Actinidia

The plant actinidia (Actinidia) is a representative of the family of the same name. This genus includes lianas with ligneous shoots that grow in sparse forests in the Far East (it is believed that representatives of this genus have survived in those parts from distant times when the climate there was still subtropical), as well as in many countries of southeast Asia ... According to various classifications, about 70 species are referred to actinidia, among which are the gourmet actinidia and the Chinese actinidia, which give everyone the well-known fruits of kiwi. The name of the plant comes from the word "ray" and is associated with the shape of its ovaries.

The amazing vine came to European countries only in the middle of the 20th century. Today, various types of actinidia can be grown in temperate climates. Compared to kiwi, the fruits of such vines are smaller and fluffy, but may contain even more valuable substances. The popularity of actinidia is constantly growing, and liana is increasingly found in gardens along with other fruit and berry crops. So the type of kolomikt attracts gardeners with its frost resistance. Another record holder is a kind of argut, the height of the shoots of which reaches 30 m.

Description of actinidia

Actinidia is a bushy perennial liana that sheds foliage for the winter. It has leathery (less often thin) foliage with denticles along the edges, which can sometimes have a spectacular variegated color that changes throughout the summer. For normal development, the vine needs a support on which its shoots will hold. Flowers are formed on the stems of the current season, located in the leaf axils of 1-3 pieces. Interestingly, on actinidia, only part of the kidneys open at a time, providing "insurance" in case of recurrent frosts. The most common corolla color is white, although there are species with golden yellow or orange flowers. In some species, flowers can exude a pleasant sweet-jasmine aroma. Flowering lasts about 10 days and most often occurs in the summer months.

After the end of flowering, fruit-berries are tied on female plants, which have a yellow-green or light orange color. They are rich in useful substances (especially ascorbic acid), and in some species they can be used for food. Various jams and drinks are prepared from actinidia berries, dried or consumed fresh. Dried actinidia resembles a very large raisin.

Differences between female actinidia and male

Actinidia is dioecious, and its male specimens differ from the female ones.Self-pollinated varieties exist, but they are not so common and do not always give the desired yield. Determining the sex of a plant is probably only possible during flowering. Male flowers bloom a couple of days earlier, do not have a pistil, but they have more stamens. In female flowers, the stamens located around the pistil are sterile or completely absent. They are pollinated only by the pollen of male specimens, carried by insects or by the wind, therefore, in order to obtain a crop in the garden, it is necessary to have at least a couple of different vines. The most optimal ratio is the presence of 2 male bushes for 8-10 female ones. At the same time, different types of actinidia cannot be pollinated. The exceptions are related lianas: purple, arguta and Giraldi. Sometimes cuttings from the male are grafted onto female plants.

To be sure to purchase a plant of the required sex, you should contact nurseries and trusted points of sale. Seedlings of actinidia can have any sex, which is determined only with the first flowering, therefore, buying rooted cuttings is considered more reliable. Such seedlings can be distinguished by the presence of a mini-hemp (the cutting itself without a top), from which lateral shoots develop. The seedling will have a developed main shoot.

Brief rules for growing actinidia

The table shows brief rules for growing actinidia in the open field.

Planting actinidia in open ground

The best time and place to land

Actinidia is planted in the ground in autumn or spring. Usually, purchased seedlings 2-3 years old (up to 70 cm high) with a closed root system are used for this - such bushes will take root faster. In order not to transplant an overgrown liana, they immediately try to find a permanent place for it. With proper care, actinidia can grow and produce crops for over 30-40 years.

Liana prefers semi-shady places and does not like scorching rays, but without enough sunlight, its fruits will not be able to ripen. For planting, a warm corner, illuminated only until lunchtime, is best suited. Attention should also be paid to the neighborhood: actinidia does not grow well near apple trees and other large trees - the vine will conflict with them for nutrients. But it can be planted next to currant bushes and other garden berries. But it is not worth using young trees as a direct support for the vines - the growing actinidia will quickly begin to squeeze such a planting. It is also not worth planting nearby crops that need deep loosening of the soil.

