas throughout the Northern Hemisphere.

The flower is also known as the catchment. This is due to one of the versions of the translation of its Latin name. According to another, the word "aquilegia" comes from "aquila" - "eagle" - the shape of spurs of many species resembles a silhouette of a bird. Due to this, the flower is also known as the eagle. In European countries and in America, this plant is called columbine - "dove". In Germany, unusual aquilegia flowers were compared to the shoes of mythical elves.

Gardeners grow about 35 types of aquilegia. This flower has been cultivated for a very long time. Compared to pigeons, medieval artists depicted aquilegia in their canvases as a symbol of the Holy Spirit. It was this flower that Shakespeare's Ophelia presented to Laertes, among other herbs.

Description of aquilegia

Aquilegia have a two-year formation cycle. In the first year of cultivation, the rosette itself and renewal points are formed, allowing the plant to recover after wintering. Old foliage dies off by spring, after which fresh leaf blades are formed, and a leafy peduncle stem appears from the center of the rosette. The rosette contains leaves cut into 3 parts on long petioles, while the stem leaf plates are sessile.

The drooping aquilegia flowers are located one by one. In most species, they have characteristic spurs - outgrowths on the petals (or sepals) that store nectar reserves. Typically, European species have shorter and curved spurs, American ones longer, and spurs are often absent in East Asian aquilegia. Bees prefer to pollinate plants with short spurs. Although the long-spur species contain more nectar, it is considered inaccessible to pollinators as long as the base of the spur is not bitten.

The color of the flowers of the plant and their size can be very diverse. Coloring includes tones of violet, blue, white, yellow, pink and crimson. Typically, European plants are more delicate or darker, and American plants are brighter - red or yellow in color. There are both monochromatic flowers and combinations of 2 or more flowers. After flowering, a multileaf fruit is formed, in which small black shiny seeds ripen. They are considered poisonous, and their germination capacity lasts no more than 3 years, reaching a maximum only in the first year.Seedlings bloom no earlier than in the second year of development, and they begin to be considered adults only from the 3rd year.

Aquilegia flowers can be used for cutting, but they do not last as long in the water. Usually, peduncles are used for this, on which at least a couple of flowers have blossomed. In this case, aquilegia is also used to create dry bouquets. Some low-growing varieties of aquilegia ("Bidermeer", "Winky") are used for pot cultivation.

Brief rules for growing aquilegia

The table shows brief rules for growing aquilegia outdoors.

Growing aquilegia from seeds

Aquilegia seeds can be sown in soil or containers immediately after harvest. The next spring, the seedlings are transferred to a permanent place. For spring sowing, the seeds should be kept cool - for example, in the refrigerator, mixed with the ground. Such measures will contribute to the preservation of germination.

In March, the seeds are removed, cleaned and sown in containers with light soil. It can include humus and sand, as well as leafy soil. Seeds are spread on the surface of a wet substrate, sprinkled with a thin layer of sifted earth and placed in a dark place, covered with burlap or a sheet of paper. It is recommended to keep crops in moderate coolness: about 16-18 degrees. If the substrate dries up, lightly spray it with a spray bottle.

Aquilegia seedlings should appear in a couple of weeks. When the sprouts have two full-fledged leaves, they dive into the nutritious loamy soil. This usually happens closer to the beginning of May. Possible picking directly to the garden. The main thing in this procedure is to act carefully (the flower does not tolerate a transplant), and also to position the root of the plant being moved evenly, without bending it.

Planting aquilegia in open ground

What time to plant

Aquilegia seedlings are transferred to the ground by June. Young seedlings will need shading from the bright direct sun. They can be moved to their final place closer to the end of summer or next spring. For mature plants, you can choose both sunny and shady areas. Aquilegia is considered a shade-tolerant plant, and partial shade is required for the greatest decorative effect. In such conditions, the size of the flowers will become larger and the flowering will last longer. But in a shady place, the growth of bushes may slow down, and the number of flowers may decrease. With such a planting, the risk of developing diseases may also increase.

Landing rules

Aquilegia is not very demanding on the soil, but it grows better on light and moist soil containing a lot of humus. Before planting, aquilegia can be added to the ground with humus or compost - up to 1 bucket per 1 cubic meter. Dig up the soil with 1 shovel bayonet. The distance between the bushes can be from 25 to 40 cm, depending on the size of the variety. For 1 sq. m usually fits up to 12 bushes.

Aquilegia reproduces successfully by self-sowing, sometimes turning into a weed, but this feature allows plants to self-renew. As they grow, aquilegia bushes begin to lose their decorative effect - this usually happens 5 or 6 years after planting. The bushes begin to gradually break up into several smaller bushes, which bloom much weaker. The old plants are then dug up, and the young growth is left.