To plant actinidia, you need moist, acidic or neutral soil with a good drainage layer. Heavy clay or alkaline actinidia soil will not work. Elevated places of the garden or slopes are preferable: there the moisture will certainly not stagnate in the soil. If the groundwater level in the area is too high, the seedling can be planted on a hill, forming a hill of the required size for it.

Actinidia is a vine, so it needs good support, otherwise the shoots of the bush will sink to the ground and lose their neat appearance. Its role can be played by a fence or a specially designed trellis. It will allow you to give the plant the desired shape, which will facilitate the collection of fruits located closer to the top of the vine. If actinidia grows near the house, you will have to remove the fruits from the roof or attic.

Spring planting

If spring was chosen for planting actinidia, the procedure begins in early March, before the start of active sap flow. When planting several plants between the bushes, you need to maintain a certain distance. It depends on the size of the variety: for a large type of argut between the vines, they can stand up to 2 m, for a type of kolomikta - about a meter. If actinidia is grown for decorative purposes for vertical gardening, the bushes are placed 70 cm apart, and organic matter is introduced into the holes. More frequent planting will lead to intertwining of adjacent plants' stems and difficulty in caring for them. With a mass planting, 3-4 m are left in the aisles, placing the rows from north to south. In this case, snow and moisture linger on the bushes longer, and in summer, more uniform illumination and shading of the roots are created.

Before planting, the seedlings will need preparation. Dry or broken shoots and roots are removed from them, and the roots are immersed in a mash made of clay mixed with fertile soil.

The landing pit is prepared in advance - about a couple of weeks before the day of disembarkation. Its dimensions should be approximately 50x50 cm at the same depth, but first of all, one should proceed from the size of the roots of the seedling with an increase in the drainage layer. Pebbles, brick debris or other suitable stones must be laid at the bottom of the pit. The main thing is to avoid materials containing lime, for example, crushed limestone. Then the planting hole is filled with nutritious soil, where peat, compost or humus was introduced. Additionally, superphosphate (250 g), potassium sulfate (35 g) or wood ash, as well as ammonium nitrate (120 g) are added to the mixture. The exception is additives that include chlorine - this element is capable of destroying seedlings.

A couple of weeks, immediately before planting, when the soil in the hole settles a little, a small hill is poured in it from ordinary garden soil - such measures will avoid burning the roots with fertilizers. The seedling, together with the soil clod, is placed on top. To make the plant easier to pull out of the portable container, it is watered abundantly. After installation in the pit, the root collar of the seedling should be flush with the ground. The voids are filled with earth, as it should be compacted. After planting, the seedling is well watered, spending about 25 liters of water per bush. The near-trunk area is mulched with a layer of compost about 4-5 cm thick. A couple of weeks before complete rooting, the vine is shaded using a paper or fabric shelter from the sun. Do not prune after planting.

Planting in autumn

In autumn, planting actinidia is carried out no later than 3 weeks before the onset of frost. For such a planting, only young plants aged 2-3 years are suitable, other bushes will not have time to take root well before the onset of cold weather. Otherwise, the procedure is carried out in the same way as in the spring.

Support selection

Actinidia do not form aerial roots, therefore they do not pose a threat to buildings. Knowing that the vine will not cling to cracks in the walls or fence, it is safely planted next to the garden structures. The main thing is to ensure that drops from the roofs do not harm the bushes. You can decorate gazebos or other decorative structures with actinidia: arches, pergolas.

Without support, the creeper shoots will begin to get confused. This greatly complicates the care procedures and can adversely affect the abundance of fruiting. Supports can be made of metal, wood or concrete. Another way is to use wire. It is stretched between two strong posts of average height in 3-4 rows, like on a grape trellis.So the vine will develop horizontally. As the shoots develop, they are tied to the guides.

For regions with frosty winters, it is recommended to use removable trellises held on pipes dug into the ground. Before the start of frost, the structure is dismantled, laying the trellises on the ground along with the vines holding on to it. For the winter, the plant is well covered, and in the spring it is returned to its original place.

Actinidia care

During the growth period, actinidia is periodically watered, weeded and fed, and also pruned. It is necessary to monitor and timely prevent the spread of diseases or harmful insects. Despite the external differences between the species of actinidia, the care for them will be the same.

Watering

In hot and dry weather, it is recommended to spray the vine in the morning or evening, carrying out the sprinkling procedure. During the day, this procedure is not carried out in order to avoid burns on the foliage. It is worth taking a break during flowering as well - water can have a bad effect on the pollination process.

Actinidia does not tolerate long dry periods and begins to shed leaves. Fresh shoots appearing after their fall will not have time to develop enough before frost and may freeze. This will be prevented by abundant weekly watering (about 2-3 buckets of water per plant, based on its size). After watering, loosening is carried out to a shallow depth (the roots of actinidia lie shallow), and they also weed the root area and mulch the soil with sawdust or chips.

Top dressing

Fertilization will contribute to the rapid development, increased frost resistance and abundant fruiting of actinidia. For full development, actinidia can be fed only twice: in early April and after flowering. Additional fertilizers are applied on poor soils. It is not recommended to use fresh manure, but you can fertilize the bushes with leaf humus and compost (1 bucket per 1 square meter) or use a solution of mullein or chicken manure.

Mineral additives can be added together with organic matter. For example, at the beginning of spring, potash-phosphorus (about 20 g) and nitrogen (35 g) compositions are added to 1 square meter of soil. The next feeding is carried out with the formation of ovaries, using 10-12 g of potassium-phosphorus and about 15-20 g of nitrogen supplements. After harvesting the fruits, in mid-autumn, actinidia is fed again, using only potassium-phosphorus formulations (20 g each). You can use granular fertilizers, they are dug into the ground to a depth of about 10-12 cm, and then the bushes are watered abundantly.

Pruning

Proper care of actinidia stimulates the growth of its shoots, which is why the crown of the vine gradually begins to thicken. If you do not control the growth process of the bush, it will become less frost-resistant, and also begin to bear less fruit. Starting from 3-4 years of development, the vine should be formed. It is important to remember that no pruning is done in early spring and autumn. During this period, actinidia has a particularly strong sap flow, so injuries from pruning can lead to the death of the bushes. Shoots frozen over the winter are removed only after the foliage has bloomed, and thickening branches are removed after harvesting, in the fall, or very early spring before the buds begin to open. Long stems can be cut in half if necessary. The remaining shoots are strengthened on the trellis in the required direction. Some gardeners do partial pruning in the summer.

In order for the wood to mature better by winter, it is recommended to pinch the ends of the branches - this will slow down the development of shoots. If actinidia grows on a horizontal trellis, you can form a two-arm cordon from its branches. In this case, 2 stems are selected on the plant, located on the same line, and directed in opposite directions horizontally. The rest of the stems at this level are removed. By the next year, the abandoned branches form fresh growth of the second order, which will bear fruit. These shoots are strengthened on a vertical support.

It is necessary to carry out anti-aging pruning in plants older than 8-10 years.In this case, the skeletal branches are cut, leaving only a stump up to 40 cm in height.

Harvesting

Actinidia begins to bloom and bear fruit for about 3-4 years of cultivation, but only vines from 7 years and older bring a full harvest. With proper care, the plant is capable of producing crops for 40 years or more, sometimes yielding up to 60 kg of fruit per season from 1 bush. On average, the yield is up to 20 kg. Actinidia fruits ripen unevenly. In a number of varieties, they stay on the branches for a long time even after ripening, but in other plants, ripe fruits begin to fall off, so they are harvested 1-2 weeks before this stage. Berries ripen well even with premature harvesting, and can only be transported in an unripe form. On average, the collection takes place from the second half of August to mid or late September. When all the fruits from the branches are removed, the liana is fed with potassium-phosphorus compounds or wood ash - such a measure will contribute to successful wintering.