Aquilegia care

Watering

Aquilegia care is easy. The plant has a root system that goes deep enough, so it will calmly survive a slight drought. But in general, the bushes are considered moisture-loving, so it is recommended to water them as needed, especially during periods of long dry weather. After precipitation or watering, the soil next to the aquilegia is loosened, and also cleared of weeds. This will help keep moisture in the ground. Due to the gradual exposure of the roots, a little earth should be added to the aquilegia beds every year.

Top dressing

Top dressing of aquilegia is carried out 1-2 times per season. The first is carried out at the very beginning of the growing season, in the spring. For 1 sq. m of the area, a bucket of non-concentrated mullein solution is introduced, as well as mineral additives - potassium salt (15 g), superphosphate (50 g) and saltpeter (25 g). In June, you can add phosphorus or potassium under the bushes. Sometimes in August, plants are again watered with potash compounds as top dressing before the upcoming winter.

Garter

Tall flower varieties often need a garter. Without support, peduncles can break or lie on the ground after heavy rainfall.

Forcing aquilegia

Aquilegia can start flowering much earlier if forcing. To do this, at the beginning of autumn, you need to dig out the root of the plant from the ground and plant it in a deep container or ordinary flower container. Before the onset of severe winter frosts, all boxes with plants must be kept in a dark and warm room, and for the winter they must be placed in a cellar or basement and left there until the end of January. To start the growth and formation of flower stems in February, planting containers must be placed in a bright and warm room with an average temperature of about 15 degrees Celsius. In such conditions and subject to the basic rules of care, aquilegia will give its flowering already in the first days of April.

Aquilegia after flowering

The flowering of aquilegia usually ends in the first half of summer. When this happens, the stems with peduncles can be cut to the level of the rosette. This will allow the bushes to look more neat and also avoid unwanted crossbreeding of different varieties. Healthy, removed shoots are used for compost, and diseased ones are destroyed. If you plan to collect seeds from the bushes, you need to keep the required number of peduncles until the period of their ripening. To avoid cross-pollination, you can pollinate the flowers yourself with a soft brush. To prevent ripened seeds from spilling to the ground, a thin cloth bag is put on each box. Winter sowing of the collected material can be carried out in the first half of autumn.

If necessary, after the end of flowering, you can divide the bushes.

Wintering

Young aquilegia bushes do not need special preparation for winter. They winter well under a layer of snow. But adult plants over 4 years old begin to bare roots over time. A similar process can lead to freezing of the plant. After removing the peduncles, the area near the bush should be covered with a mixture of humus with peat compost. Under such a shelter, the roots will not be afraid of autumn frosts and the coming winter, in addition, it will serve as a good feeding.

Aquilegia breeding methods

Aquilegia can be propagated both by seeds and by vegetative methods: cuttings and division. Seed reproduction is easy, but the maternal traits may not be preserved due to the cross-pollination of different plants. Some gardeners, on the other hand, appreciate this feature for the possibility of obtaining new hybrids of various colors.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

The division of aquilegia is rarely carried out. This is due to the fact that the bushes are difficult to tolerate transplanting due to the fact that their roots lie deep, and it is difficult to remove them from the soil without damaging them. Usually, only very rare flower forms or old, already decaying plants are propagated by division. For this, bushes 3-5 years old are suitable.In the first half of spring or at the end of summer, they are removed from the ground, trying not to damage even small roots, then they are soaked in water with an earthen ball, and the aboveground part is cut to a height of about 7 cm, leaving only 2-3 fresh leaves. Then the taproot must be divided in half lengthwise so that each part has about 3 renewal points and several medium-sized roots. A sharp and clean instrument is used for the procedure. The sections are treated with crushed coal, and then the cuttings are planted in boxes or holes with light and nutritious soil. Such seedlings take root for a very long time and usually get sick. Top dressing is not carried out until the divisions are finally rooted.

Cuttings

Cutting aquilegia will also preserve varietal characteristics, but it is much easier. In the spring, before the start of active growth, a young stem with not fully opened leaves and a "heel" is cut from the bush. The cut site is treated with a root formation stimulator, and then the cutting is planted in a greenhouse or directly into the ground, covered with a cap from a transparent bottle. The planting site should be semi-shady, and it is recommended to use sand or other light soil as a substrate. Water the cutting should be done without removing the bottle. Gradually airing the seedling begins only 10 days after planting. The rooting process takes about a month, after which you can transplant the seedling to the final place

Pests and diseases

Powdery mildew, rust, and gray rot can affect Aquilegia. The latter disease is considered practically incurable, therefore, the affected leaf blades must be removed faster. Treatment with a sulfur-containing agent or a mixture of soap solution and copper sulfate will help against rust. Powdery mildew on plantings appears in the form of a light bloom. Affected foliage begins to turn brown and then curl and dry out. Green soap mixed with a solution of colloidal sulfur or any other sulfur-containing preparation will help against such a disease. Treatments should be carried out three times with an interval of 7 or 10 days.