Preparing for winter

Adult actinidia bushes are pruned at the end of September, removing from half to a third of the length of their stems. Branches thickening the bush are also subject to pruning. Such vines will not need shelter.

Young actinidia, growing in the garden for no more than 2-3 years, are removed from the supports in the fall and covered with foliage, spruce branches or a layer of peat. The thickness of such a shelter should be from 20 cm. A poison is preliminarily laid down, which will prevent the appearance of rodents. The mice do not harm actinidia itself, but they arrange nests in its shoots. The covering layer is removed from young vines in April.

Reproduction of actinidia

Actinidia can be propagated by seeds and vegetative methods. In the first case, the transfer of varietal characteristics is not guaranteed; moreover, the seedling can be of any sex. But such vines are considered more resistant, although they begin to bear fruit only in the 7th year of cultivation.

The bushes obtained from cuttings or layering inherit the sex and all the characteristics of the variety, and the fruits appear on them in the 3-4th year of cultivation, therefore this propagation method is considered more popular.

Reproduction by arc layers

The method of forming layering attracts with its simplicity. In the spring, when the foliage of the actinidia finally blooms, a large and long stem is found on it, bent to the ground and fixed. At the point of contact with the soil, it is sprinkled with earth to a depth of 10-15 cm. The resulting mound is watered and mulched with a layer of humus or sawdust. In this case, the crown of the shoot should remain above the ground.

The cuttings are systematically watered and protected from weeds, and the crown and fresh growth are regularly sprayed. By the fall, such a plant should form its own roots, after which it can be transplanted to the chosen place. If desired, a transplant can be carried out next spring, separating a new bush after the start of foliage blooming. If the liana obtained from the cut looks too frail, you can leave it in its old place for another year. This is most often observed in more northern regions.

Cuttings

For the propagation of actinidia, green cuttings are also used. This method allows you to get many plants at once. Cuttings are harvested at the beginning of summer, when fruits develop on the liana, and the stems begin to grow stiff. In the morning, strong annual shoots from half a meter to a meter long are cut from the bush. To prevent them from fading, the lower cut is immediately immersed in water. Cuttings are cut from these shoots 10-15 cm long and not less than a pencil thick. Each must have a pair of internodes and 3 buds. The upper cut is made 4-5 cm above the nearest kidney in a straight line, and the lower cut is made at an angle under the lower kidney. The upper leaves are shortened by 2 times to reduce evaporation, and the rest are carefully cut off along with the petiole.

After this preparation, the cuttings are planted in a previously prepared bed. For planting, use a pre-watered land with the addition of humus and sand (2: 2: 1). Mineral fertilizers (100 g per 1 sq. M), which do not contain chlorine, are also applied to the ground.Cuttings are placed in the soil at an angle, deepening them to the middle bud and keeping 5 cm between seedlings and 10 cm between rows. The land near the plantings is tamped and watered. Arcs are placed over the cuticle and covered with white breathing agrofibre. Between the tops of the seedlings and the shelter, at least 15 cm should remain. All summer, the plants are watered up to 3 times a week (in the heat - daily). In rainy or cloudy weather, the shelter can be removed. Cuttings spend winter under a layer of dry foliage. In the spring, the rooted seedlings are dug up and transferred to a permanent place of cultivation, or they are grown in the old place for another year.

Propagation by woody cuttings

Wood cuttings are harvested at the end of autumn. The segments are tied in bundles and vertically installed in a box of sand. In this form, the planting material is kept until spring at a temperature of 1-5 degrees. You can cut the cuttings at the very end of winter, before the sap flow begins. Before planting, they are kept in sand or wet moss, and immediately before the procedure, the slices are treated with a rooting stimulator. The planting is carried out in a greenhouse or greenhouse, watering the seedlings every couple of days. Otherwise, care is no different from rooting green cuttings.

You can also get new bushes from combined cuttings. At the very beginning of summer, a young shoot is cut from the bush along with the "heel" - part of the branch of the last year. Such segments are planted in a garden bed or in a greenhouse, protecting them from the scorching sun and watering them regularly. Such cuttings take root quickly, and they are transplanted to a permanent place in the next season.

Growing from seeds

Due to the unpredictability of the result and the long waiting time for fruits, seed reproduction is often used for the sake of experiment. To collect seeds, ripe and undamaged fruits are selected. They are kept for another week for full ripening, until they become soft and transparent on the cut. Then they are laid out in a glass, gently kneaded and filled with water. Viable seeds should remain at the bottom. After draining the water, such seeds are transferred to paper and dried in a dark place, and then put into a paper bag. You should not hesitate with sowing - seed germination lasts no more than a year.

Seeds can be sown directly into open ground or prepared for spring sowing. In the first case, sowing is carried out in mid-October, sowing seeds in grooves on a bed, previously fertilized with leaf humus. Leave 10-15 cm between rows. Seeds should not be buried too deeply. Seedlings should appear early next summer. Caring for them will involve careful and regular weeding. If necessary, the seedlings are thinned out, leaving at least 10 cm between the bushes. The sprouts should be shaded from the sun. Watering is carried out at least 2 times a week. In the 3rd year of growing, the plants can be transferred to a permanent place.

In the second case, the seeds begin to prepare for sowing at the beginning of December. They are laid out in a small container with water so that the seeds are flooded by about 2 cm. They are kept in this form for up to 4 days, periodically changing the water. Then the seeds are put in a nylon bag (you can use a sock or stocking) and tidied up in a box with wet sand. It should be kept warm (about 18-20 degrees). Once a week, the bag is removed from the airing box for about a few minutes, washed under water and returned to the sand, preventing the seeds from drying out. In January, the box is wrapped in a cloth and buried in a large snowdrift for 8 weeks. If there is not enough snow outside, or there is no opportunity to transfer the seeds to a snowdrift, the box is kept in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator. After the prescribed period of stratification, the box is moved to moderate coolness (about 10-12 degrees). A sharp transfer to heat after cold storage can lead to immersion of seeds in a state of dormancy. After the refrigerator or snow drift, seeds continue to be removed from the ventilation box and washed weekly.When they begin to peck, they are sown in a container with sandy-sod soil and kept at room temperature. Due to their small size, when sowing, the seeds are buried only 0.5 cm.

When sprouts appear in the container, they will need to be regularly sprayed and sheltered from the bright sun. By the second half of June, when the seedlings have 3-4 true leaves, they are moved into open ground, keeping them in a greenhouse for some time. Such actinidia begin to bloom at 3-5 years of age. Having determined the gender of the plants, they can be transplanted to a permanent growing place.

Diseases and pests of actinidia

Diseases

Actinidia staunchly resists various diseases and, subject to all the rules of care, does not cause problems for gardeners.

Sometimes liana can be affected by fungal infections (powdery mildew, phyllosticosis, etc.), when they develop, spots form on the leaves of the bush. The argut species is considered to be more prone to gray and green mold, as well as fruit rot. All affected parts of the bush must be removed. For prophylaxis, the bush itself with the appearance of buds should be sprayed with Bordeaux liquid (1% solution), and after a couple of weeks, repeat the treatment. Spraying with soda ash (0.5% solution) will help against powdery mildew, repeating the procedure after 10 days.

If in spring the young foliage and buds turned black, the cause was recurrent frosts. After this, new foliage should begin to develop from the dormant buds. To prevent the possibility of freezing, plants should be planted on the south or west side of the buildings. Young bushes are sheltered at the risk of frost, but flowering plants during the day must be freed for pollination.

The presence of white or pink spots on the foliage is not a symptom of the disease, but the natural color of some types of actinidia.