Among the pests that can appear on the bushes are aphids and spider mites, as well as nematodes and scoops. Yarrow paste or special insecticides help from aphids and ticks. Nematodes are considered the most dangerous pests; a way to combat them has not yet been found. The affected plants will have to be dug up and destroyed, and it is recommended to fill the place where they were located with plantings resistant to nematodes. Among them are garlic and onions, as well as cereals.

Types and varieties of aquilegia with photos and names

Of the many natural types of aquilegia in horticulture, only a part of them is grown. Among the most popular types for garden decoration:

Alpine aquilegia (Aquilegia alpina)

The species forms low bushes up to 30 cm in size, but on fertile soil they can grow much higher. Aquilegia alpina has flowers up to 8 cm in diameter, colored in tones of blue and purple. The spurs are slightly curved. Flowers appear at the very end of June or early July.

Fan-shaped aquilegia (Aquilegia flabellata)

This species is also called Akita. Aquilegia flabellata reaches 60 cm in height. Its basal rosette is trifoliate, located on long petioles. The flowers are up to 6 cm in diameter and are decorated with long, curved spurs. Each peduncle contains up to five flowers of bluish-lilac color with a wide white border on the central petals. Such bushes are highly frost-resistant and reproduce well by self-seeding.

Common aquilegia (Aquilegia vulgaris)

The homeland of this species is Europe. The height of the bushes varies and can be 40-80 cm. Aquilegia vulgaris forms purple or blue flowers up to 5 cm wide. On the basis of this plant, many decorative varieties with flowers of different colors were obtained. Their appearance can vary significantly: there are varieties with or without spurs, as well as with simple or double flowers.This aquilegia is considered one of the most frost-resistant and tolerates temperatures as low as -35 degrees.

Aquilegia hybrid (Aquilegia hybrida)

It is these plants that can most often be found in flower beds. Most of the hybrid varieties of this group were obtained by crossing the common aquilegia with its American relatives. Aquilegia hybrida has larger (up to 9 cm) flowers, with or without spurs, which can be either simple or double. The color of the flowers can be very diverse. The sizes of bushes in various varieties of this group are from 50 cm to 1 m. Some plants may have variegated foliage.

Aquilegia chrysantha

North American species with large long-spine flowers of bright yellow color. Unlike most other species, Aquilegia chrysantha flowers do not wilt. This species is not yet very common in gardening, but interest in it is gradually starting to grow.

Aquilegia canadensis (Aquilegia canadensis)

Another North American species. Aquilegia canadensis has red-yellow flowers with straight spurs. Best of all, such a plant feels in a shady place on wet soil.

Dark aquilegia (Aquilegia atrata)

The height of this type of bushes is 30-80 cm. Aquilegia atrata comes from European countries. It has foliage with a bluish tint and flowers of deep purple color. Their diameter is small: about 3-4 cm. The flowers are distinguished by short spurs with a bend, as well as stamens protruding under the corolla. Flowering begins at the very end of May. The species is often used for cutting, and breeders use it to produce new dark-flowered varieties. Best of all, the bushes develop in a semi-shady corner of the garden.

Olympic Aquilegia (Aquilegia olympica)

This species is found in the countries of Asia Minor, as well as in the Caucasus. Aquilegia olympica has pubescent stems and large (up to 10 cm) bluish flowers with large spurs. They appear from mid-May to the second half of June. The size of the bushes is about 30-60 cm.

Aquilegia skinneri

North American aquilegia with moderate frost resistance (up to -12 degrees). Aquilegia skinneri flowers have reddish-yellow petals, and their spurs are straight.

Along with the listed species, the following aquilegia are also quite common in the gardens:

• Bertoloni - alpine species up to 15 cm high with large blue flowers and grayish-green foliage.
• Blue - flowers combine white and pale lilac or blue tones. This plant is considered the official symbol of the state of Colorado.
• Bicolor - the height of the bushes reaches 15 cm, the flowers have a lilac-blue corolla and a creamy cup.
• Glandular - the flowers are blue, sometimes with a light border. Of all the wild-growing aquilegia, this species is considered one of the most decorative.
• Green-flowered - The flowers are greenish-yellow in color, there is a variety with brown flowers.
• Small-flowered - East Asian species. Up to 25 small bluish-purple flowers appear on leafless peduncles.
• Acupressure - flower color - white or purple.
• Siberian - flowers are painted in bluish-lilac, less often white, while the edges of the petals can be yellow. Spurs are thin.
• Ekalkarat - oriental spurless species with cherry flowers and low (up to 20 cm) bushes.