Pests

In spring, the buds of actinidia can eat the larvae of leaf beetles. In this case, only veins remain from the leaves. Sometimes on the bushes the caterpillars of the raisin moth settle, due to which large holes appear on the leaf blades. Lacewing and bark beetles are also capable of harming plants. So that uninvited insects do not appear on the liana, in the spring the bush and the area adjacent to it are treated with a solution of Bordeaux liquid. Such treatment will help get rid of pests and harmful bacteria that have hibernated next to the plant. In autumn, the treatment is repeated so that insects or pathogens do not settle on the bushes before the cold weather.

Actinidia has other, very unusual pests. The smell of plants has been proven to attract cats in much the same way as valerian. The reason for this is the substances contained in actinidium juice. Cats are especially fond of the polygamous species. Sometimes animals completely destroy young growth, gnawing fragile stems and roots for the sake of the juice they contain. Adult bushes with stiff shoots are much less likely to suffer from such attacks. So that animals do not damage the young liana, the first years after planting it is surrounded by a metal mesh with a height of at least half a meter, digging it in to a 5-centimeter depth. The same applies to rooting cuttings and seedlings. It is possible to construct a direct barrel guard from hoses cut along the length, fastened with a wire or other similar obstacle. The creation of "lines of defense" also helps: planting or laying out in a near-trunk circle or near ridges with young plants of fragrant herbs or thorny branches.

Actinidia varieties with photos and descriptions

Many species are included in the genus actinidia, but in horticulture, three are most often found: arguta, colomicta and actinidia purpurea. It is noteworthy that it is the actinidia berries that the inhabitants of the Far East call the word "kishmish". Interspecific plants are also popular: polygamous, hybrid and Giralda, as well as their numerous varieties. Chinese actinidia, the cultivated forms of which produce kiwi fruits weighing 70 g or more, is considered more thermophilic and is most often grown in the subtropics.

Actinidia arguta

The largest of the cultivated actinidia. Actinidia arguta lives in the Far East region, growing up to 25-30 m in height. At the same time, the thickness of its trunk reaches 18 cm. The egg-shaped foliage has a pointed tip, and its length is about 15 cm. There are small denticles along the edge of the leaf plate. Flowers are arranged singly or grow in tassels. They are white in color, and their size is about 2 cm. Ball-shaped fruits are dark green in color. They are edible, can vary in flavor and often resemble figs, but may have a slight laxative effect. Each fruit is about 3 cm in diameter, and its weight reaches 6 g. Harvested by the end of September. Among the main varieties:

• Self-fertile - a frost-resistant late ripening variety that bears harvest in the second half of September. The fragrant fruits resembling an elongated cylinder have a bright green color and a weight of about 18 g. Up to 12 kg can be harvested from one bush.
• Primorskaya - this variety needs a male pollinator. It has medium frost resistance, but at the same time it is resistant to pests and diseases. The foliage is medium in size and smooth and soft to the touch. The berries are olive-colored, weigh about 7 g and have a delicious delicate pulp with an apple flavor.
• Large-fruited - the variety is resistant to frost and drought. Fruits weighing up to 18 g have a greenish-ruddy color and a length of up to 2 cm. They ripen in the middle. The pulp has a honey flavor and a faint aroma.
• Golden braid - the fruits have an apple aroma and are colored amber-greenish.
• Ilona - has medium-sized cylindrical fruits with a pleasant fruity aroma.
• Lunar - the variety is notable for its high winter hardiness, ripens in September.
• Mikhnevskaya - the fruits ripen by the end of September and are distinguished by high taste characteristics.
• Relay race - a self-fertile winter-hardy variety, yields a harvest in mid-September, fruits are large, similar to kiwi.

Actinidia kolomikta (Actinidia kolomikta)

The species is notable for its frost resistance. The height of Actinidia kolomikta reaches 10 m, and the thickness of its trunk is up to 2-5 cm. The ovoid leaves are about 12 cm long, they have a serrated edge, and reddish pubescence on the veins. Each leaf rests on a reddish petiole. Representatives of the species are distinguished by a variegated and variable color: from bronze, their leaves turn green, in the middle of summer the tops turn white, then turn pink, and later acquire a crimson hue. In autumn, the foliage becomes yellow, pink or reddish purple. This effect is especially pronounced in vines growing in an open place. Flowering occurs in June. On male bushes, fragrant flowers grow in tassels, and on female ones - one by one. Edible fruits ripen in August. They are up to 2.5 cm long, and in the sun they can acquire a reddish or bronze tint. Main varieties:

• Pineapple Is a fast-growing variety, considered one of the most productive. Fruits are oval, up to 3 cm long. Their color is red-green, and they taste a little like pineapple.
• Dr. Shimanovsky - variegated winter-hardy variety. The fruits are green in color, their length reaches 2.5 cm, and the weight is about 3 g. The taste of the fruits is sour-sweet, and their aroma simultaneously resembles pineapple and apple.
• Gourmet - a relatively young variety, ripening in medium terms. Forms large fruits about 3 cm long and weighing up to 5.5 g. Their taste also has pineapple notes.
• Waffle - the fruits are colored in shades of olive and fall from the branches when overripe. The taste has banana notes.
• Moma - brownish-green fruits have a sweet taste and pineapple smell.
• Festive - a self-fertile variety with medium-sized sweet fruits.
• Backyard - dark olive fruits have a balanced sweet and sour taste. The harvest is removed in late summer - early autumn.
• Sweetheart - the fruits of this variety resemble gooseberries, they have a marmalade aroma and a sweet taste.

Actinidia polygama (Actinidia polygama)

Liana up to 5 m tall with a 2-centimeter trunk thickness. Actinidia polygama outwardly resembles the species of kolomikt and is considered very decorative. Its foliage has an oblong shape, a sharp point at the top and a serrated edge. There are also silvery specks on the leaves. In autumn, the green color of the crown changes to yellow. Flowers are arranged singly, they are painted white and can be either dioecious or bisexual. The weight of edible fruits is about 3 g. When ripe, they can be colored in shades of orange. Their taste is slightly inferior to other actinidia berries, they also contain less vitamin C. In Japan (where the plant is known as "matatabi") they are used as a seasoning and a component of pickles and marinades. Herbal teas are prepared from dried foliage. The most common varieties:

• Apricot - a late fruiting variety with an average degree of frost resistance, but well resistant to pests and diseases. These plants require a male liana. The fruits are flattened on the sides, their length reaches 3.5 cm, and the weight is 6 g. They taste sweet and sour, and smell like balm.
• Beauty - the variety is notable for its resistance to pests and diseases, and is also not afraid of frost. Fruits are yellow-green, fragrant, up to 3.5 g in weight. The flesh tastes slightly sour.
• Patterned - late-harvesting variety, forms orange-colored cylindrical fruits with barely noticeable longitudinal stripes. The fruit tastes spicy and figs.

Actinidia giraldii (Actinidia giraldii)

In some classifications, such actinidia is referred to as an argut, but its fruits are larger and are considered sweeter. Actinidia giraldii almost never occurs in nature and is considered the Red Book, but in culture it is quite popular. Among its varieties:

• Alevtina - forms fruit in the form of a barrel, compressed at the sides. Their weight reaches 15 g, they taste sweet and smell like apple and pineapple.
• Juliana - a late ripening variety with fruits weighing about 17 g. In addition to pineapple and apple, the pulp has strawberry notes and is sweet in taste.
• Native - another late variety with blunted barrel-shaped fruits up to 10 g in weight. The pulp smells strongly of pineapple.

Actinidia purpurea

Large Chinese view. Actinidia purpurea grows best in the shade, it blooms luxuriantly and produces high yields. The fruits are large and purple in color, which gives the species its name. They taste very sweet. The main disadvantage of such plants is low frost resistance. The main variety of this actinidia is Purple Sadovaya. It has fruits of a dark burgundy color about 2.5 cm long and weighing up to 5.5 g. The pulp has a marmalade consistency and aroma.

Actinidia hybrid

Hybrid forms of actinidia appeared thanks to the selection work of the scientists Shaitan and Kolbasina, who crossed the purple species with the kind of argut. The resulting varieties were distinguished by high frost resistance and larger fruits with good taste. The yield of the hybrids also inherited from the actinidia purpurea. Among these varieties:

• Kievskaya Large-fruited - a late harvest variety, forms large oval fruits of green color and weighing up to 10 g. They have a delicate and sweet flesh.
• Candy - a late variety with oval green fruits of a slightly smaller size (up to 8 g). The aroma of the pulp is candy-fruity.
• Souvenir - reddish-green fruits weigh up to 8 g. Their aroma includes notes of caramel, fruits and figs.
• Hybrid Sausage - Forms especially large fruits up to 16 g, having a reddish-green color and a sweet candy taste.
• Kiev hybrid-10 - large oval fruits are green in color, weigh up to 9-10 g and have a delicate sweetish taste.

Properties and uses of actinidia

Ripe actinidia fruits include a number of useful elements: fiber, carotene, starch and sugars, as well as vitamins, pectin, various acids, mineral salts and many other compounds useful for the body.In terms of vitamin C content, actinidia is similar to rose hips, surpassing other common fruits and berries, including lemons and black currants. At the same time, actinidia berries retain their benefits even after processing. Their seeds are rich in fatty oils, as well as vitamins A and P.

The fruits of actinidia are recommended to be used for certain gastrointestinal diseases and colitis, they help to cope with pulmonary diseases, treat vitamin deficiency and caries. Also, their composition can assist in the treatment of rheumatism and lumbago, scurvy and gonorrhea.

Not only the fruits of actinidia are rich in useful elements. The bark of the vine includes glycosides, important for cardiac activity, as well as tannins. This composition provides her with a calming and strengthening effect. The bark is used in means for expectoration, in addition, on its basis, drugs are prepared to stop the blood. Parts of the vine can be used to treat heartburn and belching, for laxatives, and for general digestion.

Actinidia is the main component of the Japanese herbal preparation "Polygamol". It helps to strengthen the body, improve cardiac activity, and has a diuretic effect. Actinidia tincture helps with angina pectoris. A decoction and infusion of its roots are used as an external remedy against sciatica and joint pain. The juice and peel of the fruit is used as an appetite-enhancing agent and helps in wound healing. Actinidia can also help get rid of parasites and can be used as a healing agent and massage ointment.

Contraindications

Actinidia has no serious contraindications, but it should not overeat. Overeating can lead to intestinal upset. In addition, in some diseases with fruits, you need to be careful. Actinidia is not recommended for people with increased blood clotting, as well as varicose veins and thrombophlebitis.

Recipes

There are many recipes for both actinidia dishes (compotes, jams, drinks, etc.), and useful remedies based on its fruits:

• Fruit infusion. The dried fruits are placed in water and boiled for an hour over low heat. After cooling, the infusion is filtered. Such a remedy helps to prevent cancer, it should be consumed in small doses after meals.
• Berry ointment. This remedy helps well to recover from fractures, and is also used for massage. Fresh fruits are ground, mixed with crushed mustard seeds and a fatty base is added (lard is suitable).
• Decoction of the bark. Promotes the restoration of metabolism. 20 g of bark is pounded properly, a glass of boiling water is poured into it and kept in a water bath for half an hour. After cooling, the infusion is filtered, and then consumed in 2-3 tbsp. spoons a day.
• Infusion of flowers and foliage. Such a drug helps with rheumatism or angina pectoris. 20 g of crushed leaves and flowers are poured into a glass of boiling water and kept in a water bath for 15 minutes. The cooled mixture is filtered, it should be drunk three times a day, 1/3 cup.